Hi, I've recently bought a 1973 Stag that's only done 35k miles. She was recommissioned in 2013. This included an engine rebuild. She's only done 600miles since then. I have bills for the parts replaced during the rebuild. My worry is that the rebuild included a new water pump rather than a reconditioned one. I've read lots of horror stories regarding poor quality pumps resulting in jackshaft failures etc etc. The engineer in me likes the idea of an electric pump but the Yorkshireman thinks it's expensive, though not as expensive as an engine rebuild if the jackshaft seizes. Am I worrying unduly? Any thoughts? Thanks Matt
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New Stag, new water pump
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It's not clear who built the engine, but I believe the pump came from Robsport, who I know are one of the good guys, it's the stories of a "bad batch" of water pumps 5 - 10 years ago that concerns me. As it's done so few miles since then it could be a bad one and I won't know. Also is curious that there are very few new pumps for sale, most seem to be recon/exchange items is this because of poor quality of the new items or availability. There are views on here that suggest rebuilding an old OEM pump is better than a new one....
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Was it really a new water pump in 2013, Matt? The only source I know that has had them new in the recent past is Rimmers, Robsport do, however do a good reconditioning service. We have recently started a remanufacturing project for this very reason.
Of course there may have been the odd one or 2 new ones lying around so it may be that yours was new - just worth double checking.Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't
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Matt.
So what to do? I think that even if the pump is possibly of poor quality, it isn't going to be apparrent after only 600 miles. You could try and find a good second hand one and have it rebuilt, but that seems excessively pessimistic. I have fitted a magnetic sump plug to my Stag, and I examine it closely at every oil change. If it comes out looking like a hedgehog I know there is trouble brewing. If not, I stop worrying.
Mike.
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agree that it is good to be cautious after all if you bought any car with no service history you might give it a major service after buying.
That said if you have a robsport invoice for a waterpump then check with them that their pumps were recon back in 2013. they should be able to put your mind at rest.
regarding EWP I have mixed views, what happens if the pump dies, what happens if a nun jumps out in front of you etc etc
In order to fit EWP you would need to remove inlet manifold and waterpump anyway. at that point you could get the shaft (fnarr) hardness checked (yik yik) and then refit.
original design issues with the pump (crap quality of repro parts aside) was that the pump was near the top of the rad, therefore if the rad level drops the water pump runs dry
retrofitting a float switch to the rad / top hose and a warn light to the dash is an awful lot cheaper than the EWP setup
not dissing anyones ewp efforts or anything just saying that sometimes if it aint broke it doesnt need fixingLast edited by richardthestag; 2 March 2018, 13:12. Reason: edited to add glad you phoned robsport and are happier, it took me a long time to type my response :PStags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony
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richardthestag;n753788]
agree that it is good to be cautious after all if you bought any car with no service history you might give it a major service after buying.
That said if you have a robsport invoice for a waterpump then check with them that their pumps were recon back in 2013. they should be able to put your mind at rest.
regarding EWP I have mixed views, what happens if the pump dies, what happens if a nun jumps out in front of you etc etc
In order to fit EWP you would need to remove inlet manifold and waterpump anyway. at that point you could get the shaft (fnarr) hardness checked (yik yik) and then refit.
[[/QUOTE]QUOTE]original design issues with the pump (crap quality of repro parts aside) was that the pump was near the top of the rad, therefore if the rad level drops the water pump runs dry
retrofitting a float switch to the rad / top hose and a warn light to the dash is an awful lot cheaper than the EWP setup
not dissing anyones ewp efforts or anything just saying that sometimes if it aint broke it doesnt need fixing[/QUOTE]
Theres Mod to deal with that
Last edited by milothedog; 2 March 2018, 13:47.Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic
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is an awful lot cheaper than the EWP and/or HT setup
retrofitting a float switch to the rad / top hose and a warn light to the dash is an awful lot cheaper than the EWP setup
Theres Mod to deal with that
subtle enough?
I think I got away with that.
btw I do have a high level "expansion" tank with low level warning switch that is too high
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This Spring - when it stops snowing I am reverting to XR4i high level expansion tank setup with lower position for switch. oh and I can see how much is in it without taking the cap off
win winStags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony
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Matt i had a waterpump fail and was quite lucky because it caused the jackshaft to seize and the pin did its job as the weak point and broke stopping drive immediately to the disi. I then put a reconditioned pump from Robsport in. Robsport said they could only recondition pumps with the original drive gear so from that perspective you should stop worrying as many stags do very high miles on original pump. Now i got paranoid about it after that because i like to get home so now i have removed a perfectly good pump and fit the EWP from wards, its superb and adds a few bhp. The huge advantage the ewp has is that its programmed to run for a period after you switch off so together with an electric fan it circulates and cools as a modern. I believe this has to help everything over a time. Its straight firward and enjoyable job to fit. Worth the money definitely !
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It was fitted by a local garage with my instruction to them to buy the pump from the brothers. The failure was about 6 months after it was fitted. When they approached the supplier the supplier's response was "we don't have a problem with them on other triumphs". The supplier said he would want the pump, pump cover and jack shaft for inspection. He then said it could take several months to investigate. I could not get the engine rebuilt without the pump cover and did not want to wait several months without the car to only find they would not accept responsbility and possibly end up paying for the investigation. It was an expensive lesson but I will never deal with that particular supplier again.Originally posted by Lingen View PostDave.
If the R.B pump only lasted 250 miles, how come you had to pay for the rebuild?Dave.
Expert:- Ex is something that has been and spurt is a drip under pressure.
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Thanks for all the thoughts and wise words, I have for now decided (I think I've decided) to just give it a thorough service, all fluids etc. I'm also going to replace all the cooling hoses and give the cooling system a good flush and take it from there. Maybe an electric pump will be a project for next winter!
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HI matt if this is the first time that your engine has had a magnetic sump plug fitted after that engine rebuild , then it will probably look like a xmas tree when you remove it on the first oil change after fitting the plug, mine did after doing my head gaskets , chains etc. thought *uck but been ok the last 6 yrs. but this is what it's designed to do.Originally posted by Matt Cook View PostJust had a good chat with Robsport, feeling much better. He can't be sure but thinks it's a recon one. Have just fitted a magnetic sump plug so I will keep an eye on that too. He also said to stop reading the horror stories and enjoy it!!
"The UK,s 2nd Most Easterly Stag" Quad Exhaust- ZF 4 Speed BOX
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