Drive shaft & Inner Drive Shaft Bearings Advice needed

[DZP]

Hi,
I had a droning noise from the rear axle that sounded like a wheel bearing, so I decided to bite-the-bullet and replace the drive shafts with the CV type.
I did find that the O/S rear wheel bearing is badly worn and so hopefully the new drive shafts will cure the problem.
I am also replacing the inner driveshaft bearings and oil seals.

Should I expect to lose Diff oil when I remove the inner shaft bearings and oil seals?
Should I use EP90 GL4 or EP90 GL5 to top-up the diff, the ROM does specify GL5 for Overseas use, but not for British use?
Are there any problems I should look for when inspecting the inner shafts and bearings or are these normally fairly robust?

Also, I am advised to tighten the outer stub axle nut to 290Nm (214 lb/ft) on the new CV driveshafts, which is much higher that the 120 lb/ft suggested for the original outer stub axle nut.
Does anyone know if this is correct?

Thanks,
Den

[Motorsport Micky]

Depends upon whose CV shafts you are fitting, there are at least 3 or 4 available, the CDD driveshafts are constructed differently on the hubs to Triumph standard being easier to adjust on bearing setting (I'm told) and require this quoted torque given here, presumably you are buying the CV shafts complete with new hubs ?

Micky

[new to this]

Depends upon whose CV shafts you are fitting, there are at least 3 or 4 available, the CDD driveshafts are constructed differently on the hubs to Triumph standard being easier to adjust on bearing setting (I'm told) and require this quoted torque given here, presumably you are buying the CV shafts complete with new hubs ?

Micky

I know there's different people selling them, but aren't they all made by the same person

Dave

[Motorsport Micky]

What about Goodparts from the US they aren't the same, and there's at least one more I can think of, I think it's sensible to state whose they are rather than assume which CV shafts they are and the hubs used. Is that a secret ? it's just sensible.

Micky

[Phil S]

if purchasing new hubs as well one would assume they would be supplied assembled so should be just fit and use and should not need to be torque up

[Seaking]

if purchasing new hubs as well one would assume they would be supplied assembled so should be just fit and use and should not need to be torque up

Hi Phil when I purchased mine (ROBSPORT) that where supplied by CDD. I had to fit in two parts as the CV joint will not pass through the trailing arm. Made it nice and simple to fit. The lock but was just loosely fitted fitted.
cheers Glenn

[Motorsport Micky]

^ +1 The driveshaft flanges at the diff end of the driveshafts are too large to pass through the trailing arm, as are the hubs at the other end of the driveshaft, the hubs are only fitted loosely to the CV driveshafts if bought from the same supplier. To fit the driveshaft the hub central nut is undone and the hub taken off, and the driveshaft passed through the trailing arm from inside and then the hub is refitted and torqued up on the large central nut after the hub flange is attached to the brake back plate and trailing arm.
Of course unless we know which CV shafts are being fitted the above information could be incorrect...

Micky

PS: You might want to take the opportunity to fit uprated hub studs to the trailing arm whilst you have the hubs and flanges off. The hubs poxy 5/16th UNF threads in the trailing arm will often strip or come out as a pile of grey dust when you undo the 6 nuts holding the hub on. Loads of information on the forum on what/how to do it, search under trailing arms using the search box.

[022Dave]

PS: You might want to take the opportunity to fit uprated hub studs to the trailing arm whilst you have the hubs and flanges off. The hubs poxy 5/16th UNF threads in the trailing arm will often strip or come out as a pile of grey dust when you undo the 6 nuts holding the hub on. Loads of information on the forum on what/how to do it, search under trailing arms using the search box.

CDD do a superb stud fitting kit to upgrade the studs, which loans drilling guides, taps, drills etc., so you can do the work accurately with everything in situ. All you need to provide is the electric drill.

Dave

[DZP]

Hi,
Yes I have the CDD driveshafts and the hub nut is fitted loosely to allow the hub to be separated, so that it can be passed through the trailing arm.
Does anyone have advice on what torque setting to use for the hub nut please, as 214 lb/ft advised by the reseller seems very high?

P.S thanks for the tip about the hub studs.

Den

[Motorsport Micky]

Advice ? Yes TORQUE IT UP TO 214 LB FT

The stub axle and nut are bought and supplied to , a quality to take it, also you can adjust the bearings for end float in situ which you can’t on the Triumph standard offering, this is what your £900 for the pair hubs, driveshafts and bit’s buy you. 214 big ones to tighten.

Oh... and to short cut the ...” my torque wrench only does 120 lb ft “ go to Halfords and buy their 240 lb ft big boy torque wrench which comes down to 80 lb ft ( all from memory) should cost you about £85.

Micky

[new to this]

^ +1 The driveshaft flanges at the diff end of the driveshafts are too large to pass through the trailing arm, as are the hubs at the other end of the driveshaft, the hubs are only fitted loosely to the CV driveshafts if bought from the same supplier. To fit the driveshaft the hub central nut is undone and the hub taken off, and the driveshaft passed through the trailing arm from inside and then the hub is refitted and torqued up on the large central nut after the hub flange is attached to the brake back plate and trailing arm.
Of course unless we know which CV shafts are being fitted the above information could be incorrect...

Micky

PS: You might want to take the opportunity to fit uprated hub studs to the trailing arm whilst you have the hubs and flanges off. The hubs poxy 5/16th UNF threads in the trailing arm will often strip or come out as a pile of grey dust when you undo the 6 nuts holding the hub on. Loads of information on the forum on what/how to do it, search under trailing arms using the search box.

I've been doing the uprated studs to my car's, but encountered a problem on one car some one has been there before me, I think they must have fitted a metric heli coil,

It's only one thread that's not that clever, not a full thread thickness, not sure if there's enough metal left to fit 3/8 Inc heli coil, as fitting a heli coil you need to drill the hole bigger first

Thanks Dave

[Seaking]

Dave which side n/a or off side??? Might have a replacement in my stash of stag stuff .

Cheers Glenn

[Motorsport Micky]

I've been doing the uprated studs to my car's, but encountered a problem on one car some one has been there before me, I think they must have fitted a metric heli coil,

It's only one thread that's not that clever, not a full thread thickness, not sure if there's enough metal left to fit 3/8 Inc heli coil, as fitting a heli coil you need to drill the hole bigger first

Thanks Dave

So does it have a 8mm helicoil fitted ?

Counter intuitively the 3/8th UNC PARENT metal thread only needs a 5/16th (.312 thou) hole to tap into the trailing arm, the stripped hole is the correct size for the 3/8th UNC tap. Whereas the 5/16th UNF or UNC Helicoil needs a drilling size of .328 thou (it has a thread within a coarser outside thread which needs more material drilling out to take).
This area needs to be treated with care, the 6 holes are located with the 5/61th UNF nuts onto the 5/16 UNF threaded studs into the trailing arm, the material at the "throat" of the threads on a UNF profile isn't enough for 50 years of abuse and corrosion. The more threads you squeeze into a stud length (UNF) means the closer they have to be together which means aggregated more space in between the threads and a reduced thread throat and resistance to stripping. The coarser UNC studs use the same size hole and have more material at the throat (base) of the thread form, giving better resistance to stripping and corrosion. If somebody has badly fitted a helicoil they will have removed even more material and you may have problems.

Micky

[new to this]

Dave which side n/a or off side??? Might have a replacement in my stash of stag stuff .

Cheers Glenn

Glenn

It's the passengers side

Thanks Dave

[Seaking]

Dave will try and get to my store tomorrow and let you know .