Additives

[maverick]

Following on from theflushing coolant and replace antifreeze thread that turned into a very interesting discussion on additives,I have done some browsing on the shelves of local motor factors and Halfords,who I have to say are not the cheapest but do have the best selection.

What surprised me is how many options for friction reducers there are available.

I have probablydecided on Slick 50,but thought it may be helpful to inform other members of other brands ,some are much less expensive,and I may be swayed if opinions greatly vary

Molyslip usually known for the diff/gearbox item do an anti friction engine additive

Wynns Engine super charge.

and two others that I can no longer remeber the name but were in Halfords.

Has anyone tried any of the other friction reducers or in fact any other additives like stop leak,engine quiteners etc and found to give real results,or infact had a negative experience.?

Personally I am a beliver and have found some of these products to be very very good,K Seal for example,and feel there is nothing wrong with our 35yr old technology getting any help it can to the Stag alive and well.

I realise that some of this was covered in previous thread but I am banking on it gettingread a little moreand being of more help to some due to the titling this time.

Must point out I have no connection with any retailer or brand described here.

Regards Mark

[DanDanTheGardeningMan]

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When I bought my Stag 5 years ago, the oil pressure was quite low. I changed the oil and also, for good measure, added an additive that claimed to raise compression and reduce smoke.

About 30 miles later the engine was running on6 cylinders and emitting the darkest oilest blue smoke you've ever seen.....I don't know if there is a connection between adding the oil treatment ( it was thick and gluey, like syrup ), and the engine failure, as the engine was worn anyway. But there's no way I'm ever putting anything extra in the engine now.

[G_Cam]

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IMHO - NEVER EVER EVER use Slick 50 or the likes. It only ever hastens the demise of the engine.

The best way of preserving your engine is to do regular oil and filter changes - a semi or fully synthetic oil may also help - but they are generally more expensive than mineral oils and it does depend on how hard you work the engine.

Graham

[Malcolm C]

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http://www.wynns.be/product.aspx?nav...64559&l=EN

I used this 3 years ago in my leaking powered steering system.

It worked 100% with no more leaks.

Malcolm

[Kevin Garrod]

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G_Cam wrote:

IMHO - NEVER EVER EVER use Slick 50 or the likes. It only ever hastens the demise of the engine.

The best way of preserving your engine is to do regular oil and filter changes - a semi or fully synthetic oil may also help - but they are generally more expensive than mineral oils and it does depend on how hard you work the engine.

Graham

Can't argue with importance of regular oil changes, but what direct negative experience have you had of Slick 50?

I used it years ago on my first car,which I crashed soon after:shock:, although I'm not convinced the 2 events are related

[Andy Rundell]

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Kevin Garrod wrote:

I used it years ago on my first car,which I crashed soon after:shock:, although I'm not convinced the 2 events are related

You sure you didn't use it as tyre shine

[G_Cam]

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Kevin Garrod wrote:

G_Cam wrote:

IMHO - NEVER EVER EVER use Slick 50 or the likes. It only ever hastens the demise of the engine.

The best way of preserving your engine is to do regular oil and filter changes - a semi or fully synthetic oil may also help - but they are generally more expensive than mineral oils and it does depend on how hard you work the engine.

Graham

Can't argue with importance of regular oil changes, but what direct negative experience have you had of Slick 50?

I used it years ago on my first car,which I crashed soon after:shock:, although I'm not convinced the 2 events are related

I have used Slick 50 on three occasions...in all 3 cases the engine expired soon after. This was in a Mk2 Escort, Spitire and Herald. The Spitfire and Herald Engines were both re-built before using it. The guy who did my Engine work (Cuthill in Stirling) suggested that the Slick 50 had built up a coating on the metal bearings that had not allowed heat transfer - ie they overheated.

