Carb rebuild advice

[STypeR]

I am now on to reconditioning the carbs. A few queations:
I have acquired a few 175 CD fuel needle valves over the years and they are all different. Some have had little use but not sure if you can check the inner needles for wear or which of the few types around are more preferred. Or should I just to throw any used ones out?
All in the photo are from the 175CDSEV emmission carb found on most Aust and USA Stags which does not have the Bypass vale. The top valve in the photo I just bought new and genuine Made in UK Zenith VITON tip needle, the other 3 are a sample of the used ones I have and I am not sure of the brand.
Should I be using a preferred type of gasket cement (if any) on any of the carb/inlet manifold gaskets?
I have a spare set of carbs which have better looking/less wear on the piston metering needles which I think should be okay to replace?

I remember having hot starting issues straight after the last specialist workshop rebuild. They fixed this by removing entirely the float chamber emission port valves and I never had a problem since, even on the 40 degree days! So I decided not put these valves back but not sure if affects anything else?
Also what was odd on stripdown was that the Temperature Compensators both seem to have been adjusted to be left in a slightly open position. Should I re adjust these back, leave them where they are or could they have moved to this position over time?

Cheers,

[mole42]

This is a good place to start: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/techn...bsI/CarbsI.htm

Then buy the parts from Burlen: http://zenithcarb.co.uk/?___store=zenith

Temperature compensators are evil. But they can be tamed.

Richard

[dasadrew]

Hi John,

based on my experience gained by re-overhauling a set of "overhauled" carbs, I would ditch the old valves as, if anything turns out wrong after the rebuild you've introduced an unnecessary unknown into the equation.

The two websites which Richard has posted get my backing! The temperature compensators aren't too bad to do if you know how, and that information can be found on the Grampian Stags website: http://www.grampianstags.net/TCs.htm

A cautionary note concerning the float chamber gaskets: some are quite wide and come very close to the floats. I had some flooding which I am pretty sure came from the float getting caught on the gasket. There are gaskets around which are not so wide, but you could also trim off a sliver from the wider ones too to avoid any possibility of this occurring.

Definitely replace the seals on the needle and, before you re-install everything, check that the star washers are really pressed home and that needle really does extend and retract when turning the allen key brass adjuster - buy the tool to do this operation.

Be very precise about setting the float levels.

I used a very thin smear of Blue Hylomar on the float chamber gasket but make sure there will not be enough to be squeezed out and fall into the float chamber on re-assembly.

Drew

[mole42]

Thanks for reminding me of the Grampian Stags temp compensator page, Drew.

Also I suggest to replace the fuel valves with ball type. They seal much more repeatably than the older ones and prevent the fuel flooding out of the pipe onto the LH exhaust manifold....

[STypeR]

Thank you very much gents for your replies. Your specific advice from your experience is very usefull to me.
I had actually seen all the above 3 links and they are very good to get you started to get your head around how these nice, precision made air and fuel blending machines work! A bit like a Swiss watch and definately not as interesting looking at an EFI system...
The 3833 emmission carbs in most of our cars down here (and I think the USA) dont have the Bypass valve as mentioned. I would still be interested to see if anyone else has removed the float chamber port valves to cure the hot starting issue I had.