Stag 'click again'

[Tdm]

After a couple of years living with the problem, including the fitting of two new high torque starters, I found the problem in the multi-plug. It was green from corrosion, and full of road gunge. I changed it for a modern waterproof connector and all is well again.
Dave

The garage who currently have my car have just fitted for me my 2nd high torque starter, but I don't remember personally checking the multi-plug beforehand. I will do when I get the car back - thanks for the heads up.

[Goldstar]

After a couple of years living with the problem, including the fitting of two new high torque starters, I found the problem in the multi-plug. It was green from corrosion, and full of road gunge. I changed it for a modern waterproof connector and all is well again.

Dave

Worth doing as routine, would you remember which connector you used Dave?

Thanks

[022Dave]

Worth doing as routine, would you remember which connector you used Dave?

Thanks

From memory, I used two of these https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/43

The original connector is a seven pin, with five cables going in, and four coming out (mine's an auto, if that makes a difference), so the 'spare' cable was just tied out of the way.

Dave

[sujitroy]

be careful doing this the wires supplying the 12 volts to the solenoid got through a few connector blocks. by the time it gets to the solenoid u may not have 12 volts from the ignition. u could trying supplying a direct 12 volt line to the solenoid. you have the thick wire to the solenoid from the battery u could jump . if it works all the time then a relay should help

[022Dave]

be careful doing this the wires supplying the 12 volts to the solenoid got through a few connector blocks. by the time it gets to the solenoid u may not have 12 volts from the ignition. u could trying supplying a direct 12 volt line to the solenoid. you have the thick wire to the solenoid from the battery u could jump . if it works all the time then a relay should help

Not quite sure what you mean. I have two wires going through one connector, and the other two through the other connector, so there's no increase in resistance values over the original, other than nice new shiny pins inside nice new shiny waterproof housings. I 'reversed' the two housings as an attempt to Murphy Proof them, should I need to disconnect them in the future, so that there is only one way that they'll fit back together. If I was going to do the job again, I would probably extend the cables, to site the connection in a less vulnerable position, away from exhaust heat and road water spray, which I believe was probably the cause of the original intermittent problem.

Dave

[Goldstar]

From memory, I used two of these https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/43

The original connector is a seven pin, with five cables going in, and four coming out (mine's an auto, if that makes a difference), so the 'spare' cable was just tied out of the way.

Dave

They look good thanks.

[markmark2]

From memory, I used two of these https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/43

The original connector is a seven pin, with five cables going in, and four coming out (mine's an auto, if that makes a difference), so the 'spare' cable was just tied out of the way.

Dave

Hi Dave, how did you manage to replace the connectors? Did you take the loom out or does it all drop down? I need to replace the connectors to eliminate them although i have thoroughly cleaned them in the past. Cheers Mark

[MandM]

have a look at drew's post/article

https://socforum.com/forum/forum/stag-owners-club/technical-section/electrics/752928-a-cure-for-the-starter-motor-click

also clean the commutator and brushes, and have a good clean up of the motor

P1080471.JPGP1080470.JPGP1080485.JPG

also clean the bendix bit the bit that throws the gear forward, DO NOT oil, use graphite (pencil)

P1080480.JPG

[MandM]

also as said clean this plug if Auto
P1080493.JPG

[022Dave]

Hi Dave, how did you manage to replace the connectors? Did you take the loom out or does it all drop down? I need to replace the connectors to eliminate them although i have thoroughly cleaned them in the past. Cheers Mark

Hello Mark,

I jacked the car up and changed the connector from underneath; it's in a poor position, but can be done.

Dave

[markmark2]

Hello Mark,

I jacked the car up and changed the connector from underneath; it's in a poor position, but can be done.

Dave

Hi dave, thanks for a quick reply. Is this the plug in the picture that MandM posted? I have attempted to clean this plug before but it would seem with little success. When you say jacked the car up, do you mean just the front or completely of the ground? thanks again. M

[022Dave]

Hi dave, thanks for a quick reply. Is this the plug in the picture that MandM posted? I have attempted to clean this plug before but it would seem with little success. When you say jacked the car up, do you mean just the front or completely of the ground? thanks again. M

Yes; that's the connector. Mine was in a pretty bad state. I think you can get to it just by removing the passenger side wheel, but with enough height to work lying on your back. As I said in #20, I'd probably consider lengthening the loom to position the connector in a less vulnerable place. Even though I used waterproof connectors, I made a thermal wrap to give a bit of protection against exhaust heat.

Dave

[markmark2]

Big thanks to all who have replied. Cheers Mark

[Ian928]

For me the starter relay did not cure the click because it was the brushes that was worn. When the solenoid pushed the shaft forward the brushes lost contact with the commutator. I replaced the brushes, but that was NOT straightforward because one wire was welded to a aluminium rod that was inpossible to solder to. I sort of fixed it by bolting a wire connector to the aluminium rod.