Cavity wax

[Markvh]

Hi, wondered if someone might be able to advise me.
I have a 5 litre plastic container of Dinitrol Classic 3125 Cavity Wax. I bought it 2 and a half years ago. It has never been opened. I am going to inject the cavities in a couple of weeks. My questions are:-
Do you think the stuff will still be OK to use?
I am going to warm it up in a bucket of hot water, what sort of temperature does the water and wax need to be?
I intend to get the garage and car body well warmed up. What sort of temperature does the garage and car body need to be at to ensure the wax stays fluid enough to get well lnto the seams etc before it starts to stiffen up and stop creeping and how long does it need to stay warm after injecting?
All the cavities have been treated before (years ago by a previous owner) so the new wax needs to flow over this. I'm doing the complete car, chassis rails, cills, inside/inbetween the inner and outer wheel arches, front panels, rear panels, inside wings, bonnet and boot cavities, windscreen pillars and top & bottom rails, posts, everything.
is 5 litres enough to do the job? Obviously, I will be using a compressor and Sealey SG18 air operated wax injector gun and wands.Thanks very much in advance.
If all goes well and when I have time I may write up a small piece on going about it and listing all the access points I used.
Mark

[dasadrew]

Some info on temperatures here:

https://www.frost.co.uk/dinitrol-3125-hs-cavity-wax.html

[KSM62]

I haven't used this product before, but I think I would be inclined to wait until the weather warmed up a bit.

[new to this]

When I did it i boiled a kettle of hot water and left the wax oil in there for a few minutes,to thin the wax oil enough to come out of the wax oil gun
we did warm the garage with a space heater

[TR5convalescent]

All I’d add is that you want it warm not hot. It tends to form a fine mist and if that is hot and gets on your skin it’s not fun. Don’t ask me how I know!

[Markvh]

Thanks. I'll warm the tub up in a bucket of hot water. I can get the garage up to about 24 degrees in the current weather temperatures. I don't want the stuff soldifying before it gets right into those tiny voids. From what I have read before. Any small voids left untreated can rust out even quicker than if it wasn't treated at all.

[Markvh]

Done it! Spent the day in a cloud of cavity wax fog. I've used the whole 5 litres on the Stag. The only parts that haven't been done are the top sections of the B posts and the inside of the rear valance. Not too worried because it has all been done some years ago. Might get a can of Dynax S50 to do those bits just so that I know I have done it.
I can't believe how much wax has drained through onto the floor, it looks like litres of the stuff! Is that normal?
Regarding the sills, I have sprayed them by accessing the holes down the sides of the inner sills and the holes underneath the sills. Should that be OK because I haven't removed the 'TRIUMPH' stainless tread/kick plates which I believe also has holes under.
The boot floor is swimming in the stuff which I have mopped up.
I'm glad I covered the whole car up but some bits were exposed like the bumpers. The bumpers, underneath the bonnet panel and boot panel have runs of wax on them which I have wiped up. These runs will come back again overnight. How and when is the best time to clean this off, keep wiping it off before it goes solid or wait til it goes solid then get it off with white spirit?
I put plastic sheeting on the floor and it is covered in the stuff. I suppose the best time to remove the sheeting is when the stuff has solidified and it has stopped dripping out the car. How long does this typically take?
Using the spray wand was a bit frustrating at times because I couldn't always get it to go where I wanted because of the curl on it.
It would be great to get some responses to these queries. I haven't given a single thought to what to do after spraying the wax.
Thanks in anticipation!
Mark

[Markvh]

OK, please let me ask this. The Dinitrol 3125 was very thin so flowed back out of holes at a prodigious rate. I can understand this as it needs to get into the seams. But does it leave an adequate thickness of coating on the surfaces of the hidden cavities or do I need to now spray something else that leaves a thicker film?

[mole42]

I’m afraid I have no experience of the Dinitrol product but when I used to apply WaxOyl in the old days we used to see quite a lot dripping out afterwards, and again if the weather warmed up… I would not have said litres, the boss would have had a fit!

[jakesmig]

I used gaffer tape to close the breather holes etc in the chassis legs, sills etc., filled them full with warm, not hot Wacoil, then drained them after about 5 minutes by removing the lowest gaffer blank. Out of 10 litres used I recovered about 5. That was 6 years ago and I still get an occasional drip on really hot days.
Put a note in your log book to warn others that it has been waxed, they can burn like a furnace if you have to cut out any damaged area with a grinder, and it will go up along the whole section and spread elsewhere if you're not ready for it.

John.

[Markvh]

Thanks everyone, very helpful.
Tomorrow, I'm going to get 5 litres of waxoyl and spray that into the cavities as well. This may be a bit thicker than the Dinitrol and stick to the inside faces of the chassis rails, doors and cavities between the inner and outer wheel arches etc. over the top of the Dinitrol I have already put in. I'm guessing it can't do any harm to put too much in I'll tape up some of the holes as well.
I'm interested to see if there is any differences in consistency between the Dinitrol and Waxoyl.

[Markvh]

I’ve put in 5 litres of waxoyl in today. So far, non of it has dropped out of any holes and I put it in warm with a small amount of white spirits added and the garage at 26 degrees. This stuff should definitely stick to the sides of chassis etc. I meant to do the windscreen surround, posts etc but forgot so that has only got the thin Dinitrol, but that will have to do. I can’t face loading the gun again then cleaning up again afterwards. What a messy job, I never want to do it again.