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    flywheel questions

    Based on an earlier post, I have decided to reuse my flywheel bolts. Should I use lock-tite to seal the threads or should I use something like Hymolar Bue? I want to prevent oil passing through the threads.

    Why didn't they use blind holes for the flywheel bolts?

    Also, the flywheel has surface rust from sitting. Should I consider having it resurfaced. Here in the US we have these plastic type brushes made by 3. They do a good job without taking much material off.

    Sujit

    #2
    Interesting. Looks like my engines flywheel bolts look like the ones that fit a TR7. and not a Stag. Any thoughts about using TR7 bolts or do I now bite the bullet and use the ones for a Stag.

    Maybe I should contact APR here in the USA for something that may fit.

    Sujit

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      #3
      oh another question. The flywheel is missing 1 of the 3 l dowels. I'm assuming this is a locating dowel. Anyone know the size? Can I remove the others?

      Sujit

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        #4
        I always use loctite on the flywheel bolts as the first one I did came loose after a few thousand miles leading to all sorts of interesting knocking and rumbling noises.

        Don't know the size of the dowels that locate the clutch cover but I would replace the missing one before fitting the clutch.

        Pretty much anything can be used to remove the rust, just make sure you don't spend too long working in one place and dig a hole in the surface. Most of the time you can get away without re-surfacing the flywheel but if there is any significant surface cracking due to clutch slip, particularly if it occurs in patches, get it refaced or you may end up with horrendous clutch judder like I had on my first engine.

        Regarding the bolts, I have used several different sorts, some from a Dolomite Sprint (might be like TR7 ones), some from Auto versions of the Stag and goodness only knows what else over the years, and they all seem to work ok.

        Neil
        Neil
        TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

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          #5
          Thanks Neil for your endorsement on reusing bolts. I will use lock tite.
          The dowel pin is available .
          I took the flywheel off to get to the rear engine seal as there was so much oil on the engine plate. Well the seal had been changed at some point as it was still soft and pliable . I wish the PO has cleaned the oil.

          Sujit

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            #6
            Just to add to this - I had a serious vibration issue that went on for ages.

            it was eventually (after removing the engine and box) traced to there being only 1 dowel left in place which had allowed the clutch cover to start "shimmering" on that one dowel and the bolts that hold it in place at above 2,500rpm - it had driven me nuts trying to find what was doing it until I took the engine down to Faversham's - It was only when Trevor looked at the clutch cover and the marking on the flywheel it dawned on us!

            So moral of the story - make absolutely sure all the dowels are there and when re-fitting the flywheel we used new correct bolts that have a seal built into them.
            Mike

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              #7
              I've used Loctite a few times with no problems - just make sure its all clean. I also reamed a couple of clutch cover bolt holes through and used a pair of fitted bolts for extra location
              Sometimes you just need the 2 wheels!

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