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    H/brake Cable Fitting

    I have just been under the Stag trying to adjust the handbrake cable. Unfortnatley the adjuster is seized and cracked in half whilst trying to undo it!!

    Looking at the task of replacing the complete cable I read the workshop manual and looked at the relevent components under the car, after much thought I can only see one way of getting to the front yoke which is above the propshaft.

    I would like to know if I am correct that I have to remove the center exhausts then remove/lower the proshaft to get to the yoke which carries the handbrake cable? Or is there an easier way of doning this task?

    I look forward to your suggestions!

    Regards

    Stuart

    #2
    imported post

    Hello Stuart

    I replaced my cable last year and was able to do it without moving the exhaust or propshaft.

    I removed all the fitments from each end of the cable, taped a piece of strong twine to one of the free ends and pulled the cable out, leaving the twine in it's place.

    Next step was to fasten the new cable securely to the twine and pull it through. I had some trouble teasing it through the horseshoe fitment at the front, lining it up with the various holes in the chassis, discovering they needed a little bit of reaming with a coathanger toclear the mud and waxoyletc. Took longer than anticipated butnot the hours it might have done otherwise.

    Having access to a garage lift added a margin of comfort but it could have been done off ramps.



    Brian
    Brian

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      #3
      imported post

      Cheers Brian

      The simplest ideas are always the best! I have ordered the new cable and will let you know how I get on!

      Regards

      Stuart

      Comment


        #4
        imported post

        I did mine a couple of months ago, after trying and giving up with workshop manual procedure I tried your trick Brian but couldn't get adjuster through horseshoe. If you need to remove horseshoe, don't touch exhausts, unbolt propshaft both ends andmanouver around, just enough space to get a hand to the split pin and cotter. Don't know if this will work with a BW35 tho as splined.

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