stalling nearly

[richard1705]

driving around today all was well then when coming to a stop revs drop right down and down on the rev clock aswell as if to stall then I can give it some gas and all ok next lights all normal around 9 on the counter and then happens all the way home so was driving with choke out and it was ok
any suggestions were to start on this matter .seems to be small issue but obviously annoying
thanks
richard

[Phil S]

dashpot oil as a start, air leaks, then carbs

[richard1705]

ok thanks I, thinking the fuel regulator ive got the pressure gauge is not correct as it shows 2 psi even if not connected and the adjustment screw on the top of filter is all the way out
ii have ordered a new gauge will try to set that up maybe not enough fuel

[Phil S]

if it's ok at higher revs, = higher fuel consumption then it's not that

[new to this]

If the car was okay originally, but just started to stall,as Phil says check dashpot oil first

[richard1705]

I put oil in dashpots last week so that should be ok but noticed 1 of the diaframs a little pinched on the side there are about 6 months old no holes or splits in them

[sujitroy]

Is the dash pot oil mains purpose to slow down the rate at which the piston drops? I have similar problems as described. , but that's the first thing I check. Based on the engine stalling when I remove the oil cap, I dont think I have an air leak. Any way I don't want to hijack this thread.

[Phil S]

by removing the oil filler cap you are allowing more air into a sealed system, hence the stall or near stall.

[richard1705]

were are the most popular places for air leaks that would cause this
richard

[richard1705]

were are the popular places for air leaks that would cause this
richard

[richard1705]

it is also bit hard starting and runs lumpy for 30 secs then ok
have put some oil in dashpots with no difference

[marshman]

Check the following:

1. Oil filler cap for a good seal
2. Crank case breather pipes - the rubber pipe from the rear of the right hand rocker cover, this then goes to a T piece and then off to the two carbs. The hoses are rubber and do perish with age.
3. Check the seal around the base of the carb pedestal - this is the casting that the two carbs are bolted to which is then bolted to the inlet manifolds. It is secured by a single nut onto a threaded stud. There is an O ring seal between the pedestal and inlet manifold. If you can twist the carb assembly easily then check the nut is tight - don't over do it just make sure it is "pinched" up.

Those are three areas to check and are fairly quick and easy.

Your symptoms do seem like a weak mixture possibly caused by an air leak somewhere on the inlet side.

Roger

[richard1705]

thankyou I will be on it Monday morning if this rain ever stops

[andrewc]

I had a similar problem and found that each carb has 2 small O rings and they were both perished. I can't remember exactly where they were but I think the went on plugs or some such thing on the sides of the carbs. Replacing with new cured the problem. I hope this helps and I am sure someone who knows the carbs more intimately will be able to be more specific.
Andrew

[Lingen]

Richard.
The purpose of the oil in the dashpots is to restrict the speed at which the piston carrying the fuel metering needle can rise. It is there to create the richer mixture needed when accelerating. The loose piston on the
wire rod allows the piston to fall back undamped. So, a lack of oil in the dashpot will have no effect on the engine idling, but it will cause it to lose power on acceleration due to the weak mixture.
Mike.