Alternative carbs, e.g. Stagweber, Holley

[Paul Kelley]

My Strombergs are quite worn and, whilst OK, have given me some issues. I'm considering the options which seem to be: refurbished Strombergs, Stagweber conversion, or Holley conversion. Costs seem to be more-or-less the same, around the £450 mark. Anyone with experience of the alternatives and whether significantly better than replacing the Strombergs? Any downsides? Many thanks.

Paul

[mike@thenook]

Hi Paul,

if you look under Holley/stagweber in the search bar you will get a whole host of comments and suggestions on both;

From personal experience I went from Stroms to a Holley and back to stroms having re-built them myself and fitted them with uprated springs and needles - the Holley is in my mind too difficult to get set-up properly plus needs extra plumbing catch tanks etc to make it work without breathing problems.

To do the job properly it would cost you a lot more than the cost of having your stroms properly rebuilt - that would go for the weber kit too.

[barkerwilliams]

I did the Stag Weber conversion. Probably took 20 minutes to fit, turned the ignition on for a few seconds to fill with fuel and the car started first pull. When hot adjusted the two tickover screws. That was it, car runs and starts very well. Just so quick, and fool proof- great value for money highly recommended.

I had had the Strombergs rebuilt and balanced and the car ran fairly well, but I was not convinced so made the swap, car is just so much smoother and better on the Weber.

Alan

[dasadrew]

Paul,

in a nutshell, Mike has it right. It's one of the most discussed - and very emotive - subjects on the Forum and it has ended in tears several times.

If you take a few days to trawl through all of the posts, I feel safe in saying that you will find advantages and disadvantages of all three solutions.

As I was going for originality, the question of changing the carbs never arose for me and I'm happy with the Strombergs (although it was a bit tedious to get to the end of the road!)

If you fit a different carb, the immediate potential disadvantage that you will have is if a problem arises, for then you have a much reduced probability of finding someone with a Stag with the same problem.

Probably unfair to recommend as my path was already decided, but the plethora of information and instructions available for Strombergs is very comforting, even if their design might not make it to the top of the class.

Drew

[stag8manod]

Approx, 5 years ago I fitted a 4 barrel Eidelbrock carb. A kit made by another club member. Absolutely brilliant, easy to fit, easy to tune, turn the key and it starts and runs perfectly. Very well pleased with it.
Cheers Ian A

[PJB]

My very worn Strombergs were replaced with a Weber about 3 months ago. Simpler, easier to access and adjust for the same cost (in NZ).

the engines performance is markedly better but to be fair as I said the strombergs had had it so hardly a fair comparison.

One real benefit. No more cruddy manual choke.

[Richard G]

I love my Weber!

[DJT]

Rebuilt my Strombergs 10 years (35,000 miles) ago. Still starts first time, runs smoothly, with decent fuel economy and emissions within spec. I see no reason to change.

[Paul Kelley]

Ah, another one of our touchy subjects I can now clearly see, having trawled back!! Many thanks to all who have replied and I propose closing the thread to avoid starting WW3!! I'll go and lie down in a darkened room and weigh up the pros and cons. Once you see the white smoke you'll know I have reached a decision!
Thanks again.
Paul

[mjheathcote]

Holley last 23 years.
A few initial issues, but fine since.
However I wouldn't if doing it again, a basic 'Holley pattern' EFI kit can be had for around a grand, and I would do that.

[Bandit1200]

I fitted Weber 2 yrs ago.
Better performance, easier starting, no balancing issues, easy to fit and much improved accessibility without airbox so cam covers can be removed without messing about with airbox and elbows.
Steve

[STypeR]

Hi Paul,

if you look under Holley/stagweber in the search bar you will get a whole host of comments and suggestions on both;

From personal experience I went from Stroms to a Holley and back to stroms having re-built them myself and fitted them with uprated springs and needles - the Holley is in my mind too difficult to get set-up properly plus needs extra plumbing catch tanks etc to make it work without breathing problems.

To do the job properly it would cost you a lot more than the cost of having your stroms properly rebuilt - that would go for the weber kit too.

