My very helpful garage are having a lot of trouble in stopping the water pump from leaking, they have tried to fit a new one from "the Brothers" and it keeps leaking, we are considering sending the new one back and by passing with an external pump but how do we plug the old area? I can't use the existing pump because it leaks as does the new one, is there a way of successfully plugging the original area?, Any help would be very much appreciated as they are losing their patience with the old boy???
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EJ Ward used to sell a bung to fit the old pump hole. If you fit an external (as I have) you will need to sort the heater supply. -
I used 2 core plugs.. as per the Craig Davis info.. not sure why everyone goes for the 50 quid bung??
Last edited by trunt; 13 June 2018, 22:41.Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware
www.terryhunt.co.ukComment
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Not thought of using core plugs, would think it better to use bung for future easy removal though.Comment
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I reasoned that it would be pretty unlikely I would want to go back to a standard pump and even getting to the bung/plugs (remove manifold etc.) would take a heck of a lot longer than the small amount of extra time removing them.. plus they are about 50p each!Originally posted by Stagdad View PostTerry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware
www.terryhunt.co.ukComment
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More fuel for the fire on how these new water pumps are sub-standard... Perhaps SOCTFL should look into funding manufacture of some decent ones?Originally posted by Harold74 View PostComment
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I have recently fitted an external pump, for me the issue was not the internal pump as such but the pain of removing the inlet manifold to gain access to the pump. A Wards bung in the kit did the business. I just wanted to do the job once and never have to remove the manifold again - ever!
AlanComment
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I may be stating the obvious here but does the garage know the correct procedure for shimming and fitting the Stag water pump ?
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Hi All, thanks for the response, the poor guy in the garage has watched every video, called a load of old retired mechanics with stag experience in and still no luck, I think we are going to by pass the pump now using a core plug or bung and try to get it back together. At least if the external one goes at any point you wont have to take the inlet manifold off which was character building. the manifold has been on and off so many times they are dab hands. Just need to get a refund on the new dodgy water pump, lets hope they are reasonable about it. once again thanks for the help, I will post if I get him back before winter!!Comment
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If I've read it correctly (and irrespective of your decision to change the original system) you've fitted two pumps and both leak? Yet you are convinced that it is the pump which is faulty? (and not a crack or score on a mating surface or a core plug or,or,or?). Sorry if I've read your first post wrongly.
DrewThe answer isn't 42, it's 1/137Comment
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Assuming you mean it's leaking externally and not into the sump, technically, the pump can't leak, it's the housing that leaks. Have you tried a new housing ?
Maybe you have a 12 vane housing and a 6 vane pump ?Comment
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The pump can leak past the seal, especially if the bottom side of the impeller is corroded, the pump will then leak through the “tell tale” slot in the top of the block, shouldn’t leak past the o right msg into the oil tho if they are new/decentComment
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The OP states this is a new pump from RB. Their website claims that the pumps are NEW and manufactured to correct hardness and tolerances. The impeller is fitted with a ceramic insert and uprated water seal. I find it hard to understand why, if the pump is as RB claim, the OP has had two pumps that leak due to them being faulty. If that is the case, then RBs QAQC is definitely suspect. Otherwise, there is something else contributing to the leak, as suggested by Drew above.
From RB website:
Product Description
Top quality pump manufactured in the UK to exceed Original Equipment specification, using original manufacturer's drawings.
The spindle is made to the correct hardness specification and all components are machined to exacting tolerances. The impeller has a ceramic surface insert and the pump is assembled using an upgraded water seal. Over 2000 pumps sold in the last 15 years. Please refer to the Inspection Procedure and Fitting Instructions sheet supplied with the pump, prior to installation and always refer to a workshop manual to ensure that the correct pump cover and shimming tolerances are adhered to. The bush in the engine block (145022) should also be changed.Dave
1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.Comment
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can I ask how long you run it for after fitting as in some cases it takes a few miles for the ceramic deal to bed in.Comment
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