Just in case anybody is doing this job in the near future don't make the same mistake as me and rush the job. I spent hours swearing and cursing trying to get it to line up only to discover that I had fitted the diff nose piece upside down. The flat side goes at the bottom with the curved centre section at the top.
The whole assembly went in quite easily supported by a piece of wood between the trailing arms slightly ahead of the diff. I found it easiest to stand the assembly vertical, line the jack and plank up then to lower / tip the assembly onto the jack. If I remember rightly I loosened the diff carrier nuts on the backplate to give a bit more flex in lining everything up, there's just room to tighten the upper ones in situ - although this may have been just on the fourth and fifth attempts with it assembled incorrectly.....
Good to see the car finally back on its wheels after four or five years and lots of new metal and extremely relieved to see that I hadn't welded the subframe locating points into the wrong positions despite masses of measuring etc.
The whole assembly went in quite easily supported by a piece of wood between the trailing arms slightly ahead of the diff. I found it easiest to stand the assembly vertical, line the jack and plank up then to lower / tip the assembly onto the jack. If I remember rightly I loosened the diff carrier nuts on the backplate to give a bit more flex in lining everything up, there's just room to tighten the upper ones in situ - although this may have been just on the fourth and fifth attempts with it assembled incorrectly.....
Good to see the car finally back on its wheels after four or five years and lots of new metal and extremely relieved to see that I hadn't welded the subframe locating points into the wrong positions despite masses of measuring etc.
Gives plenty of room to swing the rubber mallet for some gentle persuasion:P
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