Overheating?

[singapore stag]

Hi All, I think I have a problem and require your expertise.....

I have flushed out the cooling system(twice now) last time did not drain the block on the near side. New coolant put in 35 % mixed with ionised water.new 20/50 oil from halfords( all done yesterday)

Volvo header tank fitted to modified rad 2 months ago( thermoswitch, drain plug, outlet fitted near neck for top of Volvo header tank, lower outlet fitted for bottom of header tank), kenlowe wired to thermo switch ( which is locatednear top of n/s on rad) switch opens at 90 Degrees.

I have checked whether head gasket is blown by taking out spark plugs and cranking engine, no water spitting out, no air bubbles in header tank, oil ok not milky at filler plug.

My problem now is yesterdaythe temp needle was over the3/4 mark on the dial, today I fitted in new thermal switch,new stat,new gasket, Kenlowe kicks in as it should. but i did notice when changing thermal transmitter that the old red coolant came out of the head:?,.....waited until the new blue coolant flowed out then put in the new thermal switch now tempjust over half way, only because kenlowe kicks in. this evening after the test run the temp was over thehalf way mark, when i parked up after switching off the engine I left the ignition on and the temp slowly raised up to near the red....

What else can I do to?,......Your views will bemuch appreciated.

[Greenstag]

imported post

Sukh

Despite your flushing I would probably suspect the radiator ... how old is it. Next time you get the car up to temperature, turn the engine off and put your hand flat on the radiator panel. Feel the difference between the top of the rad and the bottom. If it's hot at the top and cool at the bottom (correct me if I'm wrong here experts) you've got a clogged up rad.

[singapore stag]

imported post

Oh, but it was flow tested when I had the mods done recently, nevertheless i will feel the top and bottom tomorrow after a test run.

[Stagdad]

imported post

If you had Red OAT antifreeze in the system and then add Blue or green antifreeze even if you flush it first the residue can form a gel.I think i'm right in saying that if you have red OAT in it you have to stick with that.

See this post

http://stagownersclub.mywowbb.com/vi...;highlight=oat

Cheers Steve

[V8 Rumbler]

imported post

singapore stag wrote:

Oh, but it was flow tested when I had the mods done recently, nevertheless i will feel the top and bottom tomorrow after a test run.

Sukh
You have made sure there is no air in the system haven't you?
Darren

[RogerP]

imported post

singapore stag wrote:

Hi All, I think I have a problem and require your expertise.....

I have flushed out the cooling system(twice now) last time did not drain the block on the near side. New coolant put in 35 % mixed with ionised water.new 20/50 oil from halfords( all done yesterday)

Volvo header tank fitted to modified rad 2 months ago( thermoswitch, drain plug, outlet fitted near neck for top of Volvo header tank, lower outlet fitted for bottom of header tank), kenlowe wired to thermo switch ( which is locatednear top of n/s on rad) switch opens at 90 Degrees.

I have checked whether head gasket is blown by taking out spark plugs and cranking engine, no water spitting out, no air bubbles in header tank, oil ok not milky at filler plug.

My problem now is yesterdaythe temp needle was over the3/4 mark on the dial, today I fitted in new thermal switch,new stat,new gasket, Kenlowe kicks in as it should. but i did notice when changing thermal transmitter that the old red coolant came out of the head:?,.....waited until the new blue coolant flowed out then put in the new thermal switch now tempjust over half way, only because kenlowe kicks in. this evening after the test run the temp was over thehalf way mark, when i parked up after switching off the engine I left the ignition on and the temp slowly raised up to near the red....

What else can I do to?,......Your views will bemuch appreciated.

Ok two things first have you got an air lock? second when the engine is hot how full is the expansion bottle, if it's to full it will stop the circulation........When you turn the engine off you will get a latent heat build up that is normal......I have got a capillary temp gauge on our car and lets say the gauge is reading 80 deg turn the engine off and within a few minutes it would rise maybe another 10deg....must say don't have that problem anymore.

Roger

[singapore stag]

imported post

V8 Rumbler wrote:

singapore stag wrote:

Oh, but it was flow tested when I had the mods done recently, nevertheless i will feel the top and bottom tomorrow after a test run.

Sukh
You have made sure there is no air in the system haven't you?
Darren

Firstly the red coolant was in for only 3 weeks( money down the drain) only about2 litres flowed out and it was clear ( ran out very fast).

