Engine Mount Replacement - engine with tubular manifolds

[StagnJag]

Has anyone on here had to tackle and engine mount change on an engine with tubular manifolds fitted?

My passenger side one is looking iffy but I can't get the sodding thing out! This is the closest I've been for a long time to admitting defeat. I abandoned the car on Sunday, closed the garage door and walked away!

I've changed the mounts before but it might have been before my engine was rebuild and the tubular manifolds were fitted. I've unbolted the mount itself and the bracket to the block but it gets trapped against the manifold and I can't see how to wiggle it out. I know from a previous job that at least one of the manifold to block bolts is seized and I don't want to make the situation worse by snapping a bolt in the block as I don't have the means to take the engine out.

I've taken a couple of bolts out of the mount on the other side in the hope that I can raise the engine a bit more but I don't know how far I can push the engine up, it seems to be bringing the suspension up with it at the moment so I don't think that's an option. The bottom of the sump is roughly level with the bottom of the front cross member, is that as far as I can expect it to go?

I've also unbolted the steering rack and moved it a bit to see if I can get a bit more access, but that hasn't helped much either. I might have to take it out completely to get the drivers side bolts back in as access is terrible.

My current thoughts are to admit defeat put it back together and take it to a garage and get them to sort it or...

try removing the steering rack completely to gain access to the drivers side mount and see if I can remove that. Then hopefully, shove the engine slightly to the drivers side to make a bit more room on the passenger side to sort that mount out, than shove it back again to put the the mount back on the drivers side. What I don't want to do is keep unbolting stuff in a futile assumption that it will help! I was getting right stressed about it on Sunday afternoon! I had it in my head that it would be a relatively straight forward job!

Has anyone else had to tackle this and how did you get on?

The car is on ramps at the mo, I was incredibly lucky I could shut my garage door on Sunday, there is about 1/4" between the front No. plate and the door!

Regards

Dave

[mike@thenook]

Hi Dave,

when I did mine (and I have tubulars) it was tricky but I got the both off without taking the brackets off the block.

I undid the bolts on both sides using a socket on the front and another on the back of each mount bolt but I think too I used a flexible joint on the rear of the bolts. Also, I jacked up the engine slightly on the middle of the sump front (where the bolts go through) using a block of wood so as not to damage - this helps to get a little more clearance.

I have to admit it is very fiddly and if your fingers are a little on the large size that can make it worse!

Hope this helps..

Mike

[rwdstag]

Just remove the cross member let the rack drop or remove it
loads of access then
replace the bushes while you are at it also weld the cross
member bolts to the spacers as they are a pain to do back up

Believe me it so much easier
good luck
Rich

[StagnJag]

Hi Guys, thank you for your replies. It is encouraging to find out it is at least possible!

I think I'm going to remove the steering rack, it's already unbolted from the cross member which should give me a bit more room. Removing the cross member isn't an option at the moment as the car is on its wheels and up on ramps. We had our N&N and someone has offered to help so hopefully we can make some progress at the weekend.

The bushes are fine, I poly bushed it a few years ago and sadly welding isn't an option for me, it is a big hole in my skill set! I intend to rectify that one day but I have enough on my plate at the moment.

Cheers

Dave

[mike@thenook]

Good luck Dave, hope it all works out for you with ease

cheers

[Stagdad]

Dave it's probably nothing to do with you having tubulars now fitted, your just a lot older this time around