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    Fuse

    Just been out for a blast in the sunshine when I noticed, no fuel gauge,no tacho and no indicators!. Checked fuses and the 35amp ignition control fuse blown.Fitted another and straight away it glows and melted!!.Car starts ok and runs but obviously can't drive it without lights etc.Any obvious faults to check.
    Cheers mark

    #2
    may need to disconnect everything fed by the fuse then try a new fuse, if it blows you have a loom shorting out problem.
    if ok reconnect each item 1 at a time until the fuse blows.
    this can take a time so unless you fancy a good few hours upside down in the foot well, consider a local auto electrician who should have it sorted in a couple of hours max

    Comment


      #3
      you probably didn't notice all the smoke leaking out of the loom.

      Fuses stop the car catching fire so finding root cause should be a priority.

      Would strongly recommend an auto electrician or at least someone who understands car electrics has a look and lets you know the root cause

      Also make sure you have the correct fuse fitted, stag 35amp requirement is blow rating and not continuous rating. Easy to pick up a 35amp continuous rated fuse and put your loom at risk

      edited to add

      this is the correct 35amp fuse for a stag

      Order your Glass Fuse 35 Amp (Pack of 5) - GFS3035 ⛽ Low prices and fast, worldwide delivery ✈ British car experts ♚ Call ☎ 01522 568000 or ☎ 1-855-746-2767


      other suppliers are available
      Last edited by richardthestag; 27 October 2019, 17:45.
      Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

      Comment


        #4
        Ign Control Fuse is the main feed to the Voltage Stabilizer (for fuel & temp); Tacho; Indicators; Reversing Lights and Brake Lights. The main feed is green (but not to be confused with the green feed from the Screen Wiper Motor circuit feed (also includes the washer)). The speed your fuse is blowing indicates a dead short either in the wiring itself or inside a component. Also, as you say you watched the fuse blow, I'm assuming that you weren't operating any controls such as the brake pedal, or engaging reverse etc.

        Use your nose to see if you can smell any burning.

        First places I'd be looking at for a fault to earth would be:
        a) the back of the fusebox itself - visual
        b) the feed to the brake light switch (by the pedal)
        c) the indicator flasher unit (either behind the dash or underneath adjacent to the steering column). You could try removing the the feed wire (green) keeping it free from incidental contact and then try a new fuse (with Ign On). Note, according to the wiring diagram, the green wire feed to the reversing light switch on the gearbox is piggy-backed from here, so separate that before trying the fuse.
        d) the Tacho - again remove the green feed wire and keep from incidental contact; then try a new fuse etc
        e) the Voltage Stabiliser (behind the dash mounted on the back of the Speedo or Tacho) - again try removing the (dark) green wire feed, keeping clear etc and try a new fuse. (Note the feed to the Tacho is piggy-backed onto the feed to the V Stabiliser).
        f) the feed to the reverse light switch (see c) above) - bit difficult to access but can be disconnected at the flasher unit..

        Whilst you're trying fuses, I'd recommend using a smaller rated fuse (eg 10A) to limit further damage.

        If none of the above checks identifies the fault, it would indicate that the fault is in the wiring which is more time consuming - places to concentrate on are where there are any sharp bodywork edges.

        Let us know how you get on.

        Jonno

        White 1976 build ("Mk2") only a few mods

        Comment


          #5
          Rather than waste money and stress the wiring by repeatedly blowing fuses, a much safer way is to replace the fuse with a headlamp bulb which will shine at full brightness when there’s a short and various stages of brightness depending on current drawn. The headlamp bulb will limit the current to around 4.5amps and not cause any damage. If you’re not happy doing this, get the help of an auto electrician because as said earlier shorts like this cause fires.

          Comment


            #6
            Fault was found to be a loose wire from the voltage stabiliser, auto electrician found it. I missed it, doh.Whilst he was checking the wiring we noticed strange goings on with the interior lights, we have managed to get all the puddle lights and the console lights working but the t bar light is on and you press the switch it just dims !.Found a good post on here about this subject so will have another go when it stops raining.

            Comment


              #7
              ",,,,,will have another go when it stops raining. …"

              that will be next year then.


              Alan

              Comment

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