Ignition Coil which one

[Cello]

This topic appears to have been covered partly elsewhere but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for. Perhaps someone can direct me to the thread or suggest a solution.
Tuesday my stag and I were happily bowling along about 60mph when the rev counter dropped to 0 and we coasted into a lay by. As a stag owner of 30 plus years this was disappointing. Not broken down irretrievably for at least 20 years.
Almost certainly LT side but no obvious loose wires etc. Recovery didn't even lift the bonnet, just up on the truck and home.
Today I swapped the coil for one I had lying around and it started and ran happily.

A couple of years ago (perhaps 4 or 5) I put it into a well known stag specialist for timing chains. When it was handed back the engine was running roughly. I turned straight back and asked them to sort it. (They went through everything without really solving the problem but that is another story.) In the process they changed the coil and threw away the ballast resistor. (As an aside the last time the stag failed 20+ years ago, it was the ballast resistor).
The failed coil (as fitted by the aforementioned specialist) is marked COL202 12VOLT BALLAST. It has no make. The top is cracked (hence why I swapped that first)
The one I have put on is from a shelf in the garage... Lucas possibly from the stag many years ago or a P6 or even the moggie. I'd like to replace it for obvious reasons.
I run Lumenition, have done since 1986 and am happy with it (noting others have had problems)
So the question is which coil should I buy and should I buy a ballast resistor and refit it?

I'm intrigued by the ballast resistor side because I suspect the coil may have failed due to not having a ballast resistor - running at 12V all the time it perhaps got too hot.

Lastly if someone wants to educate me on what makes one coil better than another (yep bigger spark but...) and why I should spend loadsa dosh on super coil vs any old 12v coil, I'd be happy to listen.
Thanks all,

[DJT]

One which has been recommended by many on here is: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-120033-...221119030.aspx

I bought and fitted one a couple of months ago and it has been fine. However, this is for a ballasted system. From your post, I assume you have a Mk1 with separate ballast resistor, rather than the post LD20001 Mk2 with a pink/white ballast wire. If so, the buy a new ballast and fit it at the same time. They are readily available: http://www.ldparts.co.uk/shop/shop.p...6860d6260ea912

[Cello]

Thanks DJT. Yes it is Mk 1 (or 1.5 even though we aren't allowed to use that...) Your recommendation looks good.
Looking around I see Paddocks have a Lumenition coil complete with ballast for a similar price. Anyone had experience with that please?

[staginmacc]

So on a mk2 the pink white wire is the ballast? how do you know if it is working or not and can it be replaced?

[StagJonno]

The Pink/ White wire has a resistive wire of ~1.5 ohms. Conditions for it not working are either a complete break in the wire or corroded termination, this may be total, or intermittent. The result of it not working will be that the engine won't run (it may start, but will die on returning the key from cranking the starter to normal run position).

Why do you suspect it?

Jonno

[staginmacc]

I have had my engine cut out twice now while driving. Perhaps I should remake all connections to coil and see if this helps?

[StagJonno]

Yes, worth doing that for starters. If it's "Mk2" wiring (not checked earlier wiring) the feed comes from the Ignition switch to the hot side of the windscreen wiper fuse (one of the white wires) where it piggy backs to another white wire to a connector where it connects to the Pink/ White ballast resistor wire and onto the coil. The problem could also be within the Ignition switch contacts. When it next cuts out, try operating the windscreen washer (which is fed from the wiper fuse) - if this isn't working at the same time of engine cut-out, it's pointing to the Ignition switch and associated connections.

Of course, the symptoms you describe could be due to either an intermittent interruption to the fuel pump, in which case the contacts in the inertia switch would be the first place to check, or in the Lumenition system, in which case a regular culprit is the 3-pin connector between the distributor and the Lumenition module, where the pins can get crudded up (several members have installed replacement waterproof plug/ sockets)

Jonno

[staginmacc]

I have recently had carbs and inlet manifold off and it may be that the wiring to the coil has been disturbed. i have cleaned the spade connectors and terminals and plan now to fit new connectors. i will clean up the inertia switch and see if that makes a difference. thanks for your suggestions.

[StagJonno]

I had 3 cut-outs (sudden reduced power followed by engine stopping) on one journey about 2-miles apart. In the first 2, the engine restarted OK. The 3rd time, it didn't so gave me chance to identify the problem (though SWMBO wasn't too impressed). I could see that the fuel in the filter seemed lower than normal. Hit the fuel pump with a small hammer, but no benefit. Exercised the intertia switch several times, including rotating it and lo - fuel visible coming through to the filter. Ran fine (and SWMBO suitably impressed) Been fine ever since. One day I'll strip and clean the contacts, but in the meantime carry a running spare.

Good luck with your investigations.

Jonno

[StagJonno]

Been reliably informed by a Stag Friend who has recently had intermittency issues with his fuel pump, the connector to the fuel pump under-the-carpet location is actually under the drivers side footwell carpet. He separated the connector and used contact cleaner (NOT WD40), then put the 2 halves back together. Worked fine since.

Jonno

[staginmacc]

ok i will check that as well however when it first cut out on me i checked the filter and fuel was present. the engine turned over but did not fire.
After removing distributor cap and cleaning it the engine did start. the second occasion i was on the motorway and cruised to a halt on the hard shoulder. that time i turned over the engine and after a couple of goes it fired up.

[StagJonno]

Just a point, the fuel filter is never totally empty of fuel in it's "normal" orientation.

[Tundra]

Hi Jonno, could you be a bit more specific about the location of the pump connector? I ended up running a new wire when the power disappeared somewhere between the inertia switch and pump as I couldn't work out where the inline connector was hiding.
John

[StagJonno]

All I was told is that it's a multiway connector under the drivers-side footwell carpet. I'd start at the bulhead side and work backwards. The wire to the fuel pump is shown as White/ Light Green.

[Creeping Jane]

Lumenition make a coil called the Megaspark 6 which is unballasted (so for 12 volts only) and designed for 8 cylinder engines and above. That is what I fitted with my Optronic system and it seems to work OK. I will eventually extend the wires of the Optronic so that I can relocate the box inside the car and get rid of the connector that is a constant complaint. The low tension wires in the ignition circuit are worth checking because of those 40/50 year old spades and joins.