Rolled my Stag..

[trunt]

Well kinda..

Thanks to those that posted pics and answered my questions I was able to fabricate a Rotisserie, its based on engine stands plus some wheels from a Cat Scanner delivery. The wheels will lower down to move it around but I need to link the bases before I do that,

[STypeR]

That looks good! Great resourceful idea!

[jakesmig]

Excellent stuff. You'll be amazed at how much easier working on the car is with that kit.

[mike@thenook]

Great idea!

[TR5convalescent]

Brilliant piece of improvisation, Terry. I think tying them together before moving it about is a good idea.

David

[trunt]

Excellent stuff. You'll be amazed at how much easier working on the car is with that kit.

Yup.. when I did the mini I just threw a couple of sofa cushions on the floor and rolled it over on them. The stag is a bit heavier!!

[new to this]

Im getting mine ready to go on the chassis tilter, im making up bracing bars for doors openings and boot area

Dave

[trunt]

Im getting mine ready to go on the chassis tilter, im making up bracing bars for doors openings and boot area

Dave

Considered that did not bother as the structure is as sound as it gets on a 45 year old car, aside from some pinholes in the sills its structure is solid, I even went inside the sills with a scope and its fine inside. First job is to repair the windscreen where the T bar screws into it as it was damaged as I was trying to get those damn pozidrive screws out. then I'll at least get the T bar back on. The only place that does need a structural repair is the cross-member under the transmission tunnel that was attacked by the PO with a sawzall. I have a piece cut from another car for that. Aside from that its just front and rear valances, a small patch of Swiss on front lower left wing and the passenger floor/bulkhead has a 2-3 inch hole (which always means 5-6 inches once you clean it up) I am still scratching my head on the bad rust under the rear seat area, but once that's all done I plan to strip it underneath and apply epoxy paint followed by 3M rocker Schultz then a colour coat. I did that on the Mini and it looked great and was very durable.

[davidf]

I opened this thread with great concern, fearing that there would be photos of the underside of a Stag as seen through a recently-made gap in a hedge.

All good !!

[new to this]

Considered that did not bother as the structure is as sound as it gets on a 45 year old car, aside from some pinholes in the sills its structure is solid, I even went inside the sills with a scope and its fine inside. First job is to repair the windscreen where the T bar screws into it as it was damaged as I was trying to get those damn pozidrive screws out. then I'll at least get the T bar back on. The only place that does need a structural repair is the cross-member under the transmission tunnel that was attacked by the PO with a sawzall. I have a piece cut from another car for that. Aside from that its just front and rear valances, a small patch of Swiss on front lower left wing and the passenger floor/bulkhead has a 2-3 inch hole (which always means 5-6 inches once you clean it up) I am still scratching my head on the bad rust under the rear seat area, but once that's all done I plan to strip it underneath and apply epoxy paint followed by 3M rocker Schultz then a colour coat. I did that on the Mini and it looked great and was very durable.

Yes i was going to paint the under side with epoxy paint, ive got a passengers wing to fit before it goes on the tilter, then ill turn it to make it easier to repair the boot floor

Dave

[trunt]

I installed the T bar last night and released the crossmember from the tunnel metal. Rather surprisingly due to the extra weight of the T bar I am struggling to rotate now at certain points. Once the cross member is repaired I think it's coming off again, it installed really easily so there is little body distortion there, I think it will be ok.

[trunt]

Here's the messed up cross-member

[new to this]

I installed the T bar last night and released the crossmember from the tunnel metal. Rather surprisingly due to the extra weight of the T bar I am struggling to rotate now at certain points. Once the cross member is repaired I think it's coming off again, it installed really easily so there is little body distortion there, I think it will be ok.

I notice the packing you fitted to the front bumper mounting bracket,is that wood, did you also use packing for the rear bracket and are they the same size,I've just made mine for the front

Dave

[trunt]

(New post to add pics)

Yes, front and rear. I used some 2x4, small pieces for the front - pretty straightforward. At the rear I had to space the metal bar away from the curve of the rear valance so had to make "wedges" to align it and even drill the bolt hole through the support bar at a slight angle.