How have you fitted your tubulars?

[Stagdad]

I've seen both used ,but in the words of top gear "which is best"

Cheers Steve



And also gaskets or no gaskets?

[SGN]

imported post

I thought it was Harry Hill (which one is better) FIGHT!!

Cheers
Steve

[Bob Heritage]

imported post

Hi Steve

Are you attempting fitting the tubulars with the engine in situ? - best of luck if you are.
The hard one to fit is the lower rear offside just above the oil filter. I fitted mine with bolts and gaskets with the engine out, but I think that if you put a stud in there it would be easier to put a nut on than put a bolt in. The other thing to bear in mind is to make sure you have the thinner steering shaft that passes the bottom pipe, I think you will be O.K. because it is the later cars that have the thicker one. My car had a clearance of 25 thou there and ended up having to move the shaft forward to its max to stop it rubbing, if I take it out again I will nip the pipe a little in a vice before re-fitting to get more clearance.

Bob


P.S. I am assuming they are S/Steel and the later type.

[Guest]

imported post

One of the SS tubulars has a clearance "kink" in it to deal with the steering column, I could be wrong, but I think it's the one that Wards sell, can't recall the make. Martin.

[Bob Heritage]

imported post

Martin Stevenson wrote:

One of the SS tubulars has a clearance "kink" in it to deal with the steering column, I could be wrong, but I think it's the one that Wards sell, can't recall the make. Martin.

There is a flat on one part of the pipework, - But it's in the wrong place

[Kevin Garrod]

imported post

Stagdad wrote:

I've seen both used ,but in the words of top gear "which is best"

Cheers Steve



And also gaskets or no gaskets?

I'm sure I used bolts, but I had the heads off anyway.

No gaskets, but I did use some gun gum.

[mjheathcote]

imported post

Stainless setscrews here.... with plenty of copperslip.

Technically studs and nuts should really be used so you are not impossing a twisting torque on ali threads, but all mine have steel inserts so setscrews are neater and easier.




oh, I made up my own gaskets at the time as it was years before they where available.

[Sheepdip]

imported post

Bob Heritage wrote:

Hi Steve

Are you attempting fitting the tubulars with the engine in situ? - best of luck if you are.
The hard one to fit is the lower rear offside just above the oil filter. I fitted mine with bolts and gaskets with the engine out, but I think that if you put a stud in there it would be easier to put a nut on than put a bolt in. The other thing to bear in mind is to make sure you have the thinner steering shaft that passes the bottom pipe, I think you will be O.K. because it is the later cars that have the thicker one. My car had a clearance of 25 thou there and ended up having to move the shaft forward to its max to stop it rubbing, if I take it out again I will nip the pipe a little in a vice before re-fitting to get more clearance.

Bob


P.S. I am assuming they are S/Steel and the later type.

Hi Bob, I didn't realise you had these. I bought some from Robsport at ND last year :shock:and have yet to fit them. I guess mine is a later car (although I fitted a new steering shaft) so may have problems.....what exactly is the problem with the bolts tho? Mine came with gaskets.

On same subject, my worry is cutting the old downpipes too short, how did you do it - did you leave the whole exhaust in place sans front pipe then measure alongside?

Paul

[Stagdad]

imported post

Bob Heritage wrote:

Hi Steve

Are you attempting fitting the tubulars with the engine in situ? - best of luck if you are.
The hard one to fit is the lower rear offside just above the oil filter. I fitted mine with bolts and gaskets with the engine out, but I think that if you put a stud in there it would be easier to put a nut on than put a bolt in. The other thing to bear in mind is to make sure you have the thinner steering shaft that passes the bottom pipe, I think you will be O.K. because it is the later cars that have the thicker one. My car had a clearance of 25 thou there and ended up having to move the shaft forward to its max to stop it rubbing, if I take it out again I will nip the pipe a little in a vice before re-fitting to get more clearance.

Bob


P.S. I am assuming they are S/Steel and the later type.

Hi Bob ,Iv'e just measured my shaft:shock:and it is approx 15mm ,is this the smaller one.Will be engine out and they are S/steelnew style manifolds .

Cheers Steve

[Stagdad]

imported post

mjheathcote wrote:

Stainless setscrews here.... with plenty of copperslip.

Technically studs and nuts should really be used so you are not impossing a twisting torque on ali threads, but all mine have steel inserts so setscrews are neater and easier.




oh, I made up my own gaskets at the time as it was years before they where available.

Mike

If i find i have thread issues i may well fit inserts,in fact i may do it anyway and then go with setscrews ,as you say neater.

Cheers Steve

[alan_thomas]

imported post

Stagdad wrote:

mjheathcote wrote:

Stainless setscrews here.... with plenty of copperslip.

Technically studs and nuts should really be used so you are not impossing a twisting torque on ali threads, but all mine have steel inserts so setscrews are neater and easier.




oh, I made up my own gaskets at the time as it was years before they where available.

Mike

If i find i have thread issues i may well fit inserts,in fact i may do it anyway and then go with setscrews ,as you say neater.

Cheers Steve

Steve, I would fit thread inserts anyway if you are doing this with engine out. I have the 5/16UNC helicoil set and pleanty of inserts, just replace what you use. Will you be wanting the crane?

- Alan

[Kevin Garrod]

imported post

Stagdad wrote:

Hi Bob ,Iv'e just measured my shaft:shock:and it is approx 15mm ,is this the smaller one.

Steve, sounds like you have the smaller shaft (fnarr)..pic below the larger shaft at the top is cast and the smaller one seems to be welded.

[Bob Heritage]

imported post

Hi Steve & Paul

Kevin's photo seems to sum it all up, you can see on the top shaft where it rubs the manifold. Mine though rubbed with the thinner one too until I moved it forward. On looking at others there seems quite a bit of tolerance between all of them, I saw one a while ago that had about 1/2" gap. No problem fitting bolts if the engine is out or heads off, but I would consider fitting a stud to the lower rear off side. If you can gauge the position where rubbing might take place, it's worth nippingthe manifolda little for more tolerance.
Make sure you have plenty of time, you might need it.

[Stagdad]

imported post

alan_thomas wrote:

Stagdad wrote:

mjheathcote wrote:

Stainless setscrews here.... with plenty of copperslip.

Technically studs and nuts should really be used so you are not impossing a twisting torque on ali threads, but all mine have steel inserts so setscrews are neater and easier.




oh, I made up my own gaskets at the time as it was years before they where available.

Mike

If i find i have thread issues i may well fit inserts,in fact i may do it anyway and then go with setscrews ,as you say neater.

Cheers Steve

Steve, I would fit thread inserts anyway if you are doing this with engine out. I have the 5/16UNC helicoil set and pleanty of inserts, just replace what you use. Will you be wanting the crane?

- Alan

Yes please Alan both engine lift and inserts ,i looked on Peters (LD) site and it had Bolts for exhaust manifoldstate as 3/8 UNC

http://www.ldpart.co.uk/shop/shop.ph...f78fbc4dfb0d2d

So now confused

Cheers Steve

[Arbman Al]

imported post

Hi Steve,

I put mine on with studs and gaskets, and as the others say there is one that is a bit fiddly.

I have the thinner steering shaft, and have no clearance issues, but also had new engine mounts fitted as well which can make a little difference.

Rgds....Al.