Mike, you mentioned 'uprated springs and needles'. Curious to know what you have used here as I have just rebuilt my Strombergs but only with stock needles and springs.
My first attempt ever at a carb rebuild and all went fine. There was an amazing amount of information available on here as well as many other sources which made the job quite pleasant and relatively easy with ease of obtaining parts as well.
They are definitely a precise instrument and well engineered in my opinion.
I did buy a Holley years ago but doing a full rebuild on the vehicle takes up enough of my time and I just did not have the energy to go down there; getting cold air (in a hot climate) to the Holley too was going to be a challenge as well.

[trunt]

Strombergs for me!


I spent a heck of a lot of time tuning an SU carb for my Mini Turbo project and went much further into the subject than is healthy, so a few observations. A disclaimer is that I actually like these carbs and have the T shirt!

On the springs there is no real "uprated" spring. The best spring is the one that fully opens when the engine is gulping the maximum air. If its not fully open (strong spring) its choking the engine, or worse using the wrong part of the needle. If it is fully open before that (soft spring) its not going to give you any more from that point.. Needles should be shaped to provide maximum power when needed or economy when not through the whole driving range. So when you are cruising the spring allows the piston to raise to a certain point and the needle at that point needs to provide the correct mixture, same when you are accelerating, the piston will rise a lot higher and the needle at that point will need to provide the correct mixture, maybe richer now for acceleration.
Of course the damper oil is a factor, it slows the rise of the piston when you first floor it, choking the engine which draws more fuel in, providing immediate enrichment for power until the piston raises enough to provide it via the needle profile.

Its a real delicate balance, and a mechanical marvel!

I spent many months polishing needle shapes and playing with springs but fully intend doing the same when I get the Stag on the road, the added challenge of dual carbs will be fun!

anyone interested can read about my SU madness on my website

http://www.terryhunt.co.uk/tech/picsb/pics.htm

[STypeR]

Well done Terry and a great site mate! Have not been on there for a while and some nice progress on your Stag.
Definitely a healthy obsession on the carbs and great info posted, much which I am sure will apply to the Stromberg's.
We all have our passions and I have grown very fond of the Stromberg's as well and as I have mentioned a lot easier for me to reco and fit these back when tackling a full rebuild. It was pleasing to learn how they work and It will be interesting to see how you go and hear your feedback on the Stromberg's compared to the SU's.
I have yet to start the fully rebuilt spare Stag V8 engine I dropped in my car (I will rebuild the original matching engine as well and keep that aside) as I have yet to fit the exhaust, fuel lines and recondition the fuel tank. Two lots of lines/pipes running from the tank (on the emission cars) to the engine bay and I would be Interested to see if you or others have any tips on installing these. I have just resprayed them. They are not as easy as I suspected as over the years they have been bent slightly out of alignment which makes it harder. I should have fitted them before I dropped the engine and tranny in..
Between my brother in law and I we ended up with about 4 pairs of Stromberg's so I had plenty of bits I could pilfer but my original ones were fine to rebuild.
A triple Stromberg set up was put to particularly good use in an Australian GM product; Holden Torana (based on a GM UK product). Modified extensively for local use and with the local designed 3.3 LTR 6 cylinder engine. Restored values around 50,000 pounds.

[mike@thenook]

Mike, you mentioned 'uprated springs and needles'. Curious to know what you have used here as I have just rebuilt my Strombergs but only with stock needles and springs.
My first attempt ever at a carb rebuild and all went fine. There was an amazing amount of information available on here as well as many other sources which made the job quite pleasant and relatively easy with ease of obtaining parts as well.
They are definitely a precise instrument and well engineered in my opinion.
I did buy a Holley years ago but doing a full rebuild on the vehicle takes up enough of my time and I just did not have the energy to go down there; getting cold air (in a hot climate) to the Holley too was going to be a challenge as well.

These are the uprated needles and springs from www.Burlen.co.uk:

Piston return Spring	B18278
B1FJ Metering Needle	B27272