Front struts

[Guest]

Gents.

I am replacing my front dampers with spax. When I removed the original dampers the front struts have oil in them?

Do I put oil in the struts for the spax? If so, what type of oil?



Cheers



Jason

[PaulW]

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I think spax units come complete as an independent self contained unit, you just need to put them in tube and lock them down with top nut ?

PaulW

[PaulW]

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Without any oil

PaulW

[Stagdad]

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Careful with that aluminium top nut ,it can easily cross thread in the steel strut and the thread is very fine for aluminium.Make sure you clean off burrs around the peining (is that how you spell it?)area.

Cheers Steve

[peter f]

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Steve's spot on, the threads are a sod for stripping, so spend whatever time it takes to ensure the male collar screws in and out with ease, and take some time to pein the strut top over properly thus locking the collar securely in place.
good luck,
Peter

[stustag]

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Hi Jason

Make sure the Spax inserts sit correctly in the tubes as some times you need to shim them at the bottom with washer to fill the void

Stuart

[Guest]

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Thanks Gents. Why can't it just be "unbolt old, bolt on new"??

Suppose that would be boring then?

I don't remember the tops being "peened"? over, Was thinking of using some thread lock on the nut

Jason

[V Mad]

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stagstan wrote:

Thanks Gents. Why can't it just be "unbolt old, bolt on new"??

Suppose that would be boring then?

I don't remember the tops being "peened"? over, Was thinking of using some thread lock on the nut

Jason

You can buy exchange struts which is eaier but obviously more expensive.

Awarning: there seems to be strut insert kits around which do not fit properly. I have had to strip and refit a few whichare rattling around becauseeither the struts are too short, or the locking collar is the wrong shape/size. When you get yours, make sure they fit tightly before peening or locking the thread. You can shim them up with large thick washers if you must or they can be returned to the supplier as unsuitable. You may need to make a tool to fit into the locking ring (although some conveniently have a hex head).

[Guest]

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Hi VMAD, My Spax have a hex head fitted.

Jason

[Andy Rundell]

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stagstan wrote:

Thanks Gents. Why can't it just be "unbolt old, bolt on new"??

Suppose that would be boring then?

I went for the boring route - complete struts from Chris Witor - it meant i could be sure of finishing the job in 3 hours for both sides.

They were not cheap, but my priority was to keep the car in use.

..........Andy

[stag8manod]

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HI Guys, When I did my struts I did add oil to the void between the replacement cartridge and the outer casing to provide a means of heat transferr to assist cooling when it is working hard. Enough to 1/2 -3/4 fill the space, it doesn,t take much.

Cheers Ian

[Dave M]

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Andy Rundell wrote:

stagstan wrote:

Thanks Gents. Why can't it just be "unbolt old, bolt on new"??

Suppose that would be boring then?

I went for the boring route - complete struts from Chris Witor - it meant i could be sure of finishing the job in 3 hours for both sides.

They were not cheap, but my priority was to keep the car in use.

..........Andy

Andy

What did they cost from Chris and does he do complete lowered struts?

Dave

[stag8manod]

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Hi, To add some to my previous reply. To lock the top nut ,mine were hexagon headed, I had a trial fitting with the cartridge and with the nut down tight drilled into the side of the casing and into the nut with a 5mm tapping drill. Disassembled, tapped the nut, drilled the casing 5mmand reassembled with an appropiate length Loctited screw. Next time disassembly will only require a quick local heat to release the Loctite and it should undo.

Cheers Ian

[mjheathcote]

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stag8manod wrote:

HI Guys, When I did my struts I did add oil to the void between the replacement cartridge and the outer casing to provide a means of heat transferr to assist cooling when it is working hard. Enough to 1/2 -3/4 fill the space, it doesn,t take much.

Cheers Ian

WhenI fitted koni's they recommended a water antifreeze mix for the same reason.

[Andy Rundell]

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Dave M wrote:

Andy Rundell wrote:

stagstan wrote:

Thanks Gents. Why can't it just be "unbolt old, bolt on new"??

Suppose that would be boring then?

I went for the boring route - complete struts from Chris Witor - it meant i could be sure of finishing the job in 3 hours for both sides.

They were not cheap, but my priority was to keep the car in use.

..........Andy

Andy

What did they cost from Chris and does he do complete lowered struts?

Dave

Dave,
From Chris's website :

'Exchange Strut using lower leg as above, fully assembled new gaiter, thrust washers, selective length Stainless Steel inner sleeve to reduce end float, new bush if required, good top mount EPC metal top cup Superflex PU insulators and choice of heavy duty springs as listed, for responsive and precise handling. Due to the variety of springs available, I now quote the cost less spring. Please add cost of your choice of spring to £146.36 per unit..(Exch. deposit £35.25)NOTE: If top mount on your old strut is known to be cracked or unbonding, then reduce deposit to £17.63
& add £19.98 for good s/h or £52.88 for re-bonded top mount as required. '

His full list can be found here;

http://www.chriswitor.com/Chris_Witor_4_Page_Main_Price_List.pdf

Regarding ride height Chris quotes a variety of springs to accommodate the different ride-heights during production, not many people tend to discuss this, but is one of the reasons that people describe their cars sitting at different levels.

I chose 160lb pre-74 height - i'd recommend talking to him to confirm what you need, he'll be able to advise the most appropriate choice - I made mine even more expensive by having roller-bearing top-mounts .

..............Andy