engine timing

[Andes]

I’ve just replaced the inlet manifold gaskets and had to helicoil a few holes. In order to do this I had to remove the distributor to get to one of them. I’ve now put the distributor back and I now need to set the timing, my question is even though the book says 12 degrees BTDC for my particular engine, as I replaced the points with electronic timing should the timing be different?
Also is it advisable to adjust whilst the engine is running as long as I wear appropriate gloves?

[jbuckl]

Same timing & yes adjust when running. you need an offset 7/16" spanner bent to reach the screws though.

[Andes]

Cheers jbuckl

[DJT]

Don't forget it is timed off cylinder No 2, which is the front one on the LH head.

[Andes]

Thanks DJT

[Mark Serj]

Andes, you didn't mention if you have a Mk1 or Mk2 as IIRC the Mk1 is 14 DBTDC and the Mk2 is 12?

Regards

[Andes]

Hi Mark, it’s a mk2

[Guest]

All this is totally irrelevant because the springs which retain the bob weights in the base will be worn out.
If you go by the book you invariably end up with an engine desperately retarded... and then you have to watch out the mark on the pulley ACTUALLY is the genuine TDC
(favourite on Jag V12s too....the multiple belts pull on the damper continually in one direction dragging the timing mark away from the true position).


If you want to time an engine in properly, you do it by checking true TDC, then going for max advance at say 4000rpm (WITHOUT VAC CONNECTION!).
This is the way we always do it on a rolling road or engine dyno.

You go for peak torque at 3500rpm-4000rpm, swing the dizzy in, then ignore all the rest.

[Mark Serj]

Hi Graham,

I have checked my pulley indicator mark is showing accurately at TDC using a DTI. So what max advance should I aim for at 4000 rpm on a MK1 engine please?

Regards

Mark

[Andes]

Is it easy to access and change the springs and weights?

[richardthestag]

Is it easy to access and change the springs and weights?

the springs are under the baseplate inside the distributor. fairly easy to do it on the bench. I doubt you would need to change the weights but the springs will stretch / weaken with age.

I talked to distributor doctor (google him) regarding rover v8 distributor parts, he is very useful

[Andes]

Cheers

[Tim Ward]

I replaced my springs as mentioned above. [did them in situ] They had worn and were giving a false reading. It always struggled to rev over 4 k in the higher gears, seems a lot better now. I realised the springs had worn because when the engine was revved the timing marks hardly moved when using the strobe. Tim

[Andrew S]

I have timed my MK2 for 14 degrees based on the fact that I am running unleaded and lower octane. I was advised to do this by one of the specialist.
The springs are straight forward to fit by fiddly and make sure you have a magnet for when you drop one One spring is weaker than the other I believe which kicks one of the weights out first.
What do others time theirs up to? 12 or 14?

[Mark Serj]

OK stupid question of the day here - with electronic ignition such as Lumenition, I assume there are no springs involved as it's all done by witchcraft by the box with the magic in it?