Front Suspension Knocks

[V Mad]

I had a loud knock coming from the LH side front suspension. On inspection I found that the shock absorber insert was loose. Even afterremoving strut etc and fully tightening the ring it still movedso I fitted a large thick washer shim (lucky I had some)at the bottom, and that has taken up the slack. When it was all put back I gave the wheela good shake and I heard a knock from the LH side. Guess what? The otherinsert is loose as well.:X

Iam sure this is the work of abad mechanic as the PO was not a DIY person. I know this is a common problem but there is no excuse for such shoddy work is there?

I think the parts suppliers are partly responsible as they should supply a shim or make sure the fixing ring is deeper.

[singapore stag]

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I think the parts suppliers are partly responsible as they should supply a shim or make sure the fixing ring is deeper.

Keep dreaming Chris, they will never do it .

Sukh.

[Moraystag]

imported post

VMAD you dont have to tell me about bad workmanship. I have had it up to the neck.

Recently had recon diff fitted Aug 2009, but decided to strip the whole back end down last monthso dropped it in a oner, so I could change bushes and do some fettling to the underside.

Diff had been fitted to diff mounting plate, with only 3 x nuts, yes there wasfour before it was changed out. I really did.nt think that I would have to check every nut and bolt after paying good money to have proffessional undertake the work. Just go's to show



Mike

[DJT]

imported post

singapore stag wrote:

I think the parts suppliers are partly responsible as they should supply a shim or make sure the fixing ring is deeper.

Keep dreaming Chris, they will never do it .

Sukh.

Chris,

Last time I did strut inserts they wouldn't fit because there was a spacer welded to the bottom which was too deep. I had to trim it down to get them to fit.

Dave

[Moraystag]

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Dave did you get home???.



Mike

[Stagdad]

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What about 2" of silicon dropped into the strut to act as a retainer once it has gone off.(as well as getting the nut to biteon the insert of course)as it is you are trying to stop a sideways force with a downwards force .

Cheers Steve

[Andy Rundell]

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supplying a couple of shims would be good - or at least specify that the leg will need to be packed.

quite like the idea of dropping in some silicone - although it may break up over time - perhaps shim plus silicone ?

........Andy

[DJT]

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Moraystag wrote:

Dave did you get home???.



Mike

Yes thanks, Mike. And none the worse for wear . Even managed some last minute shopping for SWMBO in the DF shop at Aberdeen before flying South.

Dave

[peter f]

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Hi All,
I bought some new inserts from Paddocks some time ago, and fitted them eventually, but the problem I had was with the threaded ring at the top of the strut. As the top of the strut is peened over to retain the threaded ring, you have to 'unpeen' it so you can remove the ring. I had no tool to fit the four recessed holes in the top of the ring, so had to unscrew it by knocking it out in the vice with a metal punch and hammer.
The main problem is that when you 'unpeen' the strut top, you invariably damage the threads, thus making the threaded ring very hard to undo and refit. I ended up buying a second hand strut with decent threads at the top, when refurbing one side. The insert did start to rattle, but I managed to tap the ring tighter (in situ) and peen it over again. I have heard a spot of weld has been used to do the job permanently!!
Nothing is easy on a Stag !!
Peter

[V Mad]

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I just took out the other leg, and the situation is different there. The ring was a different type (unsuitable for the Woodheadinsert), and was sticking out at the top too far so not enough thread was engaged. When I tightened it the thread just gave way, so the ring is u/s now.

The ring was made of alloy and it looked like it was made for a different shape insert.

Now I need to find a suitable locking ring from somewhere. I cant find one listed on any of the usual websites. I suspect this is going to be tricky.

[Stagdad]

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The trouble i had fitting spax is that the soft alloy nut that comes with them combined with the very fine thread and the hard steel outerment that one side crossed threadedeven though i was so carefull.

In the end i sacrifised the top threaded partof a spare strut and ran the nut though it from the bottom up and managed to restore the thread.

I reckon it's almost worth loosing a portion of metalaround the peening to make sure the thread is good.


Another item for SOCTFL large taps for the strut thread?


Cheers Steve

[V Mad]

imported post

Stagdad wrote:

The trouble i had fitting spax is that the soft alloy nut that comes with them combined with the very fine thread and the hard steel outerment that one side crossed threadedeven though i was so carefull.

In the end i sacrifised the top threaded partof a spare strut and ran the nut though it from the bottom up and managed to restore the thread.

I reckon it's almost worth loosing a portion of metalaround the peening to make sure the thread is good.


Another item for SOCTFL large taps for the strut thread?


Cheers Steve

Steve

If we can buy some steel nuts rather than alloy then grind off three or four flats on them this will work as a thread reforming tool. Wouldbe useful to have a hex top soit can be turned with a spanner. I might have a go a that one, and add it to my cache of special tools

[V Mad]

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I spoke to Chris Witor and he is sending me a collar that should fit. He says that each type of shock insert comes with its own special collar. This make life difficult if you just need a replacement collar without the schock. I dont want to spoil the new thread and he suggested using a Dremel grinder to remove the peened over section of thread before fitting the collar.

[scarts]

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Well my first attempt at rebuilding my front struts was *almost* a success...

I bought 'standard' strut inserts and when put into the strut with the insert strut ring tightened up there was still some vertical play - I could push/pull the strut insert and hear it bumping the bottom/top of the strut/strut ring.

To counter this I droppeda couple of large washers into the bottom of the strut - Great! no more vertical play, but now I get some horizontal play at the bottom of the strut insert. I believe this is because in the bottom of the strut it has a depressed type of slot for the bottom of the strut insert to sit in which would hold it in place. By dropping in the large washers inI've effectively filled in that hole, so the bottom of the strut is now flat so the strutinsert can move around at the bottom (couldn't feel any when on the bench but am sure with the forcesof the car on it when re-fitted is causing this play).

Chris, you mentioned some shims - any idea what size they were? Although I can measure for myself, I'm sure I can duely mess that up as well.

My other thought is to put shims/washers on the top of the strut insert so that the bottom will correctly sit in it's hole and the vertical gap will be eliminated at the top between the strut insert and the ring. Any advice on why I shouldn't do this?

SteveC

[V Mad]

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Hi Steve

The top locking ring is usually shaped to fit neatly over the insert so I would not really recommend a washer there.

I usually use a very large washer about 1.5mm thickat the bottom if I can find one, if not I make one up out of scrap metal.