Help please re anti rollbar links

[Stag About Town]

I am just replacing my anti roll bar bushes and thought I may as well change the links at the same time. I bought two from Rimmers and found the ball joints to be very tight, hard to move at all by hand. Rimmers say this is normal and they will ease up when on the car. The old ones have movement but do not appear to have any play that I can feel. Not sure to stay with the old ones or fit the new pair. Any advice will be appreciated. Also do I make the final torque settings when the car is back on it's wheels? Many thanks in advance. John

[Phil S]

why do the job twice...fit the new ones and put the old ones on the shelf just in case...they will loosen in use.
Phil

[Stag About Town]

Thanks Phil. I was just a bit unsure about how much movement they need and if they were over tight. Will take your advice . John

[Hettiherald]

Hi john. There are two types of anti roll bar links, the original ones ate a metalastic type where the balls are encased in rubber that “gives” with the roll bar movement, not a true ball joint . The updated ones are true ball joints, that require modification of the lower mounting. What type do you have??? Dave.

[new to this]

Hi john. There are two types of anti roll bar links, the original ones ate a metalastic type where the balls are encased in rubber that “gives” with the roll bar movement, not a true ball joint . The updated ones are true ball joints, that require modification of the lower mounting. What type do you have??? Dave.

When you say upraded anti roll bar links,are they poly,did you buy them from Paddocks and what mods are needed,asking as I've bought some but not fitted yet,was also going to use one as an engine steady bar on the sprint

Dave

[Hettiherald]

No polly on the links. The polly bushes are the two mounts that attach the links to the roll bar. If you have the updated joints, they should come with an ally spacer that has an offset hole to give clearance on the lower mount on the drag link. The mounting hole needs to be enlarged to allow the spacer to fit. Dave.

[new to this]

No polly on the links. The polly bushes are the two mounts that attach the links to the roll bar. If you have the updated joints, they should come with an ally spacer that has an offset hole to give clearance on the lower mount on the drag link. The mounting hole needs to be enlarged to allow the spacer to fit. Dave.

Thanks for the update,mine sound different from yours,I'll have to recheck mine

Thanks Dave

[Stag About Town]

Hi john. There are two types of anti roll bar links, the original ones ate a metalastic type where the balls are encased in rubber that “gives” with the roll bar movement, not a true ball joint . The updated ones are true ball joints, that require modification of the lower mounting. What type do you have??? Dave.

Hi Dave Mine are the original type and I have bought standard one from Rimmers which look the same. John

[Hettiherald]

Hi john. Your links will appear to be stiff and not move. This is fine and normal, fit and worry not!
Dave

[Stag About Town]

Hi john. Your links will appear to be stiff and not move. This is fine and normal, fit and worry not!
Dave

Hi Dave. Thanks very much for that, makes sense at last. Pity Rimmers didn't mention that when I phoned them with the query. Another problem I have as now raised in a new post concerns the difficulty getting the off side U bolt up past the oil cooler metal pipes. I find this a bit of a chinese puzzle. If you have any info on how to do that job it would be great. The nearside U bolt took about 30 seconds to position but the off side is proving un unbelieveable pain in the wotsit. John

[Hettiherald]

The only advice I could give on that problem is to persivere. Probably had some new pipes on at some time that don’t follow the correct route. If I recall, I had a bit of a struggle with mine as well. You could disconnect the cotton reel mount on that side and move the cooler out of the way of the bolt. Dave.

[Stag About Town]

The only advice I could give on that problem is to persivere. Probably had some new pipes on at some time that don’t follow the correct route. If I recall, I had a bit of a struggle with mine as well. You could disconnect the cotton reel mount on that side and move the cooler out of the way of the bolt. Dave.

Thanks Dave. It did suddenly line up somehow after trying for ages then dropped out before I could get a nut on. Back to square one and doing battle again today. Just doesn't seem possible that someone could design something so silly turning a straightforward job into a marathon. John