Advice needed on rear wheel stud fitting

[Stag About Town]

Hi All
I am just replacing a rear drive shaft having purchased a re-con shaft and hub from Robsport and I'm finding getting the studs right into place very difficult. I knocked the studs out of the old unit using an old wheel nut to tap on with a hammer. They were tight but all came out ok. The studs look to be in good condition with no spline damage but are a real pain to re-fit to the re-con hub. I can feel what seems to be the correct location and tap them in a bit but they are not fully in and seated. I have tried tapping from the back and pulling from the front using a collar under a wheel nut winding with a big spanner. No luck so far. Is there a knack to this? Any advice appreciated. The appearance of the internal splines, a bit flattish, is much the same on the old and the new hubs.

Thanks John

[len]

i have recently dome this on my TR6...all i did was tapped them in a bit and then put the wheel on....this pulled them up nicely.
Len

[Phil S]

a 4lb copper hammer should provide a sufficient tap
Phil

[len]

John
i have been thinking and i think i got mine to tighten up using a windy gun ....it was not by hand.
sorry to mislead you....have you got access to one ?
Len

[bullstarz]

Place the studs in the freezer for a day this will make them contract slightly . If poss warm the hub as this will expanded the holes. Then the cold studs will go in the warm hub with a lot less effort.

[MandM]

I put the stud in finding the best fit into the splines that were there, then added a spacer to the stud, fitted a 7/16 unf nut and pulled the stud in with a breaker bar, and torqued them up. P1080369.JPG the flat face on the spacer against the flange should pull the stud in square.

[Stag About Town]

John
i have been thinking and i think i got mine to tighten up using a windy gun ....it was not by hand.
sorry to mislead you....have you got access to one ?
Len

No problem Len. I finally got them in using the freezer method mentioned elsewhere in this post with a suitable big nut over the stud then an old wheel nut to wind them in. Took a turn or two with a long spanner to start off then tapped the spanner round with a mallet. I never expected this problem when changing a drive shaft but will know how if I ever have to do it again.
Thanks again and for all the other responses to my cry for help on this post.

John