Oils and Fluids

[yabbox]

Hello All from a new member,

I have recently 'taken control' of my Dad's Stag from my brother, lucky me!! And an excellent summer to be using it so far.. it has already been down to Cornwall for a weekend.

I will be using it more frequently in the next month and so want to keep an eye on things under the bonnet. I haven't yet picked up the Hayne's Manual, but have been looking online for maintenance advice.

Can you please give advice for the best oils and fluids to use. For example, I know my power steering needs topping up. I have found Unipart stock on the LD Parts site, but any other of your wise recommendations appreciated.

If you also want to give me a run down on the other basic checks and your personal ideas that I should be doing regularly to keep the engine at it's best, that would be excellent, and I'll keep you updated on my sharp learning curve.

Thanks in advance,
Andy

[DJT]

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Hi Andy, and welcome to Stag ownership and this forum.

Firstly, power steering fluid. Triumph specified ATF or Automatic Transmission Fluid for the power steering. Nowadays, however, there are proprietry power steering fluids available from accessory shops such as Halfords and A1 motorstores. These come under the STP, Comma, etc. brands and include lubrication and leak prevention additives. These will do the job just as well, if not better.

Engine oil: mineral based 20W50 is perfectly good. You can get this is 'classic' form from Millers or Halfords. You can still get Unipart 20W50 oil for older engines which, again, is fine. Don't bother with synthetic or semi-synthetic oil.

Gearbox and diff use EP90 (GL5). Easily obtainable from the above outlets.

The most important fluid in the car is arguably the coolant. This should be drained and flushed every two years (don't forget the block drain plugs) and refilled with 30% anti-freeze/water mix. Some recommend de-ionside water, but that really depends on where you live. My tap water is so 'soft' that it is fine, but maybe not in a 'hard' water area. Quality 'blue' anti-freeze will do the trick such as Bluecol, or similar.

Topping up the coolant is an art that you need to master. Do it cold. Remove the plug on top of the radiator and the lid of the expansion bottle. Fill the radiator from the top and when the level overflows into the expansion bottle, fit the pressurecap as the level reaches the securing strap. Continue to fill the radiator squeezing the top hose to remove all air bubbles. Then replace the radiator top plug. It helps if the NSF of the car is jacked up slightly and the heater valve is in the 'hot' position. You will possibly find that after a few hot/cold cycles the level in the expansion bottle finds its own level at about 1/4 when cold. This is acceptable.

Come back here for more help whenever you need it.

Dave.

[yabbox]

imported post

Hello Dave,

Thanks for the detailed reply and the useful info. I am actually in Devon at the moment and think I may have seen your Stag (in the distance) drive over Mount Pleasant roundabout and up Stoke Hill last Saturday?!

I spotted you are the co-ordinator for Exeter SOC and was going to send you an email. Can you recommend a local specialist mechanic in Exeter, or towards Tiverton/Wellington? I think I should have my cooling system reverse flushed before travelling back to Oxford as not sure how long ago it was last done fully. I don't want to attempt this myself the first time, or is it not as scary as it may appear?

And keep a look out for my Tahiti Blue MKII, 1978 Reg before the weekend (if the rains ease off!). The V8 engine purrs and is Automatic.

Many thanks,
Andy

[Guest]

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Hi Andy - best decision you ever made, theStag's quite magical. I agree with all that Dave has said, I would only add that you really want to read up on how to check the transmission fluid level, it's simple but does require a particular technique.

There is one particular semi - synthetic oil I would recommend, Millers 20 /50 sport,whatever you do, stay well away from anything other than 20 /50, some modern thinner oils lubricate brilliantly, what they don't do, is sit in a pool above the valves ready to go when you start up, they drain away and leave you with a dry start. Welcome to a very special hobby, and a very special forum. Martin.

[DJT]

imported post

yabbox wrote:

Hello Dave,

Thanks for the detailed reply and the useful info. I am actually in Devon at the moment and think I may have seen your Stag (in the distance) drive over Mount Pleasant roundabout and up Stoke Hill last Saturday?!