I could have just been very unlucky - but I used to rally and none of the guys that I competed against had a good word to say about slick 50. Its a pity as I get the theory about reducing friction etc.... but as I say its just IMHO

[Giles]

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I used Slick 50 in a Rover V8 in my old Comp Safari off road racer - engine was still fine when I sold it to get the Stag and it had done a lot of work by then and as you can imagine had not had a easy life! Do not know if it did any good but it did not seem to do any harm either!

[GDPR]

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As I've already said, I've had only positive experiences with slick 50, and won't be changing my opinion or usage of it. As to the engine failures suspecting thermal insulation , I would think it unlikely that a film of a few microns would form a thermal barrier, and more likely the engine wasn't fully bedded in before adding a friction reducer and preventing further bedding down.

[G_Cam]

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kryten wrote:

As I've already said, I've had only positive experiences with slick 50, and won't be changing my opinion or usage of it. As to the engine failures suspecting thermal insulation , I would think it unlikely that a film of a few microns would form a thermal barrier, and more likely the engine wasn't fully bedded in before adding a friction reducer.

That could have been the case - I'm not sure - I guess I spend the time making sure the oil is changed on a more regular basis etc.. these days as its an easy do.

:?Just to contradict my own logic... Im just about to put Fully Synthetic friction reducing oil into my Defenders LT77 Gearbox.... Fingers crossed all will be ok

[marshman]

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G_Cam wrote:

:?Just to contradict my own logic... Im just about to put Fully Synthetic friction reducing oil into my Defenders LT77 Gearbox.... Fingers crossed all will be ok

Its a bit off topic but I'm curious to know why. My 110 with its LT77 box has done coming up to 140,000 miles. I've always put ATF in it and changed it every 50,000. It still seems OK to me (output shaft was replaced at 130,000 miles due to lack of splines but thats an issue with lubrication in the transfer box - good old BL)

Roger

[G_Cam]

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My 110 is around 150K on the clock - and all is pretty much OK at the moment (although I have done a lot of work to it). The Difflock stuff is supposed to allow you to actually find the gears a bit easier - especially on a cold winters morning..... Its always cold here - so I will let you know how it goes.

I have also ordered up some other bits like an auto drain plug from them and a UJ tool - so it will all get done before the winter sets in (I hope)

[GDPR]

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marshman wrote:

G_Cam wrote:

:?Just to contradict my own logic... Im just about to put Fully Synthetic friction reducing oil into my Defenders LT77 Gearbox.... Fingers crossed all will be ok

Its a bit off topic but I'm curious to know why. My 110 with its LT77 box has done coming up to 140,000 miles. I've always put ATF in it and changed it every 50,000. It still seems OK to me (output shaft was replaced at 130,000 miles due to lack of splines but thats an issue with lubrication in the transfer box - good old BL)

Roger

Point of possible interest: Are you aware that the LT77 box originally used hypoid oil? The reason for changing to ATF was snapping of the internal oil pump shaft in cold weather due to the hypoid oil being too thick, and the only oil that was thin enough and able to take the stick required was transmission fluid

[nib]

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Went into the local motor spares place today after some K-seal for the mondeo and the bloke behind the counter told me they now stock a better item called Abro Liquid heavy duty stop leak.

http:www.abro.com

Anyone heard anything about it?

Mark

[marshman]

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kryten wrote:

Point of possible interest: Are you aware that the LT77 box originally used hypoid oil? The reason for changing to ATF was snapping of the internal oil pump shaft in cold weather due to the hypoid oil being too thick, and the only oil that was thin enough and able to take the stick required was transmission fluid

Thanks for the info Russ, I'vealways wondered why it used ATF, I thought it was just so there was yet another grade/type of fluid I had to keep. At last count I've got 2 types of ATF, 5 different grades of engine oil, 2 lots of gear oil, DoT4 and DoT5 brake fluid and some hydraulic fluid,oh and 2 sorts of anti-freeze.:shock::shock:

Now perhapswe had better sendour anoraks up north to G_CAM to keep him warm, "its always cold" up there apparently.