Changing the steering rack...

[alistair260661]

Before I start on this I wanted to ask if anyone has any experience of doing this (and what may need to watch out for!).

It looks to be straightforward and possible with the car jacked up on stands - but before I start dismantling I wanted to know if I will run into any problems like any other part of the car obstructing its removal (and refitting!).

I've been here before and what started out looking straightforward ended up a marathon!

Thanks

[richardthestag]

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Pretty easy to do;

• 
  Loosen the intermediate shaft at both ends and remove
• 
  Thoroughy clean off around the top of the rack where the hydraulics fit.
• 
  Remove hydraulic pipes from rack
• 
  Use eyewash to get ATF and visit casualty
• 
  Fix plasters to knuckles
• 
  Spread cat litter on garage floor to soak up ATF

Then

• 
  Remove track rod end nuts.
• 
  Use a 2.5lb hammer and “tap” the side of the steering arm, this has never failed to get track rod ends to pop up for me. I avoid those nasty puller type things as they ALWAYS knacker up the rubber seals.
• 
  Undo and remove the mounts – n/s downpipe can get in the way so you will need to use a spanner
• 
  Remove rack.

Bits that I would check before replacement.[/b]

Make sure that the rack you are putting back in is not the cheapest that you could find. Else you better get used to doing this job...

Check trackrod ends for damage / wear etc

Use poly steering rack mounts

Check intermediate shaft uj’s for wear

Reassembly is reversal of removal except[/b]

Make sure you centre the rack else you will have more lock on one side that the other.

Make sure that you bolt the rack up tight before fitting the intermediate shaft. Else the steering will feel horrible

Keep the hydraulics nice and clean. Grit doesn’t help

Top up reservoir with ATF start engine and wind steering back and forth before you drop the front end off the stands. Bleeding is pretty easy

Nip up to your local tyre factor to get the tracking sorted. If however the computer says Triumph WHAT? Suggest that Jag XJ6 Series2 has similar tracking settings. It worked for mine.

Good luck

[alistair260661]

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when u say "Undo and remove the mounts – n/s downpipe can get in the way so you will need to use a spanner" do u mean that I may need to remove or disconnect the n/s downpipe/manifold? - or is it "just" a bit of levering..............?

[richardthestag]

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my standard downpipe was left in place. But the mounting for the rack is right under where the downpipe curles around and heads off aft. Have a look at yours and you'll see what I mean.

Anyway downpipe stays where it is and you may need to use spanner rather than socket to undo the n/s rack mounts from the chassis leg.

[jleyton]

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On the subject of steering, will any good quality ATF fluid suffice for Stag PAS fluid?

Cheers

Julian

[alistair260661]

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yes I think so - I have a big leak and am therefore frequently filling

[alistair260661]

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got you! - here comes skinned knuckles.............



thanks

[Rubce]

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If I remember correctly the rack will only slide out towards the nearside of the car and no you do not need to remove the nearside front exhaust pipe.

Have fun

Bruce

[peter f]

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The rack slides out towards the OFFSIDE of the car, and no, you do not need to remove any exhaust pipes, just use ring keys and open ended keys to take out the two mounting bolts on the nearside, which are impeded by the exhaust pipe.
You also need to locate the intermediate shaft on the splines at top and bottom, before refitting the four rack mounting bolts.
cheers,
Peter

[Rubce]

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Old age catching up with me

[Guest]

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Hi Ali, on the intermediate shaft at the rack end, the pinch bolt will only go back in one place, as if there were a king spline, the upper joint will fit anywhere,before you start, lock the steering, the wheel should be straight.

Offer the rack up, with the shaft attached, and tickle it onto the steering column shaft, first having measured carefully to check that the rack is centred, once you're all bolted up you will be correct spline for spline.

If the steering wheel is crooked, remove and straighten, while it's off you can see the self cancel arm for the indicators, it should be pointing right andhorizontal, otherwise the self cancel will work when it shouldn't and drive you nuts, it's not adjustable so depends on your care in re-assembly.

I know this sounds tedious but it's the correct way to do it, getting the rack off is simple, lining it all up to go back is the only hard part. Cheers, Martin.

[Guest]

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Rubce wrote:

Old age catching up with me

Not to mention a strange propensity to lift stuff straightoff American websites. Martin.

[Rubce]

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Martin Stevenson wrote:

Not to mention a strange propensity to lift stuff straightoff American websites. Martin.

Martin

You have lost me with that one:shock:. Please explain

Bruce

[alistair260661]

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thanks guys - now I have that clear in my mind all I need to do is go and buy a good condition rack!

[Guest]

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alistair260661 wrote:

thanks guys - now I have that clear in my mind all I need to do is go and buy a good condition rack!

Hi Ali, good luck mate. Don't forget there are no new racks, only recon ones, and they're only as good as the guy who did the work.

There are some very dodgy ones out there, I had two short lived ones from one parts supplier and a dead one from another, not their fault, but they won't change their source. As far as I know, there are five or six people out there re-conditioning them, so shopping around is an option.

Don't buy on price, the best won't be the cheapest. The only one I can reccommend is E.J. Ward, the've used the samo guy for yonks, and both he and they stand by the product. The only others I actually know, I won't be going back to. Martin.