Temperature gauge and Top hose questions

[Jabba]

Hi Guy's,

As I'm the new owner of my Stag, I thought I'd work through a few things before using the car. It has already had fitted a supergill radiator and a Stagweber header tank.

The first weekend I fitted a Smith's dual temp and oil pressure gauge (capillary ) and pleased to say oil pressure at idle when cold is 40 then drops to just over 25 when hot.

Last weekend I decided to reverse flush the cooling system which also included clearing the block drain holes and fitting a new viscous coupling for the fan whilst I had the radiator out. I also fitted a new 82 degree thermostat with the jiggle pin, from Tony Hart.

I have filled the system with 10 litres of coolant (33% mix) and have run the engine for the best part of an hour, revving it slowly now again to ensure coolant flow (heater on hot). Everything seems to be ok, the only leak I had was the where the top hose connects to the thermostat housing, just needed the jubliee clip nipping up.

I have noticed a big difference in the cooling fan, the new coupling is definitly working alot better than the old one. The old one I could spin the fan nearly a full revolution before it stopped, the new one only a couple of blade widths at the most.

I have a couple of questions, the first is that the temperature gauge now sits halfway between C and N, is this ok. The other question is that when the engine is turned off, the top hose feels as if its empty even though the header tank has coolant in it, is this normal. When running and I'm guessing upto temperature. I can feel resistance when squeezing it and its at the same temperature as the other hoses.

Many thanks

Craig

[marshman]

Temp sounds "normal" to me - especially at this time of year with an 82 deg stat. Mine runs just above 1/3rd in the summer now that I have removed the kenlowe fan that was obstructing a large area of the radiator. The temp gauge may not be that accurate anyway - is the sensor matched to your new gauge?

When the engine is cold have you removed the filler plug in the top of the rad to make sure it is topped right up - or is the bleed pipe to the header plumbed in there? - I still have the original expansion bottle but do know it depends on how and where your header tank is plumbed in as to whether any air gets trapped right at the top of the rad. The top hose will be quite squashy when cold as there is no pressure in the system.

If it looks OK then go for a proper drive, if there is a real problem then the temp will soon start to climb.

Roger

[Jabba]

Hi Roger, the temperature gauge is a capillary one, its a fixed sensor with the solid wire going back to the gauge. The previous owner fitted a Stagweber header tank that plumbs into the top of the radiator above the top hose connection. I forgot to mention that the car is currently up on ramps at the front, this was to allow me to remove the block drain bolts and to also aid when refilling the coolant system. I wonder if it would make any difference having the car level with regards to the air in the top hose

Craig

[Stocky]

The previous owner fitted a Stagweber header tank that plumbs into the top of the radiator above the top hose connection.

Where does the lower/larger hose from the tank plumb into?

[marshman]

Possibly, but I would have thought being on ramps probably helps the air come out, though I have never had issues refilling the system with the car sitting level, there are a lot of cars far worse than the stag for getting airlocks. When you let the car off the ramps check it again before going for a drive. I sure it will be fine.

Roger

[Jabba]

I'll finish off servicing the engine and box first then I can test it. Thanks Roger

Craig

[mike@thenook]

Hi Craig,

I've had the capillary type for years and it always sits at mid point between C & H, I've an 88 thermostat.
The viscous not being 100% does explain why when it was idling when we viewed it, the temp was sitting slightly higher than it should, it might also be the reason he had a Kenlowe fitted to compensate.
Your oil pressure sounds fine too.
I'd take it for a short run when you're finished then top it up again if needed from the rad top.
Sounds like you are nearly there and will be off enjoying it soon!

Cheers

Mike

[Jabba]

Hi Mike,

Good to hear from you. Yes, the temperature was over half way when we viewed the car. I noticed that the kenlowe doesn't cut in since I replaced the viscous, as you say, its doing its job properly now.

There's a few jobs still to do before I get it on the road, I noticed that there is something loose on the N/S front suspension, it could be a wheel bearing but I have still got to sort it. When we viewed the car we noticed the rear had poly bushes, the front has all been changed to poly too, saves me a job.

I just want to go over the car properly, just to make sure there are no issues before I start driving it, me being careful that's all. I've got a few jobs lined up in the spring, both front floor pans have been sheeted over, so I want to cut the sheets and the old pans out and weld in some new ones. Theres a couple of places on the body too, both rear wings, just behind the doors where it meets the sills need replacement panels and also, as we noticed, the O/S rear wing, rear lower panel under the bumper needs replacing. Once I've got those done and anything else I might find, I'm going to get the car resprayed. Hopefully it'll be sorted then, but as we know with any classic, there's always something else to do.

Thanks

Craig

[mike@thenook]

Sounds like a plan Craig, it’s certainly a fine base to work from to what eventually will be a lovely Stag!