screeching auto 35

[stagman444]

Hi can anybody tel me how to check if torque conv. is making horrible noise or its from auto gearbox? Scree ching is on start up and remains whole time engine is running, i have now removed gearbox but left torque conv. and bell housing in situ,refilled engine with engine oil and run car to see if i could hear noise ,but car is so loud without exhausts i am not sure weather noise is still there or not !! help some one,Ken:X

[loudnproud]

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Hi Ken can you provide some more imformation to give us more idea,

what colour was oil you drained from gearbox?

how did car drive, slipping when changing gear?

clunky changes?

when did it start to screech?

not to sure if torque converter will be any good if you filled it with 20/50 engine oil

Peter

[stagman444]

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Hi Peter car never drove,been rebuilding stag for 4 years or more, refitted gearbox that came with car (fitted to 2.5 strait six)to stag engine that was overhauled changed bell housing and torque conv, installed in car and terrible screecing from bell housing area on start up !!When i drained oil from gear box it looked fine ,nice and red smelt ok too

[loudnproud]

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Not sure about this but did you line the gearbox and torque converter up properly, I am pretty sure the gearbox oil pump is at the front of the box and is turned by the torque converter if this is not located properly it could cause screeching. I was told by an auto gearbox specialist to fit the torque converter to gearbox first. Have a look at end of converter and see if there has been any rubbing marks also look in gearbox end use a torch to see if there are any rubbing marks there.

Peter

[GDPR]

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You wouldn't hear a converter fault with the box off anyway, although if you could it would only be a knocking sound as the stator is not located and is being thrashed about (so if it wasn't the converter before, it is now!) - odds are that the front pump had been damaged by the converter not being engaged correctly during refitment as just mentioned or possibly the converter's stator unidirectional clutch is cattled - the way they suggest doing it in the ROM is very dangerous and extremely bad practice - ask any auto specialist - I never seperate the converter from the box by leaving the converter bolted up unless the whole shebang is going away for exchange, and would never, never, fit the converter and offer the box up as suggested in any other than a workshop environment, standing underneath with a 4 post lift, a transmission jack and cradle, and 3 blokes (2 for the box and one to turn the crank.

Take them both out (box and converter), chuck them in the skip (or have them rebuilt) and buy a known good box with converter, fit and forget (but with the converter pre-fitted to the box).

Russ

[stagman444]

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How do you fit the bell housing / torque conv.to engine (if engine is still in situ) with it conected to gearbox, i dont see how you can get to bolts unless engine is out

[loudnproud]

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It is possible to fit it all up at once, the engine needs to be tilted well back to enable bolts to fit bell housing to engine and the torque converter is attached to the flywheel through the starter motor hole, I would try to bolt it all together again and see what happens you may be lucky and get away with it worse case is you will need a new box and torque converter, I wish you luck.
Peter

[GDPR]

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The engine WILL tip back enough to facilitate this - it is a little bit more of a struggle but it can be done.

You may have to buy some decent tools though, especially 3/8" drive stuff with long extension bars (2 foot long 3/8 ext bars are very useful as you can run the ext and socket over the top of the gearbox and have the ratchet in free space behind the tailcase) - I'm spoiled as I still have all mine from 20+ years of the motor trade, and I have air tools available to me at home.

[marshman]

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Russ,

When you tip the engine back to remove the 'box and conveter how much stuff do you have to disconnect from the engine to allow it to tilt far enough?

Do do you have to support the engine in anyway or is it OK to let it rest against the cross-member etc?

Finally, can you get away with 1/2" drive extensions or is the space too tight above the box. I only have 1/4" for small stuff and everything else is 1/2"

Thanks

Roger

[GDPR]

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I've not tried it with 1/2 stuff to be honest, but I expect it is - it is length that is most important (or so the wife tells me).......

It's so far been ok to let it rest on the Xmember but it may chip the paint if you are being precious - stick a bit of cardboard as a buffer.

[Kevin Garrod]

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If it helps I managed to get my (BW65) box out with just a basic socket set and spanners, it is fiddly and another pair of hands would have made it a lot easier.

Disconnect the battery, exhaust and coolant hoses and the engine will tip back safely.

[marshman]

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Thanks Russ.

Ialways thought it was quality not quantity - thats what I tell my wife

Roger

[loudnproud]

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If I remember correctly the radiator will have to come out the brake pipe clipped to front crossmember needs to be moved as well, once you have most off the bolts back in round the bottom of bell housing you can raise the gearbox up and fit the top bell housing bolts from above, engine will rest on cross member ok and you should be ok with 1/2" sockets just a fiddley job.

Peter

[GDPR]

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marshman wrote:

Thanks Russ.

Ialways thought it was quality not quantity - thats what I tell my wife

Roger

I can manage a quantiity of quality

[DJT]

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kryten wrote:

It's so far been ok to let it rest on the Xmember but it may chip the paint if you are being precious - stick a bit of cardboard as a buffer.

Don't forget that there is a brake pipe running along the rear of the crossmember. Unclip it and pull it down so that it doesn't get trapped between the sump and crossmember.

Dave