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Satg Head Bolts Induction Heater

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    Satg Head Bolts Induction Heater

    I have to take the heads off a Stag which has been in place at least thirty years.

    I know there are lots of methods about, but I am considering using an induction heating coil before I even try with any force to remove the bolts.

    Any one used an induction heater on a Stag head bolt?
    Any tips, or why it will not work?

    I was planning to remove nuts and dose with Plus Gas a couple of times a day over perhaps three days before I make any serious efforts to remove the studs.

    Then heat to glowing with induction to try and crack free gently'ish, if no go then another plus gas and leave for 24 hours before heating to glowing and trying for real.

    Is that a viable plan?


    One day I will get to sort out my typing - particularly of "Stag"!

    Alan

    #2
    Hello Allan, Try searching YouTube there will be any number of articles on the subject.
    Cheers Ian A

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      #3
      Regarding anti seize (Plus Gas etc.) one of the best is a home mix of 50% transmission fluid & 50% acetone. Another hobby of mine is older speedboats & old Mercury outboards. Often the outboards are badly seized & I picked this tip up on a US forum, & its always worked well for me.
      Auto transmission rebuilding since 1979 - for my sins!

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        #4
        diesel is a good penetrate as well

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          #5
          Buy the correct S.350 stud removing tool from Tony Hart - it's specified in the ROM - 12.29.12 para. 31 - and it allows you to use a big ring spanner to 'rock' the studs back and forth to help the crud let go.
          Last edited by mole42; 12th July 2019, 08:32.
          Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1˝, TV8, ZF 4HP-22 auto,
          2016 RBRR finisher. 400 mile C2C 21/22 April 2018!

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            #6
            Originally posted by mole42 View Post
            Buy the correct S.350 stud removing tool from Tony Hart - it's specified in the ROM - 12.29.12 para. 31 - and it allows you to use a big ring spanner to 'rock' the studs back and forth to help the crud let go.
            And then they snap off anyway...... I bought and used that tool to little effect. Even tried the jackhammer trick on the studs, combined with loads of penetrating fluid (not WD40), but only one loosened that way. Had to Jack the LH head off against the other and cut through the studs. Even with the heads off I couldn’t shift the remains of two of them from the head. The local firm who tidied up the heads for me got the remains out using their 20-tonne press! The threaded remains that stayed in the block undid very easily, so it was only electrolytic corrosion that was causing the studs to stick.
            I made and used a head pusher tool, but that is little use once the studs have snapped. Better to use it before that happens.
            Dave
            1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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              #7
              Is this the tool you were thinking of? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ya8fxm89jk
              Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

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