diaster waiting to happen

[alan230752]

i decided to fix my small inlet manifold leak by replacing the gaskets,while everthing was all stripped down,thought i would check the pump oil seal as there was evidence of oil in the vee in the pump area

bloody hell i thought afer removing pump
both the pump and jackshaft teeth are like razor edges

knackered I think
Now i have a spare jackshaft and a spare pump which are both good
but i think it would be more sensible to get rid of the pump and fit the davies graig ewp110
less work than taking all the chains out etc,then worry if pump shaft is hardened enough
so question is have i got this right after looking at other threads

1. fit pump on bottom hose(my alternator was repositioned ages ago)
2. buy extra angle ,for ease of fitting
3. put in tee piece in r/h head to marry up in heater pipe
4.fit sensor for contoller in l/h head transfer
5.couple contoller to my electric fan
6. drill 3 or 4 8mm holes in thermostat
bung up the existing hole in water pump and fit cover
7. fix auxillary pump for heater pump on inlet hose

thanks

alan

[Stagdad]

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Hi Alan

Just had mine apart as mine is easy to get at at the moment and my water pump is also razor sharp although the jack shaft looks fine .I'm now thinking along the EWP lines aswell.

The only difference i'm thinking about is not to have a second pump but run a new heater return down to the inlet side of the new pump and not drill the thermostat.

Cheers Steve

[flying farmer]

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When I fitted an electric pump to a dolly sprint engine a few years ago all that was needed was to block the thermostat bypass (under the foot of the thermostat) ,easily done with a piece of dry wood as this swells and locks in tight when it gets wet. Alternatively remove the bypass hose and plug the pipe with something- a much easier option that was not possible with the sprint

One eighth inch hole in the thermostat is adequate to get enough circulation for the thermostat to function, any more and the engine will never warm up. The return pipe for the heater needs to be plumbed in between the radiator and the EWP, this can most easily be done by using a piece of scrapyard hose with the T ready moulded in- cuts down on the number of hose clips needed. With this set up an extra pump and temperature control unit are not needed.

I ran the pump through an old ceramic ignition system ballast resistor to cut down the speed and electricity consumption of the pump. I was going to link this into the electric fan supply so the pump would get full voltage when extra cooling was needed. Inever got round to doing it as it never was needed, though I would on the stag as there is a lot more engine to cool.

If my water pump ever packs up this will be the way it gets sorted.

Neil

[alan230752]

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just to add to this
I spent all saturday and today
removing radiator ,front cover and jackshaft
I have now replaced the jackshaft with a known good one and also the water pump
i overhauled the water pump with a new brass ball bearing from l d parts and new oil seals etc
i also fitted ceramic disc to impellor after machening to suit
i used wellseal for the inlet manifold payden gaskets after bonding to inlet manofold overnight and used all new bolts
i converted the radiator for the header tank while it was off
changed the oil and filter,drained block flushed out
the vee is now dry of both oil and water
with the header tank I now have not got no hard hoses
system runs at 90 celcius ,pacet fan not come on yet,proberbly will when weather improves
electric pump is on the back burner for the time ,as funds are low
and i had the parts i needed to solve my problem,and time and labour was free

alan

[alan_thomas]

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A couple of pics how I fitted mine, no need for a second pump for the heater circuit. Heater tee'd into bypass return and then hose down to input side of pump works very well with quick warmup and full heater flow. old heater return pipe on pump housing was first just blocked off now sawn off and welded up - Alan

1 of 2

[alan_thomas]

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alan_thomas wrote:

A couple of pics how I fitted mine, no need for a second pump for the heater circuit. Heater tee'd into bypass return and then hose down to input side of pump works very well with quick warmup and full heater flow. - Alan

1 of 2

2 of 2 - Alan

[alan230752]

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alan_thomas wrote:

alan_thomas wrote:

A couple of pics how I fitted mine, no need for a second pump for the heater circuit. Heater tee'd into bypass return and then hose down to input side of pump works very well with quick warmup and full heater flow. - Alan

1 of 2

2 of 2 - Alan

reckon i can copy that idea when i buy a pump in the near future
what did you do with the thermostat?
alan

[Stagdad]

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alan230752 wrote:

i used wellseal for the inlet manifold payden gaskets after bonding to inlet manofold overnight

Alan ,

What did you bond them with?

Cheers Steve

[alan230752]

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stag wellseal

alan

[alan230752]

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alan230752 wrote:

stag wellseal

alan

just re read this,does sound confusing,

i used stag wellseal on the inlet manifold and gaskets,let it tack off for 10 minutes then I positioned them on the manifold and used the inlet manifold bolts with some nuts and a metal plate i had made up to secure.
on fitting the manifold to the heads i simply used wellseal again and tacked off for 10 minutes before assembly
i did have the advantage that my inlet manifold was a good fit ,as i had only just removed it,it just that it leaked

now all is fine I HOPE

Alan

[Stagdad]

imported post

alan230752 wrote:

alan230752 wrote:

stag wellseal

alan

just re read this,does sound confusing,

i used stag wellseal on the inlet manifold and gaskets,let it tack off for 10 minutes then I positioned them on the manifold and used the inlet manifold bolts with some nuts and a metal plate i had made up to secure.
on fitting the manifold to the heads i simply used wellseal again and tacked off for 10 minutes before assembly
i did have the advantage that my inlet manifold was a good fit ,as i had only just removed it,it just that it leaked

now all is fine I HOPE

Alan

Thanks Alan ,makes sence now