Header Tank.

[Guest]

Hi all, I've been pondering over header tanks for some time now, I've even fitted one, that split (Volvo) and I'm back to the original setup. I've attached a pic of a proposal that I'd like your opinonon.

I've read and re-read every thread I can find, and to be honest, I think other solutions are too complex. The original setup usesonly one pipe, but with the tank mounted too low, I've read about a high second pipe for air to escape, but as it's a closed system, I can't see the value of it, when I first set up mine, I had the second pipe, and on cooling, the engine drew back the air through that pipe and not the water through the lower one, and my coolant got progressively lower.

Any and all thoughts on the above would be very much appreciated. Martin.

[STAG1973]

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Thats a animated picture that will never fit in your stag.

Adrian

[Stagdad]

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I think this, which is what you get with most modern systems and what you get using a header tank if you plumb it that way.

Cheers Steve

[Stagdad]

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The tank

[Guest]

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Stagdad wrote:

I think this, which is what you get with most modern systems and what you get using a header tank if you plumb it that way.

Cheers Steve

Hi Steve, I can see the sense of that, but routing to the bottom hose is approaching nightmare territory. Martin.

[STAG1973]

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looks like you will have to get your rad modified with a bottom hose entry.

Adrian

[Guest]

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It's a thought mate ! Martin.

[Stagdad]

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Martin Stevenson wrote:

Stagdad wrote:

I think this, which is what you get with most modern systems and what you get using a header tank if you plumb it that way.

Cheers Steve

Hi Steve, I can see the sense of that, but routing to the bottom hose is approaching nightmare territory. Martin.

Thats why most of us have gone for the rad mod ,far easier in the long run.

Steve

[STAG1973]

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Try Automotive cooling services, Victoria road Northampton, they do a great job on rad work etc.

Adrian

[Stagdad]

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Top and bottom spigots,fan switch boss and a pressure test cost me about £40.

Steve

[mjheathcote]

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My Mark I header tank just had a bottom connection to the normal overflow. Worked fine for 20 years, never had to top up, never a cooling problem.

My Mark II header tank same design but additional second bottom connection to the top hose as well, for easy of filling the system from the header tank, again has worked just the same for the last few years.

So yes I believe as long as you have a head of water above the water pump it will work just fine. I don't believe adding additional hoses here there and everywhere makes a bat of difference to be honest!

[jleyton]

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I'm sure I'm being naive here, but if you can get a slim header tank up high enough, why can't Martin's original diagram work if simply connected to the original header tank outlet on the rad?

Wouldn't this be the same as the standard system but with the benefit of ensuring that the top of the rad has a permanent supply of water (assuming some is in header tank) ?

Now I just know you're all going to tell me why this won't work :?

[mjheathcote]

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jleyton wrote:

I'm sure I'm being naive here, but if you can get a slim header tank up high enough, why can't Martin's original diagram work if simply connected to the original header tank outlet on the rad?

Wouldn't this be the same as the standard system but with the benefit of ensuring that the top of the rad has a permanent supply of water (assuming some is in header tank) ?

Now I just know you're all going to tell me why this won't work :?

Just what I said before you!

[jleyton]

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Indeedee

I saw your post just as mine went up !

Cheers

Julian

PS I'm a great believer in KIS (Keep It Simple)

[RobM]

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Julian

It will work....My Mk2 header tank which I think is a tr6 tank has a one connection to the normal Rad overflow. It’s Worked great for last 8 years with no cooling problems.

Also you still have lot of stags with the standard low bottle with no problems.