Starter

[Andrew S]

I am coming to terms that my click clickmeans that the starter has got to come out as myWard's loom didnt cured the problem. Not a problem but can anyone confirm whether itwould just be the solenoid or could it be thebrushes?

If it were the brushes, I wouldpresume that there wouldnt be a noise at all.I am currently getting a definite click and hearing the solenoid being shot across, but thats it. I presume that there are then perminals that the solenoid would make with to actuate the lever for engagement. If this is the case, then I am presuming also that it is a sealed unit, and therefore nothing I can do.

I notice that Paddocks sell new solenoids

I can definitely hearand feel the solenoid shooting in a direction so is this my problem?

Cheers

Andrew

[les M]

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Andrew

IfI were in your position I would first check that you are getting a full 12v at the solenoid contact with the solenoid engaged , before pulling the starter.I went through this problem a few years ago and eventually traced the fault to the ignition switch contacts, they were breaking down under load and I was only getting 7/8v when the solenoid was engaged. The solenoid was not fully engaging and therefor was not making the main contact for the starter. I fitted a relay to act as the switch contacts and this has been OK since

How have you fitted the kit from ward's, by how I mean where in the loom exactly have you fitted the relay

Les.

[Andrew S]

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Hi Les

I have fitted teh loom so that the relay is near the wiper motor and the live feed it taken from the main feed (thick black wire from battery) that is attatched to the starter solenoid, then attached the white / red wire coming from the ignition switch to one side of the relay and then the other side of the relay connects back onto the solenoid. The relay is then earthed by wire to bodywork.

I was presuming by doing that the relay would provide 12v to the solenoid

Based on the way I have fitted the above as per Ward's instruction sheet, would this bypass the ignition switch?

Cheers

Andrew

[Dieter H. Marschall]

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Hello Andrew,

Why not fit a new "high torque" starter. My old one was "tired" and could not start the engine any more. After having built in a new starter it was an extremely different situation: the engine started immediately and with full power.

Kind regards, Dieter.

[Tdm]

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Dieter H. Marschall wrote:

Hello Andrew,

Why not fit a new "high torque" starter. My old one was "tired" and could not start the engine any more. After having built in a new starter it was an extremely different situation: the engine started immediately and with full power.

Kind regards, Dieter.

You can still get a "click" with a new high torque Starter - I occassionally do and thats when I give it a tap (bash) with a crowbar. By the way Dieter did you decide to get a Tonneau cover like mine - you said you were considering it?

[les M]

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Andrew

From the way that it's wired , then I would expect that you should get 12v at the starter considering thatthe relay isconnected direct to the battery. I think it may prove worthwhile to check that you are getting 12v at the solenoid with it engaged just to prove everything other than the starter/solenoid.

Les.

[Dieter H. Marschall]

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Hello Terry,

Yes, I will have a tonneau custom-made next week by a local shop. I will take a picture of your tonneau as a model example.

Kind regards, Dieter.

[Andrew S]

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les M wrote:

Andrew

From the way that it's wired , then I would expect that you should get 12v at the starter considering thatthe relay isconnected direct to the battery. I think it may prove worthwhile to check that you are getting 12v at the solenoid with it engaged just to prove everything other than the starter/solenoid.

Les.

Hi Les

Can you please confirm how I should do this? I am presuming that I put the positive multimeter lead on the terminal that where the white / red wire attaches and keeping the loom attached, turn the starter and see if the current drops?

Cheers

Andrew

[les M]

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Andrew

Yes you can do it that way,or you could disconnect the main battery lead at the starter and then do the test. When you say "see if the current drops" are you measuring the current (amps)or the voltage. If you are trying to measure the current then you have the meter connected incorrectly . But if you are measuring the voltage then that is the correct way, ie positive too the terminal and negative too a good earth point. To test all of the cables/connections then connect the test lead onto the terminal on the solenoid (last connection in the line before the starter).


Les.

[Andrew S]

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Thanks Les, yes I meant voltage.

Will have a goo over the weekend

Thanks

Andrew

[andy p]

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mine does the click thing sometimes when it feels like it, i thought thats how they are as the one i had 25 years ago did the same thing.

[Andrew S]

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Hi Andy

They shouldn't but I could put up with the odd click now and then, but it has reached the stage where I wouldn't fancy turning the engine off in a traffic jam with the that I might start a second one.It has only recently got worse in the last 2 months.

When it does turn, it turns very quickly and with plenty of power and engine starts instantaneously. I reckon they go through a mid life crisis

Andrew

[andy p]

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o thanks that must mean mine is going to get worse lol its nothing like yours at the min thou, it sounds like you might need to check all your terminals and leads as i think i do.

[Richard B]

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Can you still get the small heat shields for the starter solenoid.

This was broughtout to prevent the solenoid from seizing due to heat soak from the exhaust manifold.


I've now got one of the smaller Hi-Torque motors.

[Andrew S]

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Hi Richard

This sounds like a good idea but havent seen one fitted

Andrew