Lift Stag with rubber blocks under sills.

[Markvh]

Hi, Probably a strange question but I hope it can be answered. The Stag is lifted on a scissor lift with the rubber blocks positioned under the front floor outriggers and under the rear subframe arms.
The rubber blocks are really designed to be placed under the sill edges at the jacking points, I guess on modern cars. My question is, is it OK to also lift the Stag at the jacking points under the sills? The sills are sound.
Thanks,
Mark

[Hughesy]

The car is designed to be lifted by a scissor jack at these jacking points so if all sound and internal reinforcing brackets are still fitted, you should be fine if you must! I have new sills and brackets but still don't lift from these points, I still use the outriggers and subframe arms.

[Ritchie6]

I'm presuming you have something similar to these which is the type of thing I use on my trolley jack...…https://www.amazon.co.uk/DEDC-Univer...+rubber+blocks

The Stag is a heavy car,around 1 1/4 tons and I personally wouldn't dream of jacking it up on the sills. I use either the chassis or sometimes the cross member under the sump if I need both front wheels off the ground.

Richard

[new to this]

I'm presuming you have something similar to these which is the type of thing I use on my trolley jack...…http://www.amazon.co.uk/DEDC-Univers...+rubber+blocks

The Stag is a heavy car,around 1 1/4 tons and I personally wouldn't dream of jacking it up on the sills. I use either the chassis or sometimes the cross member under the sump if I need both front wheels off the ground.

Richard

I bought some rubber blocks simular to that,but there not really big enough for what i wanted,( still looking for the right size blocks to use ) i want to put them under the sill,i have already upgraded my jacking points,so the car could be lifted on the sill

Dave

[mole42]

The Stag is a heavy car,around 1 1/4 tons and I personally wouldn't dream of jacking it up on the sills. I use either the chassis or sometimes the cross member under the sump if I need both front wheels off the ground.

Richard

The sill jacking points are adequate for the job. Mine rolled off the jack recently and came to rest on an axle stand which was under the rear jacking point. A hefty bang but no damage to the sill.

The only time that sill jacking points are not strong enough is when the sills are corroded or not properly repaired.

[Ritchie6]

Of course I always use axle stands,as I'm sure many of us do. I got a pair from Halfords and I think they were about £15 including delivery which I thought was a good deal,especially as our nearest branch is 20 miles away and the cost of a 40 mile round trip is more than the delivery charge. Having not had a classic for about 20 years I've had to make a few purchases of stuff I used to have years ago and have got rid of due to various house moves and not having space to keep them.

Richard

[Markvh]

The problem I have with placing the rubber pads under the rear subframe arms is the end of the subframe mounting bolt touches the top of the scissor lift plates. To avoid this happening I have to put 40mm blocks of wood under the rubber pads. The rubber pads are 40mm thick (120x160mm on plan). I don't like the rubber blocks sat on the timbers (I feel the timber blocks may slide). So I was thinking of getting 80mm thick rubber blocks as per https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tool-Hub-...M/222848321720 or lifting under the sills or keeping the timber blocks. Going by your comments, I'll be better going for the thicker rubber blocks. Thanks very much for your guidance.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tool-Hub-9956-Jacking-Beam-Rubber-Support-Block-Scissor-Car-Lift-120x160x80MM/222848321720

Mark

[Motorsport Micky]

I also use a Strongman Clifton scissor lift and place my rubber doughnuts under the subframe mounting bolt which locates vertically the bush, that avoids any tendency to shuffle or slide. You can buy special cross ramp crossmembers from Clifton which have sliding and screwing up rubber mounts which are very versatile.

Strongman crossmember.jpg P1010202.JPG

Once you have scissor lift you will never want to go back to jacks and axles stands, the safety is so much better and the all around access including wheels off work all around is unsurpassed.

Micky

[Ritchie6]

All well and good if you have the space. That garage area is bigger than our house!

When I bought my Stag it didn't come with a jack so I bought a trolley jack ( cost about £40) which I carry in the boot and it doubles for both maintenance use and of course if I was unfortunate enough to have a puncture.

Richard

[Nigel W]

Micky

I have a Strongman Clifton scissor lift, but when I approached Clifton about a crossmember, they said that they no longer stocked them. Apparently they were relatively expensive and very slow selling. If you could let me have any more pictures of your setup, I would be most grateful. Also my lift is surface mounted, and if I were to use a cross beam I would need to put the car on blocks at each end first, in order to get the beam past the exhaust, particularly on my MGB.

Nigel

[Motorsport Micky]

Micky

I have a Strongman Clifton scissor lift, but when I approached Clifton about a crossmember, they said that they no longer stocked them. Apparently they were relatively expensive and very slow selling. If you could let me have any more pictures of your setup, I would be most grateful. Also my lift is surface mounted, and if I were to use a cross beam I would need to put the car on blocks at each end first, in order to get the beam past the exhaust, particularly on my MGB.

Nigel

Nigel,

Check your PMs I've sent a message with photo.

Micky

[Nigel W]

Thanks Micky, much appreciated.

Happy new year

Nigel

[new to this]

The problem I have with placing the rubber pads under the rear subframe arms is the end of the subframe mounting bolt touches the top of the scissor lift plates. To avoid this happening I have to put 40mm blocks of wood under the rubber pads. The rubber pads are 40mm thick (120x160mm on plan). I don't like the rubber blocks sat on the timbers (I feel the timber blocks may slide). So I was thinking of getting 80mm thick rubber blocks as per https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tool-Hub-...M/222848321720 or lifting under the sills or keeping the timber blocks. Going by your comments, I'll be better going for the thicker rubber blocks. Thanks very much for your guidance.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tool-Hub-9956-Jacking-Beam-Rubber-Support-Block-Scissor-Car-Lift-120x160x80MM/222848321720

Mark

They look a better size to use to lift

Dave

[Stag About Town]

I also use a Strongman Clifton scissor lift and place my rubber doughnuts under the subframe mounting bolt which locates vertically the bush, that avoids any tendency to shuffle or slide. You can buy special cross ramp crossmembers from Clifton which have sliding and screwing up rubber mounts which are very versatile.

Strongman crossmember.jpg P1010202.JPG

Once you have scissor lift you will never want to go back to jacks and axles stands, the safety is so much better and the all around access including wheels off work all around is unsurpassed.

Micky

I have jacked the rear under the subframe arms using blocks to spread the weight without any problem but when changing the two big outer bushes recently it struck me that the weight seems to be ultimately borne by the thick washers at the top of the two bush bolts that are accessed from under the rear seat. I understand that fixing point can be prone to rot and if so, is a pig to fix? Am I right about this and if so is it wise to jack under the subframe arms even if no rot is evident? I could easily be miles off course on this one. John

[Robin Searle]

I would strongly advise not to use the sills to jack up the car especially the age of our Stags,now all 40 years plus old..Here in Canada we have the largest all British car show in North America, British Car Day always held on the 3rd Sunday in September, 2 years ago I saw a Mini sitting 36 inches in the air in the middle of the field. I saw ,liked and found out from where did he get it from??. I called the manufacturer and designer in California on Monday and it was delivered to my garage at home on the Wednesday. The one big advantage is that whilst it is very similar to The Strongman scissor jack, both sides are connected by a prop-shaft that can be operated using an electric drill, the legs are lowered from the ends so that you have complete access from both sides as well at each end,. It also has moveable ends that slide in so as to position the lift points under the chassis using hockey pucks'
Do not have a large garage ??, no problem as when this unit is lowered it has castor wheels, so that it can be slid out from under the car, then turned upright and stored leaning against the garage wall. or even used outside on a firm surface.

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