Removal of Starter Motor - Is the Manual Wrong ?

[Dazza the Stag]

I am putting a refurbished Starter Motor on the Stag.

The Manual states "Remove top mounting bolt, nut and washer. This operation may be achieved working from above the engine using socket on forward bolt head with extension build up running forward so ratchet spanner may be used adjacent to cooling fan.Rear nut may be held with open-jawed spanner"

Neither of the bolts holding my starter motor in place have a rear nut ? They simply bolt into the engine plate, is that wrong or am i mis-reading the manual.

I also take it i need a very long extension for my ratchet spanner - some 500mm to undo that bolt.

Dazza

[Andrew S]

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Hi Dazza

I have just removed and replaced my starter with ease and didn't have to remove any other parts. My car is a manual MK2 and there was plenty of room to drop the starter past the exhaust pipe. You are quite right, there are no nuts at the back, simply two bolts from the front. The top one is easily accessible from the top with a ring spanner and the other one can be undo with fingers when lose and to to start it off, as you say a longer extension for the socket. Don't forget to disconnect the battery.

Good luck

Andrew

[Dazza the Stag]

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Andrew

Thanks for the quick reply.

You say that the top one is easily accessible with a ring spanner - this is the one that the book says I need the extension for - did you manage to remove it with just a spanner or did you use the long extension first- I cant seem to get enough leverage with just a spanner from the top.

The bottom one was easy.

Thanks

[Andrew S]

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I was able to use a ratchet ring spanner from the topand as it had been out last year, the thread was clear and came out easily. Using a socket from the underneath would be better and of the car is up high enough, you can touch all the bolts with your fingers, so accessible to undo or to secure a socket in place. Its always heavier than you remember when lowering down.

[Tdm]

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It is some years back that I removed my old starter on my Mk2 Stag and replaced it with a high torque one. Yes I needed a socket with a long extension to get at one of the nuts & I have a feeling that the second bolt had a nut on the end (bulkhead end) which needed a spanner on it to hold it tight whilst the bolt was unscrewed from the front. It is such a long tome ago though that I can't be certain that that was the way I did it. It wasn't easy and gave me a few bruised knuckles but I was sucessful in the end & the old starter could be manouvered out from the bottom once the bolts had been removed. Good Luck.

[Andrew S]

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I think the ones that have a nut on the back are where the threads have been damaged in the alloy plate and nut is required

Andrew

[SwissSteve]

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Just replaced mine with the Hi Torque Starter and mine also had a nut on the back top and bottom. I was able to do mine with a ring spanner and one of my short stubby ratchets I bought of EBay they are so handy on the Stag.

I also managed to take the old one off without removing the exhaust. Good tip regarding the battery and also the new motors only have two connections where the original has three.

E J Wards told me only to connect up the two larger cables and I will not need the smaller spade connector. This worked fine for me also.

Good luck

[BlueMK2]

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Manual gearbox has threads in the adaptor plate for the starter motor boltsso uses just a bolt, automatic starter motor is held in place with nuts and bolts. The third connection is the cold start boost to the ignition coil and should be fitted.

[Dazza the Stag]

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Well - just back from the garage and all fitted successfully.

Thank you Andrew for your comments, it gave me the confidence to try again to remove the top bolt with just a spanner and I suceeded, save a few quid in having to buy the extensions for the socket spanner!

I did remove the exhaust, which was very simple, albeit if it can be done without then there is little point.

The Ignition spade on the new starter was bigger than the old one so I had to change the connector, but apart from that it was easy.

Not sure about the Hi torque option, mine now starts instantly. Had it rebuilt by a local expert of starter motors, I have passed his details to Peter Howells of LDparts who might offer a refurbishment service in the future.

Thanks all

Dazza

[mad cyclist]

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BlueMK2 wrote:

Manual gearbox has threads in the adaptor plate for the starter motor boltsso uses just a bolt, automatic starter motor is held in place with nuts and bolts. The third connection is the cold start boost to the ignition coil and should be fitted.

good point have some mana

[mad cyclist]

imported post

Dazza the Stag wrote:

Well - just back from the garage and all fitted successfully.

Thank you Andrew for your comments, it gave me the confidence to try again to remove the top bolt with just a spanner and I suceeded, save a few quid in having to buy the extensions for the socket spanner!

I did remove the exhaust, which was very simple, albeit if it can be done without then there is little point.

The Ignition spade on the new starter was bigger than the old one so I had to change the connector, but apart from that it was easy.

Not sure about the Hi torque option, mine now starts instantly. Had it rebuilt by a local expert of starter motors, I have passed his details to Peter Howells of LDparts who might offer a refurbishment service in the future.

Thanks all

Dazza

good point aswell have some mana too