Well' finally the beasthas risen from the ashes, but my god it smokes alot, it does tick over but once its reve'd it spews great grey clouds of smoke. It is drivable buts does not pull particularly well, it reallysounds like its struggling to clear its lungs. I thought it was at first the vacume advance on the dissy as sucking on it it did not move. So I changed it for a new unit from rimmer bros yet it was exactly the same. My mate has said it could be the carbs and for £240 get them overhauled "wow" yet stillfeel that deep down its the dissy. Where do I go now?
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Hi Mick
Have you got electronic ignition?
Have you check the timing?
I would suggest your problem most likely lies with the carbs, it is easy to rebuild to carbs just buy a kit from LD parts or Paddocks and adjust the mixture correctly and your problem should go away.
This only applies if the smoke you have describe is rich mixture smoke and not 'oil smoke' which could be caused by valve train wear or piston ring wear.
Good Luck with the problem.
Stuart
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Its not electronic unfortunately, I secretly was hoping that you'd say the distributer.
Ok if it the carbs then to be honestthe basic overhaul would be something I could do myself butits the tuning up afterwards, is it a simple thing to do?
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If it was carbs (too rich) you would get black smoke. Grey (blue) smoke surely means oil burning!
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Its definately not black or blue, its plumes of grey smoke and the whole place smells of unburnt fuel.
mick
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Maybe the points need adjusting? The first time I did mine I didn't get the gaps quite right. It idled ok, but when I took it for a run, max revs was about 2000 rpm!
Regards
Dave
http://www.stagwiki.com | http://parts.stagwiki.com (Under Development)Comment
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OK, if you think its over-fuelling then check the float operation and needle valves. That is the most common problem. When you switch on the ignition does the fuel keep flowing (pump ticking)? If yes, then the needle valves/float system is not working; possibly crud in the float chambers.
No need to worry about re-tuning at this stage; just find the main fault and fix it first.
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When its running and warmed up just remove the oil filler and see if it is "breathing" heavily - is there a lot of crank case pressure. (check by putting your hand over the filler hole - there should not be much more than a very lightbreath of fumes. If its puffing hard with visible fumes coming out then your bores/rings are shot.If not then I would - in this order check the folllowing:
Valve clearances
Points gap
Static Ignition Timing
then get it up to working temp and set the carbs up - Balance first then mixture.
Somewhere you will come across something that won't be right. If its not breatheing too heavily then I don't think its an oil burning problem unless your valve guides are shot.
Roger
Now Stagless but have numerous car projects
So many cars, so little time!Comment
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mickjo wrote:Hiya, it does sound like over fuelling, the chances are that the float levels are too high, and / or one or both of thethe needle valves are sticking, while you're changing them, it's woth replacing the diaghrams and floats, none of this is expensive, and relatively easy to do. If you haven't got one, buy a carb balancer, it pays for itself the first time you use it, and the mixture adjusting tool. The tuning procedure is well described in the Haynes manual believe it or not, and if you follow it to the letter it will work for you. Very satisfying.Its not electronic unfortunately, I secretly was hoping that you'd say the distributer.
Ok if it the carbs then to be honestthe basic overhaul would be something I could do myself butits the tuning up afterwards, is it a simple thing to do?
Martin.
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A holed carb diaphragm will have the same effect - one carb piston won't rise correctly but the other carb is forcing the revs up, so the engine tries to breathe through the crankcase breather pipes on the "dead" carb - loads of smoke and no go......
Just an observation....
Russ:dude:
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O.k. looks like I'll need to check the carbs and rebuild and set up. Seems that there are no quick fixes here, the old girl deserves a bit of time and effort in the carbs. Still going to look at the dissy as well though. Let you know what I've found. Will heat up the car and check the various things you've all suggested. Thanks
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A quick way of finding out about diaphragms and/or siezed or bent dampers is to unscrew both carb dampers but leave them in - when you rev the car up you will be able to see if they rise by the same amount and are able to stay up when the throttle is open. Also if it is a damper fault the car should rev more readily, admittedly with an initial flat spot (assuming it's warm).
The one carb where the damper doesn't rise will need the attention
Not definitive but a good quick check
Russ:dude:
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Ok. superb I shall try that this morning
I've had a call from a mate who has a set of carbs for a Stag for £30 and has said that they were overhauled and calibrated a couple of years ago but not used since, million dollar question here, is there a rough time limit for these being ok? I would of thought 1 year on the shelf would be ok but 2 years would be pushing it.
Mick
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If they've been nicely stored in a dry place they'll be good for a few years
Russ:dude:
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Well unscrewed the tops of the damper on each of the carb, both rose fairly well together. So then removed the air inlet elbows etc as per manual. So using a hose could tell that the LHS carb was sucking in more air than the other that was balanced and set the linkage lengths. All just tickerty boo. But (as per 'Mixture-check and adjust, part19) indicates its Weak, adjust with tool S353, who has one of those! Frustrating!!
Just ran out of fuel on the driveway luckily yet put 10 litres of fuel in only a lot of starts on the drive/garage and about 3 miles on the road.
Answer to an earlier question:- The fuel pump also eventually stops pumping if the ignition switch is left on without starting.
Just noticed that at tick over its a bit grey smoky but if you rev it abit harder theres blue and grey smoke and indication of oil at the exhaust pipes. If you look at my previous posts that the engine is Tappety but comes from round about the 6th pot LHS which is apparently fairly common of its hydraulic tappets. Cant help feeling if its burning oil and noisy I need an expensive rebuild./replacement.
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