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I'm mildly concerned about mine too. I remember when I first fitted an oil pressure gauge to "Dad's Stag" way back a few decades ago, it ran at ~ 50psi. A few thousand miles later (~20k) and idle is about 25psi and running hot is about 35psi (as far as I can make out from the gauge which only has marks at 25 and 50 (and beyond)).
Last oil change was with Millers Classic 20W/50 around 600 miles ago in 2016.
It just feels too low to me. I wasn't sure what the last oil change was but I was hoping it was going to be something thinner so that I had an excuse to change to the Valvoline VR1 that I'd bought just in case.
Hi Goldstar,
I've just done an oil and filter change replacing with VR1 as previous and the gauge seemed a little lower than I remember and slow to rise on it's first run. Under acceleration it's getting close to 3 bar (40 psi).
At tick over it drops to around 2 bar (30 psi).
I'm probably being paranoid but thouight I'd get the views of others.
idle pressure of 25psi is fine, but I would want to see about 45 psi above 2000rpm.
It might be the pressure relief valve spring has gone a bit weak, putting a thin washer between the spring and the cap will lift the pressure by about 10-15psi if everything else is ok with the engine. It won't change the idle pressure.
Neil
Neil
TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque
"It won't change the idle pressure" Oh yes it will - that trick was what first alerted me to the terrible design of the spring; it starts by-passing at less than 20psi. If one person watches the gauge, while another inserts a thin screwdriver tip under the split pin with the engine ticking over, you will see a pressure rise.
I'm not going to repeat the content of many previous posts, but you can search for the details.
I may need to re phrase the question now.
I've just started her up after the short trip yesterday and the oil pressure gauge didn't even start to move at first, which wasn't the case before.
Now, the car has the original paper filter in the bowl configuration, is it possible to incorrectly fit the filter, is the orientation of the filter insert important?
I know these may seem stupid questions but I guess they all are until you know the answer.
I understand that if you've got air in the pipe feeding the pressure gauge, then it can dampen the movement of the indication. Mine is always a bit delayed on moving up, and down, but it gets to a good place .
Yes, the metal insert in the paper filter I had facing the oil pump, it should be at the bottom of the bowl. Had I looked at the WSM first I wouldn't have had to get my hands dirty again.
I have never seen a metal insert in the paper filter. My filters have always been symmetrical. What is important is to make sure they are the correct type of filter - there should be a raised metal ring at each end.
In the late 1980's, Unipart started supplying filters with a flat metal end, and a cardboard ring 'stuck' to it. There were instances of the cardboard ring detaching, and sliding over the oil ports to block the flow. SOC were instrumental in getting Unipart to withdraw all stocks of these, and revert to the original design. Recently, some have been seen with a cardboard ring.
Hi David,
We may be at cross purposes here, so forgive me if I didn't explain myself well but if you look at the blown up image of the filter assembly on page 12.60.08 of the WSM it shows the component I'm talking about between the spring and the filter. Having cleaned everything post draining, I inadvertently placed that piece in the filter and offered it up towards the oil pump rather than the other way round.
OK, understand now. If you look at that drawing the top-most component is a clip, which fits into a groove on the bolt and holds all the components, with the spring under compression, onto the bolt. Normally you don't touch any of these when changing the filter; you just undo the bolt and hold the bowl, bolt, spring and washers together in one assembly while changing the filter.
OK, understand now. If you look at that drawing the top-most component is a clip, which fits into a groove on the bolt and holds all the components, with the spring under compression, onto the bolt. Normally you don't touch any of these when changing the filter; you just undo the bolt and hold the bowl, bolt, spring and washers together in one assembly while changing the filter.
Ah, I have no clip. The whole assembly just fell into the collection vessel disassembled. Is it crucial?
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