Power Steering Mount Crumbles

[PhilM]

Hi, can any one offer advice on how to fix or an alternative mounting method for the top outer bolt socket on the Power Steering Pump. I have had to remove the pump a couple of times and the first time the bolt would not fully tighten, this time the mounting socket crumbled in two places leaving the internal coil, this only leaves the inner top mount and the adjustable mount to fully secure the pump.

All ideas welcome

Thanks Phil

[Phil S]

you can get a body type filler called Devcon from good engineering suppliers. this comes as a metal based product so make sure you get the ally type. very string and can be drilled and tapped..expect to pay around £30 for a tin...but very good...use brake cleaner to remove any oil or grease first.
Phil

[Phil S]

strong..not string

[dickr]

you might also consider this

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/aluminium-repair-starter-kit/#reviews

needs heat but is reported to be strong.
Dick

[barkerwilliams]

Aluminium heads can be welded, As the position is accessible why not visit an engineering shop and see if it could be built up and re-drilled in situ.

Ps :- was the bolt too long? A bolt bottoming out does that to the material.

Alan

[mole42]

you might also consider this

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/alum...r-kit/#reviews

My experience with repairing aluminium castings suggests that it would be VERY difficult to get a suitable repair unless you used oxy-acetylene to heat the metal. Aluminium wicks the heat away so fast that the local area takes ages to heat to welding temperature. I would not expect the Machine Mart material to hold at all.

As Alan said, get a local on-site welding person to repair the head and get it re-drilled accurately. You should get away without removing the cylinder head, although, of course, that would be the better option!

Richard

[rwdstag]

With the cam cover off can you not get a nut on the back of the bolt if you have drilled a hole all the way thaven’t thought that idea through

[PhilM]

Gents,
Thanks that's good advice, my first choice would be to have it welded (mobile welder) and then tap it, which I will set about doing.

Alan, you may have hit the nail on the head there, as I noticed the failed bolt had two spacer washers, where the other mount doesn't. So a previous owner has used the wrong bolt
Many Thanks Phil

[barkerwilliams]

Phil,

Beware, washers on pully bolts are used to "square" or align the pully up to the crankshaft pully. Once you have fitted the alternator or power steering pump line up the pully with a longish straight edge (a steel rule is good, but owt better than nowt) fully in contact with the pully at its widest point avoiding the bolt! extending down to the crank pully and see if it all lines up. A misaligned belt still seems to work well then poof one day wrapped around the engine fan and gouging holes in the radiator.

There are so many bolt lengths, even in the same casting, on Triumphs that I routinely use the thin depth gauge on a slide micrometer before choosing a bolt. Some are surprisingly deep.

Alan