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    Soft top side seals

    Spent this afternoon fiddling with the hood (soft top)side seals to try to get the hood to sit flatter before I fasten the header rail latches and so reduce the strain on the latches and also to make the doors easier to shut with out pushing the window frames outwards. So a couple of questions for all you hood experts....

    Should the rear bit of the hood side seal continue over the top of the B-post? Mine does at the moment and this is propping the hood up so it's a struggle to get the front rail down to the windscreen header. I'm considering cuttingoff the bottom of the seal profile above the Bpost to give more room and flexibility.

    Which way round does the side seal go? I've just changed mine so that the small bulge is to the outside and sits just above the door window frame when the door is closed, it seemed more flexible this way round.

    Or is it just a matter of leaving the hood up for a few days so the rubber takes on a new shape?



    Thanks, John.

    #2
    imported post

    Yes the side seals should go over the B-post. If they seem to bind, then loosen the 3 bolts each side which locate the frame onto the body,then lock the front catches, and lift the frame up (slotted holes)as much as possible so the seal is not too tight on the B-post. When the frame seems to be in the right position,tighten the bolts and test out the frame. The frames are not strong and can bendwhich can cause problems with the fit.

    Comment


      #3
      imported post

      Hi John

      This is a common problem with the new seals, i had the same problem and changed mine to a different profile seal



      Supplied by

      http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/bbCMS/s...rtmentId=68#87

      Part No ATT1974

      Works a treat with good contact with the window frame and flexible enough not to jam on the frame (Bit of Silicone Spray also helps)

      Gary

      Comment


        #4
        imported post

        V Mad wrote:
        Yes the side seals should go over the B-post. If they seem to bind, then loosen the 3 bolts each side which locate the frame onto the body,then lock the front catches, and lift the frame up (slotted holes)as much as possible so the seal is not too tight on the B-post.
        I think it's about as far up as it'll go, it's been adjusted so the slots have moved as far up the fixing bolts as I can get them - I can see a good portion of the slot above the bolts when tightened.

        John.

        Comment


          #5
          imported post

          GTJones wrote:
          Hi John

          This is a common problem with the new seals, i had the same problem and changed mine to a different profile seal
          Supplied by

          http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/bbCMS/s...rtmentId=68#87

          Part No ATT1974
          Thanks, just ordered some!

          The 'new' ones I have at the moment are much rounder compared to the picture, I recall when I originally fitted them thinking how much the previous ones must have deformed - I didn't realise they were suppposed to be 'pre-squashed'

          John.

          Comment


            #6
            imported post

            GTJones wrote:
            Hi John

            This is a common problem with the new seals, i had the same problem and changed mine to a different profile seal



            Supplied by

            http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/bbCMS/s...rtmentId=68#87

            Part No ATT1974

            Works a treat with good contact with the window frame and flexible enough not to jam on the frame (Bit of Silicone Spray also helps)

            Gary
            Gary,

            Are these seals made from a foam type of rubber similar to the door seals? Or are they hard monofilament Indiarubber? The original ones were softer, but these have been unobtainable for years and it is one project I am hoping that SOCTFL can get sorted. Same problem with the hard top front and rear seal.

            Dave
            Dave
            1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

            Comment


              #7
              imported post

              Hi Dave

              They are not the open cell rubber (as the original) but due to their profile they allow the window frame to fit under the seal when you open and close the door.

              When you get them they tend to be bonded (slightly) so all i did was pass a 6mm rod through the centre opening up the seal slightly which allows for more flex.

              I also bought a length of 6mm neoprene that i was going to pass through the centre of the profile so as to make it spongier but once i fitted them it didn't need it.

              Gary

              Comment


                #8
                imported post

                GTJones wrote:
                due to their profile they allow the window frame to fit under the seal when you open and close the door.
                And I'm hoping that when they get squashed on top of the Bpost they'll mostly deform inwards instead of wedging the top back corner of the door frame outwards like the more symmetrical seals.

                John.

                Comment


                  #9
                  imported post

                  New seals arrived and fitted today, the doors shut much more easily now

                  John.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    imported post

                    Shows the power of the Forum

                    Gary

                    Comment

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