Ihave filled the system as per instructions from the forum i.e jacked up n/s and filled from rad plug slowly,could hear air/bubbling sound coming out, then filled up the header. how can I still make sure though?anything else I shoild do to purge out nay remaining air?

[V8 Rumbler]

imported post

singapore stag wrote:

V8 Rumbler wrote:

singapore stag wrote:

Oh, but it was flow tested when I had the mods done recently, nevertheless i will feel the top and bottom tomorrow after a test run.

Sukh
You have made sure there is no air in the system haven't you?
Darren

Firstly the red coolant was in for only 3 weeks( money down the drain) only about2 litres flowed out and it was clear ( ran out very fast).

Ihave filled the system as per instructions from the forum i.e jacked up n/s and filled from rad plug slowly,could hear air/bubbling sound coming out, then filled up the header. how can I still make sure though?anything else I shoild do to purge out nay remaining air?

check heater is on hot--then repeat the fill process ie: jack up n/s and open the rad plug--probably still air in there
Darren

[RogerP]

imported post

singapore stag wrote:

V8 Rumbler wrote:

singapore stag wrote:

Oh, but it was flow tested when I had the mods done recently, nevertheless i will feel the top and bottom tomorrow after a test run.

Sukh
You have made sure there is no air in the system haven't you?
Darren

Firstly the red coolant was in for only 3 weeks( money down the drain) only about2 litres flowed out and it was clear ( ran out very fast).

Ihave filled the system as per instructions from the forum i.e jacked up n/s and filled from rad plug slowly,could hear air/bubbling sound coming out, then filled up the header. how can I still make sure though?anything else I shoild do to purge out nay remaining air?

The way I've always done it is a bit long winded but have never suffered from air locks....................Make sure the heater valve is open then slowly fill radiator through brass bung on rad to the top.............Thenfill expansion bottle3/4 full put cap back on expansion bottle, but leave top of radiator, now run engine up to temperature' you will probably get air and water coming out making sure you keep the rad full, when your happy it's up to temperature put the bung back in radiator and take the cap of the expansion bottle, then go for a little run say 2 miles, when you get back just make sure the bottle has got plenty of water in a keep an eye on it as it cools down it will go down. I leave it overnight to go completely cold, then empty the bottle to about 1/4 put cap back on top up rad if required.....I believe doing it that way you get rid of all the air and it's more able to suck the water back in.

Roger

[Guest]

imported post

Stagdad wrote:

If you had Red OAT antifreeze in the system and then add Blue or green antifreeze even if you flush it first the residue can form a gel.I think i'm right in saying that if you have red OAT in it you have to stick with that.

See this post

http://stagownersclub.mywowbb.com/vi...;highlight=oat

Cheers Steve

This has been mentioned several times before, to hell with fashion and the latest "upgrade", it's a Stag, it was designed to use Ethelyn Glycol anti-freeze, that's blue to the uninitiated, and people far cleverer than I say it should be binned every 12 months, so what the hell is the point in having a 5 year lifespan ? if you mix blue and the new fashionable day-glo pink/red you get jelly, ever tried blowing jelly through a straw ? difficult ?yes ? well your water pump thinks the same ! you have now completely buggered up you radiator and probably some of the head cooling passages as well, not to mention the heater matrix.There are some folk on here who speak authoritatively without thinking, and others who are too ready to believe them. MAD ? ME ? YES, mad as hell. Martin.

[whereufromnosecity]

imported post

singapore stag wrote:

Hi All, I think I have a problem and require your expertise.....

I have flushed out the cooling system(twice now) last time did not drain the block on the near side. New coolant put in 35 % mixed with ionised water.new 20/50 oil from halfords( all done yesterday)

Volvo header tank fitted to modified rad 2 months ago( thermoswitch, drain plug, outlet fitted near neck for top of Volvo header tank, lower outlet fitted for bottom of header tank), kenlowe wired to thermo switch ( which is locatednear top of n/s on rad) switch opens at 90 Degrees.

I have checked whether head gasket is blown by taking out spark plugs and cranking engine, no water spitting out, no air bubbles in header tank, oil ok not milky at filler plug.

