flushing coolant and replace antifreeze

[maverick]

Hello Staggers,

I am draining my radiator and block and have found useful information on the block plugs etc,however wanting to do a thorough job Iwant to "Backflush",the haynes manual just says put hose pipe in bottom hose fitting an wait till clean water flows out of top hose.

As usual I find the explanation form Haynes to be inadequte,can any members help me the art of backflushing or is it really that simple,cos I would of thought gravity would just let the water flow straight back out.

Another point is that is it worth using a flushing addative to help clean the rad ?

On the point of additives,I have used some that have been very good and really been effective ,the Waynes power steering stop leak for example.

A friend has just used an additive that I can only call truly amazing on his very noisey 318 that had very rattley chatting tappet noise.

What additives do you approve of and have been most impressed with? ,hope that list includes K Seal as I intend to add some at the refill stage.

All help appreciated,

Mark

[Giles]

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I would put K seal on your list. Molyslip in back axles has been good in the past - do not put in a Stag manual box though! Lucas Oils power steering stop leak has worked miracleson a old Range Rover box as well.

[maverick]

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Hi Giles,is Molyslip a leak stopper or an anti whine product and is it ok for the Stag diff.

Many Thanks

[Stagdad]

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Mark ,

Imade this http://stagownersclub.mywowbb.com/vi...light=flushing

Use an old top hose and cut it in half put onehose adaptor in each open end of the top hose and remove the thermostat,then blow through with mains pressure .

Cheers Steve

[Guest]

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Hiya, everything that Steve says, plus, take the rad out and turn it upside down, it's only four easily accessable bolts, that also allowes you to hose off a years worth of leaves, insects etc. Martin.

[Giles]

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Hi Mark

Molyslip is sold as a friction reducer with a claim to reduce whine - I have put some in my diff in the hope that it might help any future problem - have had a bit of improvement in the back axle of some cars over the years with it

[maverick]

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maverick wrote:

Hello Staggers,

I am draining my radiator and block and have found useful information on the block plugs etc,however wanting to do a thorough job Iwant to "Backflush",the haynes manual just says put hose pipe in bottom hose fitting an wait till clean water flows out of top hose.

As usual I find the explanation form Haynes to be inadequte,can any members help me the art of backflushing or is it really that simple,cos I would of thought gravity would just let the water flow straight back out.

Another point is that is it worth using a flushing addative to help clean the rad ?

On the point of additives,I have used some that have been very good and really been effective ,the Waynes power steering stop leak for example.

A friend has just used an additive that I can only call truly amazing on his very noisey 318 that had very rattley chatting tappet noise.

What additives do you approve of and have been most impressed with? ,hope that list includes K Seal as I intend to add some at the refill stage.

All help appreciated,

Mark

Bump,Come on chaps there must be knowledable members out there that know about back flushing an additives.

Replies truly appreciated,

Regards Mark

[maverick]

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[GDPR]

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Add some good old Holts Radflush and follow the instructions. After doing that, take your rad out, lay it face down and fill with a solution of Fernox, which you can buy from your local plumbers merchant. This will deal with scale buildup in the rad, but don't use it in the engine as the alloy won't like it.

Leave it in for an hour, occasionally tipping the rad to and fro just to agitate it, and then flush it thoroughly.

Take out the thermostat, disconnect the heater hoses and remove/clear the block drains. Adapt your hosepipe to the bottom hose and push water in from the bottom. Wiggle a stiff wire through the block drain holes to loosen as much clag as possible. After 10 minutes, refit the block drains and then do it again so the water comes out the heater connections on the engine - periodically block each connection with you thumb so the water flows faster through each.

Finally, flush the heater matrix out directly with the hose from both pipes in turn with the heater set to hot.

Refit your thermostat, rad and heater pipes and refill from the rad bung with the NSF jacked higher than the rest of the car with premixed antifreeze at 30% making sure the heater is still set to hot......

Should be dandy.......

OK to add K-Seal - I do and it's a good insurance against manifold leaks

Russ:dude:

[Dave M]

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On the subject of additives, whats the thinking on adding something like Slick 50 to the Stag engine?

Dave

[GDPR]

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Dave

Done it and the result was good 15000 miles ago, but wants re-doing now due to 5 oil changes since.....

Russ:dude:

[Guest]

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Hiya Russ, did it quieten the top end much ? I'm starting to getslighttappet noise, they've not been touched for about 45.000 miles. Martin.

[Dave M]

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kryten wrote:

Dave

Done it and the result was good 15000 miles ago, but wants re-doing now due to 5 oil changes since.....

Russ:dude:

Thats good enough for me then Russ, gonna nip out and buy some this weekend, hoping it will quieten the top end like Martin but even if it doesent it sounds like it wont do any harm.

Dave

[GDPR]

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It did make a difference, but my top end was quite quiet to start with - unlike now! My left bank is getting a chatter on too, so maybe it's time to strip and inspect or chuck some more Slick in and see what happens

When I stuck it in my old V8 Rover P6 with 133,000 miles on it (original untouched engine as complete history was known), a generally noisy engine was almost silent after 20 miles (it takes a while to work it's way around). 20,000 miles later it was still very good, but someone offered me too much money for it so I sold it.... still going now, and I sold it in '91....

Russ:dude:

[ohgodwhathaveidone]

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When you do this I don't suppose you could video it - take a few piccies cos for eejits like me "...take plug A out and flush through removing hose F..etc..." is like giving me an IKEA book of flat pack instructions in primitive swamp language - I'm sorry, but some of us just ain't mechanically minded....architecturally minded and spacially aware, yes, can read a map, yes