Refilling of Coolant after the removal of the Heater box and matrix

[Dazza the Stag]

Simple questions really. I have just refitted the Heater Matrix and Heater box after it was all fully drained.

1) Do i simply follow the instructions in the workshop manual to refill the coolant or the fact that i have had the above removed and drained does that make any difference to the process ? ( I thought I had read something to say there was a change - but now i cant find it ! )

2) Is the make of coolant important - I have some that says suitable for aluminium engines, I’m sure thats what i have used to top up previously but I’ve never done a full refill

3) Ive seen mention of jacking up the front of the car - is that necessary as there is no mention in the manual ?

Standard car - no header tank

Thanks

Darren

[Ian F]

Darren

Never removed the heater matrix, so can’t be certain, but pretty sure the process will be the same, you may need slightly more coolant than a simple drain and flush.

Pink or Blue anti-freeze is a contentious question on here, use what you wish, but don’t mix the two! Blue is older and typical for Stags of the ‘70s, Pink is allegedly more modern and longer lasting. % antifreeze varies - some use as high as 50% but typically 25-33% antifreeze with (ideally) distilled water.

Raising the front nearside wheel, on a jack or car ramp, elevates the filling point in the rad and allegedly aids the bleeding of air from the system.

Sure others will be along with their wisdom, but hope this helps.

ian

[mikethemechanic]

Some hints for you, fill rad with correct antifreeze and water nearly always works if heater valve is open (don't rely on heat knob position - check valve is working),start and run to temp and usually ok. if not allow to cool then remove higher heater pipe and fill with water with the rad filler plug off when water appears at top of hose or rad refit hose without loosing too much water re-start and all should be o.k. then allow to stand for up to 4 hours and re top up rad and overflow bottle.

[Dazza the Stag]

Some hints for you, fill rad with correct antifreeze and water nearly always works if heater valve is open (don't rely on heat knob position - check valve is working),start and run to temp and usually ok. if not allow to cool then remove higher heater pipe and fill with water with the rad filler plug off when water appears at top of hose or rad refit hose without loosing too much water re-start and all should be o.k. then allow to stand for up to 4 hours and re top up rad and overflow bottle.

Thanks Ian and Mike

Mike, just to clarify when you say "usually ok" what am i looking for to show me if it is ok ? and the higher heater pipe, are you referring to where the pipe joins the copper tube from the heater matrix at the engine side of the bulkhead ?

Thanks

Darren

[Lingen]

Darren.
It might be worth checking that your heater hoses are connected correctly. The top pipe on the bulkhead should be connected to the water pump, and the bottom one to the l/h head.The should ensure that all the air is purged when the valve is open. It also stops those gurgling noises when the valve is only partially open!
Mike.

[Dazza the Stag]

Thanks all - successfully done. Just followed the normal procedure in the workshop manual, didn’t eve need to jack the front up.

Thanks again