FAO Kingpin

[m9fdb]

Would it be possible to borrow your heater valve removal tool that you made up ???

Iam struggling to find a bolt long enough to enable me to remove my valve - i will of course pay all the postage

thanks Darren

[V8 Rumbler]

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Would it be possible for me to borrow it after Darren?

Darren

[444John]

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I bought a packet of long screws from B+Q along with nuts that I screwed into my valve no problem. I think they may have been the long screws that are used to secure the normal household covers on most electrical sockets. I am due home from work on Friday and can send you a couple if you wish to try, otherwise remove one from your wall sockets. I haven't yet had time to do mine but I know a 19mm socket just fits over the width of the valve and I was going to use this along with said screws, nuts and washers to help pull the valve once I apply a bit of heat to the valve housing.

[William Hodson]

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Before going to all the trouble of making up a jig, or arranging to borrow one,the folowing may give you a quick solution.

• Drill a holein the middle of a 4 inch a piece of strip of steel (1 inch by 3mm).
• Undo the screw that atttaches thelever thing to the valve
• Remove the lever
• Use the screw (or a slightly longer one to allow for the thickness of the steel strip) to attach the strip of steel to the valve
• Pull nice and evenly onthe strip of steel and 'bobs you uncle', the valve comes out ....... or at least it did for me!

Also, to avoid the age old problem of that nasty little bit of wire that links the valve to the temparature control cable, I made up a new linkage using parts from a model shop. They sell spare ball jointsfor radio control cars made of annodised aluminium and nylon. Two of these and a piece of threaded rod make a robust and reliable linkage.

If you want a photo let me know.

[V8 Rumbler]

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William Hodson wrote:

Before going to all the trouble of making up a jig, or arranging to borrow one,the folowing may give you a quick solution.

• Drill a holein the middle of a 4 inch a piece of strip of steel (1 inch by 3mm).
• Undo the screw that atttaches thelever thing to the valve
• Remove the lever
• Use the screw (or a slightly longer one to allow for the thickness of the steel strip) to attach the strip of steel to the valve
• Pull nice and evenly onthe strip of steel and 'bobs you uncle', the valve comes out ....... or at least it did for me!

Also, to avoid the age old problem of that nasty little bit of wire that links the valve to the temparature control cable, I made up a new linkage using parts from a model shop. They sell spare ball jointsfor radio control cars made of annodised aluminium and nylon. Two of these and a piece of threaded rod make a robust and reliable linkage.

If you want a photo let me know.

sounds good to me and well worth a try- a photo would be good. Do you know what size the 'o' ring is? Also is it just a case of sanding the valve smooth and reassembly?
Darren

[m9fdb]

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my valve is seised solid and i doubt that method will work on it to be honest. When i tried the other method all it did was bend the washer as the valve just wasnt moving.

I thinking i am gonna have to take the plunge and take the whole heater unit out of the car and get it on the bench in the garage so i can get a bit of heat on it and hopefully free it off

[Arbman Al]

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V8 Rumbler wrote:

William Hodson wrote:

Before going to all the trouble of making up a jig, or arranging to borrow one, the folowing may give you a quick solution.

• Drill a hole in the middle of a 4 inch a piece of strip of steel (1 inch by 3mm).
• Undo the screw that atttaches the lever thing to the valve
• Remove the lever
• Use the screw (or a slightly longer one to allow for the thickness of the steel strip) to attach the strip of steel to the valve
• Pull nice and evenly on the strip of steel and 'bobs you uncle', the valve comes out ....... or at least it did for me!

Also, to avoid the age old problem of that nasty little bit of wire that links the valve to the temparature control cable, I made up a new linkage using parts from a model shop. They sell spare ball joints for radio control cars made of annodised aluminium and nylon. Two of these and a piece of threaded rod make a robust and reliable linkage.

If you want a photo let me know.

sounds good to me and well worth a try- a photo would be good. Do you know what size the 'o' ring is? Also is it just a case of sanding the valve smooth and reassembly?
Darren

Hi Darren

When I did mine I just polished it up with T-cut, it came up a treat

Rgds....Al

[444John]

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m9fdb wrote:

my valve is seised solid and i doubt that method will work on it to be honest. When i tried the other method all it did was bend the washer as the valve just wasnt moving.

I thinking i am gonna have to take the plunge and take the whole heater unit out of the car and get it on the bench in the garage so i can get a bit of heat on it and hopefully free it off

Like yours, mines is seized solid. I am going to be attempting to remove mine this weekend. I will be trying the heat in-situ though as the thought of removing the complete matrix frightens me. If I have any success, I'll let you know exactly what I did and what I made up to do it.

I got new seals from RobSport. Tried to find a new or 2nd hand valve but had no joy so just need to be extra careful I don't damage it trying to remove it.

[V8 Rumbler]

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444John wrote:

m9fdb wrote:

my valve is seised solid and i doubt that method will work on it to be honest. When i tried the other method all it did was bend the washer as the valve just wasnt moving.

I thinking i am gonna have to take the plunge and take the whole heater unit out of the car and get it on the bench in the garage so i can get a bit of heat on it and hopefully free it off

Like yours, mines is seized solid. I am going to be attempting to remove mine this weekend. I will be trying the heat in-situ though as the thought of removing the complete matrix frightens me. If I have any success, I'll let you know exactly what I did and what I made up to do it.

I got new seals from RobSport. Tried to find a new or 2nd hand valve but had no joy so just need to be extra careful I don't damage it trying to remove it.

Hi John do you know what size o ring is needed?

Darren

[444John]

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Not sure what size as I haven't been home due to work commitments since the new seals have arrived. I'm sure I saw the dimensions shown in another thread previously. I will do a search and see if I can find them.

[444John]

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Taken from a previous thread -

The specification for the "O" ring is 13/16" od, 5/8" id, 3/32 width.

[Seaking]

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it is also the same size as the ones on the top of thecarbs thats what peter at ld parts supplied me with and no leaks .

[floyd]

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Hi all, I to had a stuck heater valve that I did'nt think I'd ever remove but after a eureka moment in the bath today I removed the hose from the engine bay that feeds the valve (mine was stuck closed so this may not work if it's stuck open) blew the coolant from the pipe into the valve then sprayed WD40 into the pipe to free of the sticky valve behind the 'o' ring. It still took quite a tug to pull the cente from the valve but it did come out. I've been trying on and off to remove it for some months now so I reckon it's worth giving my method a go.
Best of luck,
Floyd

[m9fdb]

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i will try anything Floyd jsut so long as it comes out thw annoying thing is you are limited on room to work because of the location of it.

[Kingpin]

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I could not find a bolt long enough so I found one with the correct thread for the valve and then welded another too it to make it long enough.

The second bolt can be any diameter as long as it has a long thread and a nut to suit.