Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

BMW servo conversion

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    BMW servo conversion

    Ifanyone has fitted the BMW servo and master cylinder conversionto a manual stag, would it be at all possible to have some photo's of the pedal box arrangement, looking at doing this conversion over the winterbut would like to able to seewhat work is involved first

    Cheers

    Stu E

    #2
    imported post

    Whats is the point of this conversion (there is nothing wrong with the Stag servo)?

    A change of servocannotmake your braking power any better (unless you have weak legs).

    It seems like modification for the sake of it to me.

    Comment


      #3
      imported post

      Sorry, no pics, but one of our guys has done it, and he can't get the dipstick out !True. He reckons the pedal is a bit lighter but the brakes are about the same:? Martin.

      Comment


        #4
        imported post

        V Mad wrote:
        Whats is the point of this conversion (there is nothing wrong with the Stag servo)?

        A change of servocannotmake your braking power any better (unless you have weak legs).

        It seems like modification for the sake of it to me.
        Funnily enough Chris, I was at a South Coast Triumph Specialist a few years back when he proudly showed me the 6cyl conversion he'd done on a customer's Spitfire, when I pointed out it was still running Spit brakes he told me it was ok as he'd fitted a servo, some people just don't get it.

        Ian

        Comment


          #5
          imported post

          Stu

          If you are bored and looking for something to fill your time, come on round and help me with car!

          Cheers

          Bruce

          Comment


            #6
            imported post

            Okay if your original servo and brake master cylinder is shot, but I personally would recondition/renew the originals....I don't like the idea of a lump hammer to make the BMW servo fit!


            Mike.
            74 Stag (Best Modified 2007), 02 Maserati 4200, 17 BMW M140i, 00 Mitsubishi Pinin

            Comment


              #7
              imported post

              Thanks all for the advice

              My master cylinder/servo is a bit suspect at the moment (well in think it is), i seem to to have a slight problem with the brakes which i can feel the most when I'm coming to a stop, it's as if the the brakes are releasing for a split second than grabbing again (it's quite hard to explain), when it rebushed the front and rear end's i replaced all brake linings, disc's, cylinders, calipersand flexy brake pipes, but i still get the same feeling through the brake pedal it's been there since I've owned the car

              Does anyone have any ideas on this?

              Comment


                #8
                imported post

                Rubce wrote:
                Stu

                If you are bored and looking for something to fill your time, come on round and help me with car!

                Cheers

                Bruce
                Bruce


                If you ever need a chuck with anything just give me a shout

                Comment


                  #9
                  imported post

                  whereufromnosecity wrote:
                  Bruce


                  If you ever need a chuck with anything just give me a shout

                  Hi Stu

                  Thanks for the offer.

                  I recently bought a MOD gearbox off a chap who has a BMW servo fitted to his car. He is a member on here but never posts.Perhaps he will contact you direct?

                  Bruce

                  Comment


                    #10
                    imported post

                    I've fitted the servo. I cheated a tad and bought the Monarch kit which provides the instructions and parts required.

                    You do need to dish the inside wheelarch with a copper mallet in order for it to fit, and even then it only just fits. The bolt holes for the pedal-box also need to be realigned towards the transmission tunnel by less than an inch as I recall. In order to maintain rigdity, a steel sandwich plate is needed, however this is not a real problem.

                    The clutch m/cylinder remains in the same position, however it requires a bolt and arm arrangement in order for the offset between clutch pedal and cylinder arm to be addressed; again no major issue.

                    I removed the steering column when I made the alterations.

                    With regard to performance, I upgraded my front brakes to four pot callipers and vented discs,and rear discs at the same time, so I'm not entirely certain what difference the servo and master cylinder alone would make. This would depend on the bore/capacity of the m/cylinder, in combination with the greater mechanical advantage offered by the larger servo.

                    However, overall, the brakes are now awesome. The car is very well balanced under braking and feels correctly braked; i.e. it doesn't lock easily, and also stops fantastically well, and in normal conditionsthe brakes areeasily as good as those of a modern car, but obviously without the computer aids!

                    I'm afraid I didn't take any photos of these parts when I made the mods.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      imported post

                      Cheers Stoutgoose for the info

                      I have the instructions kindly supplied by another member

                      Would it possible for you to take a pic of the clutch pedal adjustments, i just cant picture how it will reconnect to the pedal

                      Stu E

                      Comment


                        #12
                        imported post

                        It'll be a while before I'll be able to the car, so I'll try and describe.

                        The standard clutch pedal has a hole at the top through which a bolt is fixed, which in turn runs througha hole inthe end of the clutch m/cylinder arm, with a securing nut holding it all together.

                        Now, the pedal box is moved sideways with the BMW servo, however the clutch m/cylinder remains in the same location, thus generating a lateral gap between the clutch pedal and the clutch m/cylinder arm. This is overcome by running a bolt (say 2")with a thread along its full length through the hole in the clutch pedal, secured by a nut on the other side of the pedal arm, with another nut screwed loosely next to it, before then running the bolt through the hole in the clutch m/cylinder arm, with another nut on the end of the bolt.

                        This allows you to firmly lock the bolt onto the clutch pedal, and then using the two adjuster nuts, to lock the m/cylinder arm on the other end of the bolt.

                        This fixes the offset problem and allows the pedal travel to be transmitted through the m/cylinder arm.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          imported post

                          I see, that makes sense

                          Which way and by how much does the pedal box move

                          Comment


                            #14
                            imported post

                            From what I remember it's less then an inch towards the transmission tunnel/centre of car.

                            Comment

                            canli bahis siteleri bahis siteleri ecebet.net
                            Chad fucks Amara Romanis ass on his top ?????????????? ???? ?????? ?????? ? ??????? fotos de hombres mostrando el pene
                            güvenilir bahis siteleri
                            Working...
                            X