Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

loss of revs after run

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    loss of revs after run

    I went on the wessex and new forest run last week and all was well until we stopped for refreshments after 40 miles. On returning to the stag after about one hour it started but the revs were very poor and only just able to pull away. On pulling over the engine idled ok so tried to rev it and smoke appeared to the rear ( quite a lot). Eventually the revs picked up and was able to continue and was running ok until came to a t-junction and the same thing occurred. After high revs and smoke it cleared again. This happened again today, Have no problem starting and it seams to tick over ok, any sugestions?

    #2
    imported post

    Sounds like a float needle valve sticking open and flooding one carb, hence the smoke - happened on mine a couple of months ago - 2 new needle valves from LD parts and all was well again...........


    You could also make sure you haven't got a hole in a carb diaphragm

    Russ:dude:

    Comment


      #3
      imported post

      kryten wrote:
      Sounds like a float needle valve sticking open and flooding one carb, hence the smoke - happened on mine a couple of months ago - 2 new needle valves from LD parts and all was well again...........

      Russ:dude:
      Hiya Russ, I've had a great deal of trouble with faulty new needle valves, even the soft tipped ones from Burlen, at the mo, I'm running on the fourth pair in three years, have you had any trouble at all with the ones from LD ? Martin. PS sorry to wander off thread.

      Comment


        #4
        imported post

        Not so far Martin - I particularly waited until Peter had some back in stock because of other people stories of woe - if you are having grief, I assume your floats are the right way up? They can go in upside down and look OK but the float will stick.....

        If you look at the picture in the ROM and make sure yours are that way up........ and I run 2 fuel filters - one in between the tank and pump coz my tank strainer is missing and the usual underbonnet one

        Russ:dude:

        Comment


          #5
          imported post

          kryten wrote:
          Not so far Martin - I particularly waited until Peter had some back in stock because of other people stories of woe - if you are having grief, I assume your floats are the right way up? They can go in upside down and look OK but the float will stick.....

          If you look at the picture in the ROM and make sure yours are that way up........ and I run 2 fuel filters - one in between the tank and pump coz my tank strainer is missing and the usual underbonnet one

          Russ:dude:
          All seems to be OK at the moment, but I'm not optomistic, so LD it is when these ones play games. The floats are the right way up, though I know what you mean, and I've introduced a washable filter between tank and pump. I also only buy good quality underbonnet filters, the cheap ones start to disolve and block the needle valves with bits of cardboard. Martin.

          Comment


            #6
            imported post

            Thanks for the advice on the needle valves and have replaced now along with diaophrams and petrol filter. Works fine but after a 40 mile run and a stop for petrol it seems to not like quick accelaration but is ok if throttle is used slowly. Any ideas??

            Comment


              #7
              imported post

              From the symptoms you describe Iwould suspect your coil. It sits in the vee above the engine block and can get very hot. Becausethe coilis a solid lump and the actual coil inside is immersed in oil it takes a long time to get really hot - i.e. 40 miles and a bit of a rest. Then when you start again it starts to break down internally. You only notice it under acceleration because the richer mixture makes life more difficult for the spark plugs and a higher voltage is required to make the spark, its at this point the coil says enough and instead of supplying volts to the spark plug it arcs inside. As soon as you lift your foot off, the mixture weekens, voltages fall, and normal operation is resumed.

              Check to make sure your coil is not mounted too low in the bracket and actually resting on top of the engine block. Lift it up as high as the bracket will allow. This should stop it getting so hot - but if it is the coil then the problem will get worse - so this is only a temporary measure. If you can borrow a coil you can temperarily bolt it to the right hand carbelbow and then when the symptoms reappear simply swap over the three wires and try it. If the symptoms clear then get a new coil.

              Hope this helps.

              Roger
              Now Stagless but have numerous car projects
              So many cars, so little time!

              Comment


                #8
                imported post

                Thanks for the sugestion Roger and have now replaced the coil to be absolutlly sure. Symptoms still pursist though, Could it be the mixture?

                Comment


                  #9
                  imported post

                  have now replaced ballast resister and every thing s ok.

                  Comment

                  canli bahis siteleri bahis siteleri ecebet.net
                  Chad fucks Amara Romanis ass on his top ?????????????? ???? ?????? ?????? ? ??????? fotos de hombres mostrando el pene
                  güvenilir bahis siteleri
                  Working...
                  X