I spotted you are the co-ordinator for Exeter SOC and was going to send you an email. Can you recommend a local specialist mechanic in Exeter, or towards Tiverton/Wellington? I think I should have my cooling system reverse flushed before travelling back to Oxford as not sure how long ago it was last done fully. I don't want to attempt this myself the first time, or is it not as scary as it may appear?

And keep a look out for my Tahiti Blue MKII, 1978 Reg before the weekend (if the rains ease off!). The V8 engine purrs and is Automatic.

Many thanks,
Andy

Hi Andy,

Yes that would have been me on my way to a rather disappointing Monthly Medal at Downes Crediton Golf Club .

As for a local specialist mechanic, I may be struggling to recommend one. My car only goes into a garage for the annual MOT or for bodywork/paint. I am off work this week, so if you want to pop around I can show you the basics and give your car the once over for you. I have sent you a PM with my phone number.

Dave

[yabbox]

imported post

Hello,

It was great to meet up with Dave yesterday and thanks again for the hours of tinkering, adjusting, guidance and recommendations you gave to my poorly car. I dropped by for a checkup, got a full medical and left the surgery with a few doctors suggestions and running much better already!

Thanks also for letting me drive your lovely Carmine, I'm very honoured. It is definitely a very solid feel and made me realise where mine needs attention. Definitely something for me to work towards, an ultimate goal maybe. I'll be there when I have the hard-top pulley system and I'm already on the look out for the 1.43 model in Tahiti blue!!

I am on the case with the link rod sockets, part #RS1054 I believe, for the fuel adjustment. I am also trying to find the viscous coupling. I've found one in Columbia and listed on thexmod, but out of stock - did you get the last one!

I remember the areas on the car where you pointed out problems, but my car vocab isn't good. You talked of the UJ clicking when in reverse, the nuts for the radiator area, poly bush replacements and new water hoses / radiator. If you have the time, can you please detail the part descriptions which need attention so I know where to start!

Thanks again.
Andy

[DJT]

imported post

Hi Andy. Thanks for the kind words, and it was my pleasure to 'tinker' with your Stag. Sorry I didn't have the time to do more, but as you quickly realised, nothing is ever a five-minute job!

Things to do:

1. Remove radiator and do a complete drain/flush of cooling system. With that being the original radiator and the car having been laid up for several years, I would be inclined to get a good replacement. Your car is definitely running hotter than I would be happy with.
2. Replace all cooling hoses and clips. Reinforced hoses are a must but, as I explained, don't get caught out with the so-called 'Kevlar-reinforced' ones.
3. Replace Viscous coupling. This will be a slight problem with yours being an automatic as you cannot lock the engine up so easily to undo and tighten the crankshaft bolt. But it is possible. Also ensure you get one from a good supplier. And yes, thexmod was soon cleared out of stock when the word got out!
4. Replace the carb rod knuckles to free up movement.
5. Replace the remaining oil cooler mounting bobbins (same part number as the petrol pump mounting bobbins). And straighten out as many of the cooling fins as you can.
6. Sort out the tyres and steering alignment. Although the tyres have plenty of tread I would suggest that they are at least 20 years old and well past being safe if they endured several years of layup too. This may well explain the vibration if one or more tyres has developed a 'flat spot'.
7. Check and lubricate the drive shaft splines and U/Js and prop shaft U/Js.
8. Change oil and filter. Arrange for a gearbox oil change and check too.
9. Consider replacing some or all of the suspension bushes. Changing the rear suspension arm bushes for poly will improve things. My car has all the bushes replaced, but some people recommendthat the ones that directly meet the bodywork should remain as rubber to avoid excess harshness.

With you living in Oxfordshire, your first port of call for spares should be Peter at http://www.ldparts.co.uk. He will also advise where you can get the work done if you are not yet confident to tackle it yourself.

You have the basis there of a very nice Stag. Bodywork looks sound and Tahiti/beige is a nice colour combination. Enjoy it, but not too heartily untilmost of the above has been done.

Dave

[DJT]

imported post

Andy,

PM sent.

Dave