Front struts

[Dave L]

I am overhauling my front suspension and tonight I have got the front struts apart and tomorrow will install the new ones. I have a few questions that hopefully someone can answer.

I believe that if the new strut does not touch the bottom of the tube when tightened i should use shims too make up the difference,is this correct. ?

How much oil should go back in the tube ?

What type of oil should go in the tube ?

Thanks

Dave L

[stoutgoose]

imported post

Hi Dave,

some inserts touch the tube bottoms, others don't, so it's a case of trying them first and if you can feel them moving around and the thread had gone all the way into the top of the tube, then you will need to pack out with some large washers, maybe 2 or 3 each side until the thread is level with the top of the tube when fully tightened.

You don't need to use oil these days as the new inserts are sealed units.

[DJT]

imported post

stoutgoose wrote:

Hi Dave,

some inserts touch the tube bottoms, others don't, so it's a case of trying them first and if you can feel them moving around and the thread had gone all the way into the top of the tube, then you will need to pack out with some large washers, maybe 2 or 3 each side until the thread is level with the top of the tube when fully tightened.

You don't need to use oil these days as the new inserts are sealed units.

There are also some that are too long. I fitted some (KYB)a few years ago that had an upside-down cup shape welded to the bottom. This prevented the threaded collar from screwing in at all. Contacted the manufacturers and they advised me to cut off the cup with a hacksaw. Did this and they fitted fine. Don't know if these are still the same.

Dave

[Sheepdip]

imported post

Got me thinkingas I replaced mine last week and they screwed in a little further than flush, just left them like it! Steering feels fine, in fact better than before. I also replaced the top bearings although the old ones were ok.

However recall the top self locking nut doesn't have any thread showing through the end, its on ok tho, just relying on a smidegon of selflockingness.Has anyone else come across this?

paul

[Dave L]

imported post

Great tips, thanks

Dave L

[Dave L]

imported post

Hi Paul

I have that situation on my other Stag and it was like that when I bought it. I'm sure that it cannot be correct and need to figure out why.

Dave L

[Sheepdip]

imported post

Hi Dave. Over lunch I thought about the fact that my locking rings were now below the surface but reckon the only impact could be the top mounting rubber could rub on the top of the strut,howeverit turned freely when assembled, but I make take one apart again and look.

re the nut, the original was castellated and thus thinner, even so there wouldn't be a lot of extra meat there. As everthing turned easily without play I can only conclude teh threaded section is slightly shorter. I have the old struts at home and coincidentally a new set for return (didn't realise I had some when I bought more) so I'll check them tonight.

Paul

[Sheepdip]

imported post

ps - re shimming the strut inner, the bottom of my strut inners were dished and I have a feeling the strut outer was as well, which would make sense otherwise the bottom couldmove in the outer. If thats the case then shimming the bottom would remove this mating surface allowing it to move?

[Stagdad]

imported post

Sheepdip wrote:

However recall the top self locking nut doesn't have any thread showing through the end, its on ok tho, just relying on a smidegon of selflockingness.Has anyone else come across this?

paul

Yes Paul

,I fitted some Spax and the nylock of the nut was only just starting to bite so i threadlocked them like you.

I would have used the old castle nut but you cant as the ajusters run up the centre of the shaft.

Cheers Steve

[Sheepdip]

imported post

Reassuring - thanks Steve