BW35 Inhibitor switch

[Andrew S]

Quick question, is it easy and accessible to replace the inhibitor switch on the Stag BW35 box?
Do you need to adjust anything with them or just screw in and secure?

Cheers
Andrew

[marshman]

Straight forward accessible via small cover plate on passenger side if transmision tunnel. It is a bit fiddely as access is tight. Yes it needs adjusting as per the ROM to ensure correct operation of the inhibitor and reverse light switch.

Roger

[Andrew S]

Cheers Roger
A bit of reading up beforehand then
Cheers
Andrew

[SteveD]

My BW35 inhibitor switch is not working. With my new automatic switch I can't get the plunger to come out to 9/16" as required. It looks like I'll have to buy another switch.

I am I correct in thinking that with the white/red wires disconnected and isolated the car should not start in gear? The car starts, has a PO bypassed the switch somewhere? If so, where would be the best place to look for the bypass? The ROM wiring diagram is very short on detail of this area.

Steve.

[Alacrity]

My BW35 inhibitor switch is not working. With my new automatic switch I can't get the plunger to come out to 9/16" as required. It looks like I'll have to buy another switch.

I am I correct in thinking that with the white/red wires disconnected and isolated the car should not start in gear? The car starts, has a PO bypassed the switch somewhere? If so, where would be the best place to look for the bypass? The ROM wiring diagram is very short on detail of this area.

Steve.

Red/white wires, if disconnected, should prevent engine start, if not, the switch is bypassed. If you have the type with the short thread that butts up to the case then you should be able to pull the pin out - 14mm is the setting dimension. If you have a longer thread with a lock nut then you won't pull the pin out. They are simple to set but folk do seem to have a lot of issues.

BEWARE - there are some rubbish switches out there that have flats on the threads that can be hard to stop leaking & these have also been known to leak through the switch (there should be no oil in the switch).

[SteveD]

Thanks, that's what I thought, I'll have to hunt the bypass.
Regarding the switch, it's the one with the nut and apparently the projecting bit doesn't project enough. I've tried the suggested method of pushing the bit in and releasing many times but this makes no difference, it still only projects about half the required amount of 9/16". Has anyone else had this problem or is just me?
Steve.

[Alacrity]

I can look when back at work Monday, I have a few there.

[SteveD]

Thanks, I'll be interested in what you find. I'm still looking for the bypass, I don't see it at the ignition switch end.
Steve.

[SteveD]

I may have found a clue to the BW35 Inhibitor bypass. I have a relay near the inertia cut out wired as follows:-
85 - black cable, earth
30 - 2 x white/red cable, one from the inertia cut out
86- white/red able
87 - white cable
87a - purple cable

I don't know yet what is powered from this relay or where the cables come from or go to apart from the white/red one from the cut out.and the earth.

The wiring diagram shows the cut out with a white/light green cable which is present but the white one is replaced with the white/red one.

The only white/red cable shown on the wiring diagram goes from the ignition switch via the inhibitor to the starter.

Before I start taking the wiring apart has anyone got an idea of what the relay is doing.

Thanks,

Steve.

[StagJonno]

The pin-out in this might help https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electri...in-30-amp.

Be aware that white wires are ignition controlled, originating at the ignition switch and are unfused, so ensure connectors are well insulated to avoid fire risk.

[KOY 23]

The pin-out in this might help https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electri...in-30-amp.

Be aware that white wires are ignition controlled, originating at the ignition switch and are unfused, so ensure connectors are well insulated to avoid fire risk.

Quite correct for OE wiring but this relay is an aftermarket addition, where convention is not necessarily followed and certainly not in this case.

The wires need to be traced to see what’s happening.

[SteveD]

The relay was nothing to do with the inhibitor switch which I have now got working and the reversing light also works .

The PO had wired the ignition switch direct to the solenoid thus bypassing the switch. I now have a bypass bypassing the original bypass and including the inhibitor . The inhibitor switch was a pain to adjust correctly but I got it working more by luck than good judgement. Some day I will get around to removing both the bypass wirings and take it back to original, but I'll probably need a new ignition switch and all that that entails.

Steve.