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Got the car on the road last year, ran around the country in all weather, replacedand upgraded timing system,springs, suspension etc (great results and highly recommended), new upgraded radand was full of confidence this weekend that the oldguy would do me proudwhen i got him out for a little run around. I think you know whats coming!
The engine is running like a bag of spanners! I gave it the chance of an 'Italian Tune Up' thinking it would blow all the 'stuff' out of the engine. Didn't work!
I am therefore looking for advice and comments.
Yesterday I spent the day doing the following'
1) removed airfillter and checked running condition - slight improvement but no cigar.
2) removed all plugs and checked spark - strong and bright.
3) checked compression ratings, (desperate thinking and all that) - all within 10% of each other and around the 130psi mark.
4) Fitted spare coil - no difference.
5) Checked fuel line and supply - 'A' OK.
6) Got soaked to within an inch of my belly button, 'Fecked off', and even agreed with my wife that Melvin is on Borrowed time.
Has anybody any guidance or items to look for.
The car is fitted with new luminition unit, leads and triple pronged Bosch plugs. Ithas been running like a porn star on Viagra, but is know running as if suffering with swine fever and erectile disfunctionality. When the engine revs it feels and sound like it is out of ballance and has a chesty weaze.
It doesn't feel like it for the following reasons,
1) when reved it rocks from side to side as if it is out of balance. Never had this before.
2) the engine noise is not the normal smooth gurgle.
This is why i checked all the plugs and compression rates thinking it is maybe misfiring or missing. The point i did notice when driving was the lack of power and loss of power when going up hill, (engine load increased).
The fuel is fresh V Power. I did put some Tesco's rubbish in before but found VPower to give best performance. Last fill up was approx one moth ago, (6 weeks latest).
I have checked the oil levels in the pots and these are not leaking. If there was a hole would this leak oil?
I am going to check the timing tonight, (weather permitting).
Stan
Stan
The oil level is not connected to the diaphragms, you need to remove the top 4 screws from each carb and lift out the air valve complete with diaphragm. Be careful when replacing the dia/air valve asssy as the diaphragm only goes in one way there is a location tab on the edge of the diaphragm.
I must admit that when i was driving on Saturday i did actualy stop and check that the choke had not stuck on on one side of the carbs, (its prone to doing that), similar symptons i guess.
Had a similar problem with mine last year, found the year old carb diaphragm's were shot, looked like they had dissolved around the edges. Replaced them but problem still persisted. Removed each plug lead one by one with the engine running still no joy as each lead removed changed the runningof the enginebut I did get a jolt from one lead when I removed it. I replaced the lead and problem solved. Lead was breaking down under load but was Ok at tickover.
It doesn't feel like it for the following reasons,
1) when reved it rocks from side to side as if it is out of balance. Never had this before.
2) the engine noise is not the normal smooth gurgle.
This is why i checked all the plugs and compression rates thinking it is maybe misfiring or missing. The point i did notice when driving was the lack of power and loss of power when going up hill, (engine load increased).
Cheers
Stan
Hi Stan
If you are not happy that it is running on all 8 then I wouldremove each plug cap in turn whilst the engine is running to see if it makes any difference. If when removing each one it should make it run slightly worse. If it does then replace the cap and move onto the next one. If one of the cylinders is not running then you will find that removing the cap makes no difference and you will then need to investigate that cylinder.
Make sure you use insulated pliers to remove the leads otherwise you will get a jolt up your arm.
If removing each lead makes it run worse on all 8 then I would check the ignition timing, vacuum advance and if still nothing then the problem is likely to be fuel/carb.
Nigel
Mk2 1976 Delft Blue with Beige Interior. TV8 and ZF 4 Speed
Not being an expert, but previous advice to me is to check the vacuum advance on the distributer, remover the advance pipe from the inlet manifold and suckyou should see the disc inside the distributer moving back and forth. this is apparently is a common fault. See Tony Harts shopon ebay: Vacuum advance unit...
To check the spark plugs and the leads you need one of these from your local motor factor (approx £3) which shows you the strength of the spark without removing the plug!
Sounds like duff leads to me mate or float needle valves on their wayout.
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