Re-starting a RV8

[STAG1973]

I am going to trythe Rover SD1 V8 to roar again it has not run since 1996.

The engine turns very well by hand.

The spark plugs and oil show that it has been looked after well (brown ish colour).

The petrol tank is bone dry.

It has SU HIF6 carbs, which have no oil in dash pots

So where do i start ???? :shock::shock:

What should i replace, clean up and any problems i may encounter. :shock:

Any advice would be appreciated..

Adrian

[singapore stag]

imported post

Back to basics first,...change oil and filter, top up su's seals probably need replacing since oil have leaked out, clean plugs or renew, check points, Ht leads, inside dizzy, put in fresh petroland fuel filter,... then spark her up.

You will no doubt know after she starts or not what is required further if anything.

p.s Hope the car has been regularly hand cranked, if she is turning ok by hand then after oil change make sureto turn engine over a few times by hand to circulate oil.
p.p.s. The more experienced members will have more info....

[flying farmer]

imported post

If the fuel tank has evaporated dry, I would remove it and swill it out with some fresh petrol as there is often a good dose of sticky goo in the bottom. If it has been pumped or siphoned empty it will probably be ok.

When it comes to starting the engine after a long lay up I would remove all the spark plugs and wind the engine over on the starter until the oil light goes out. This takes the load off the crank and piston rings until there is some oil round the engine. If you leave the plugs attatched to the leads on top of the engine you should also see if thereis a good supply of sparks.

I have known carb float chamber needles stick after a lay up so check for overflowing. Cranking with the plugs out will prevent any flooding if this happens.

If all is well it should start up ok but I have often found, on all makes of engine, that it may take a while to get a steady idle, usually as a result of surface rust forming on valves and seats that have been left open, dropping the compression on these cylinders, but dont worry because a few miles of running soon polishes them up again.

It is also worth changing the oil again after a couple of hundred miles as sometimes the accumulated carbon deposits in the engine loosen over time and the fresh oil will fetch them off and plug the filter. The straight six engine that used to be in my TR had just this problem after a 16 year layup. I decided to change the oil after 500 miles and found that the filter had collapsed internally from the amount of crap that had been dislodged, fortunately without damaging anything.

Neil

[STAG1973]

imported post

Cheers Sukh and Neil,

What is the best oil for the Rover v8 ?

Adrian

[flying farmer]

imported post

Best sticking to a good quality 20w 50 like the stag, but I would just use some cheap stuff the first time if you intend to change the oil and filter like I suggested

Neil

[STAG1973]

imported post

flying farmer wrote:

Best sticking to a good quality 20w 50 like the stag, but I would just use some cheap stuff the first time if you intend to change the oil and filter like I suggested

Neil

Cheers Neil

[EFI Stag]

imported post

Hi Adrian,

with the rover v8 you will also have to prime the oil pump.

This is done by removing the distributor and turning the

oil pump peg. I made up a tool out of an old head stud

and attached it to an electric drill.The oil pump will not

prime by just turning over the engine even with oil filter

filled with fresh oil. Loads of info on v8 forum.co.uk

hope this is useful

cheers Martin

[mickjo]

imported post

Hi,

Ditto others, particularly EFI stag about the oil system, youcan use the dissy removal technique for the oil system, also you can also do this by removing the oil pump cover andpacking the pump with vaseline, DO NOT attempt to start your engine without doing either of the above or you will run for about 20 mins and ruin the engine. I know of at least 2 RV8 engines that have been ruined by not priming the oil system.There is also a syphoning technique if you have aremote oil cooler/filter. Again good advice to check with other web sites.

Have you connected a gauge or is itthe stagpressure switch light on the dash?

Let us know how you get on.

mick

[GDPR]

imported post

Dismantling the pump and stuffing it with Vaseline is my preferred method - it gives you a chance to check the pump internals especially if it hasn't run for 14 years, and it's one less gasket to leak as you have already replaced it...

Also remember that when you change the oil during services, never leave it drained and un-run for more than 30 mins or there is a chance that the oil will drain back from the pump and you'll have to prime the pump all over again....:shock:

[STAG1973]

imported post

Cheers guys for the advice on priming the oil pump i have had a read through RPI engineering `s website and a tub of Vaseline it is..

I will keep you all posted on my progress.

Adrian

[STAG1973]

imported post

After realizing the fuel pump dose not work and constructing a diy fuel tank, oil pump primed, oil changed, new plugs and hay presto she now purrs again, and settles down very nicley with good oil pressure..

Now it`s going on ebay...

Adrian

[Guest]

imported post

STAG1973 wrote:

Cheers Sukh and Neil,

What is the best oil for the Rover v8 ?

Adrian

Hi Ade, Rover used to use 15W/40 to get the hydraulic tappets pumped up quickly, sorry Neil, but I would still use good quality oil for the first start, it'll need it all the more, shame to throw away what might be good stuff, but better thanto risk running the bottom end. Martin.