My problem now is yesterdaythe temp needle was over the3/4 mark on the dial, today I fitted in new thermal switch,new stat,new gasket, Kenlowe kicks in as it should. but i did notice when changing thermal transmitter that the old red coolant came out of the head:?,.....waited until the new blue coolant flowed out then put in the new thermal switch now tempjust over half way, only because kenlowe kicks in. this evening after the test run the temp was over thehalf way mark, when i parked up after switching off the engine I left the ignition on and the temp slowly raised up to near the red....

What else can I do to?,......Your views will bemuch appreciated.

Sukh

The temp gauge, as Rodger states will still go up after the engine has stopped due to heat soak, it dues on mine

Check your header tank for level should only fill about half way to leave room for expansion and you shouldn't need to remove the rad filler plug to fill the system as any air will end up in the header tank once the engine is up to temp then just top up again once cool

Do you still have the mechanical fan fitted, and under what driving conditions did the gauge get to the 3/4 mark

If when driving at a steady 40mph say and your gauge stays at the half way mark the cooling system IMHO is working as it should,If itonly raises when stationary I think your problem lies with the set up of theelectric fan and switch

This is because if you have a 90 degreeopening tempswitch this goes on the temp of the water in the rad not the engine which will be slightly higher under different driving conditionsas thegauge temp sensoris fittedat the back of the head

So when travelling because with the ram air effect on the rad and the pump spinning at high revs you should get a nice constant flow and temp of coolant running through the system, on mine with pretty much the same set up as you my capillary gauge holds steady at around the 80 degree mark

It's when stationary or low revsyou get the temp difference due to no ram air effects and a slower flow of coolant in the system hence why the temp will always rise, i have a 92 degree temp switch fitted and when the fan kicks in my gauge reads about 100 degrees then it starts to drop and holds steady at 95ish, but my fan doesn't turn off it keeps going.

I'm still fine tuning my cooling system and over the weekend I'm going to fit an 85 degree temp and a new 16" fan (cheap 14" fan fitted at the mo) so hopefully i will end up with the fan kicking earlier and it will be able to move enoughair through the rad to cool the water so it kicks out again like on a modern car

I will PM you my phone number if you want a chat about it, not the easiest thing to explain in words and at 2 in the morning

[RogerP]

imported post

Martin Stevenson wrote:

This has been mentioned several times before, to hell with fashion and the latest "upgrade", it's a Stag, it was designed to use Ethelyn Glycol anti-freeze, that's blue to the uninitiated, and people far cleverer than I say it should be binned every 12 months, so what the hell is the point in having a 5 year lifespan ? if you mix blue and the new fashionable day-glo pink/red you get jelly, ever tried blowing jelly through a straw ? difficult ?yes ? well your water pump thinks the same ! you have now completely buggered up you radiator and probably some of the head cooling passages as well, not to mention the heater matrix.There are some folk on here who speak authoritatively without thinking, and others who are too ready to believe them. MAD ? ME ? YES, mad as hell. Martin.

Steady on Martin.........................Think of your blood pressure.

Roger

[singapore stag]

imported post

Regarding martins reply....the silicate levels have been lowered so the chance of precipitation has neen lowered accordingly, in my case the radiator, heater matrix, heads are all ok no sludge detected, IMHO if you were to mix bucket loadsof both types of antifreeze the sludging will still be to a minimum ( not enough to clog ).It would have read different if the silicate levels were not lowered.........

To Stu E, I think i am being a bit too cautious regarding the overheating,Ilet the stag idle for a goodwhile before taking it for a run the temp did stay in the normal range dropped after the ram air took over and only raised when idling or stopped in traffic. I will make sure ther is no air lock and will be fitting a 85 thermo switch also voltage regulator after work. Will ring you with results.

[GDPR]

imported post

Mine did this until I fitted a decent Kenlowe switch and a TR6 front spoiler that increases airflow through the rad core hugely - absolutely no problems now.

My temp would head for the red at anything over 60mph - it was purely an airflow issue.

Get the glass fibre jobbie from Paddocks for £45 and cut the flange to fit.

[singapore stag]

imported post

kryten wrote:

Mine did this until I fitted a decent Kenlowe switch and a TR6 front spoiler that increases airflow through the rad core hugely - absolutely no problems now.

My temp would head for the red at anything over 60mph - it was purely an airflow issue.

Get the glass fibre jobbie from Paddocks for £45 and cut the flange to fit.

Hi, anymore info on fitting, an easy DIY ?( cutting flange)