Tenerife Stag Problems (2019/20)

[Tdm]

This new Thread is a follow on from the 2 previous Stag Carburretor Choices Threads.

To recap, in 2018 I was having problems with my original Stromberg Carbs, and was asking what I should do – have them re-furbished or replace them with an alternative (Weber or Holby), and in the end in November 2018 discarded the Strombergs and ordered a Stag Weber.

After fitting the Weber all seemed to be well at first, but then I started getting noticable oil leaks both in the “Vee”, and around the timing chain cover/sump area, that is not to say I hadn’t had any oil leaks with the Strombergs fitted.

Also had other problems such as the Starter Motor failing, and had to have the car taken to a local garage on a recovery truck, who took some considerable time fitting a new Starter, removing & re-furbishing the water pump, and trying to cure (unsuccessfully) the oil leaks.

So later this year (2019) I attempted to fix the oil leaks myself, removing the Inlet Manifold and water pump cover, and ftting new gaskets and (Wellseal) sealant, and tightening what bolts I could to the recommended pressures, and also had to change the Distributor base plate and Disk, and sort out a few other faults I found.

In restarting the car for the 1^st time a few weeks ago, it ran very roughly, was making a bit of a screaching noise, and was leaking coolant from one of the Inlet Manifold gaskets (now cured). A further attempt earlier today working on the Carb mixture and timing got the engine running much better, but the the noise from arround the fan area rose in intensity coupled with a vibrastion, indicating the viscous coupling had now failed, so have just ordered a replacement.

Won’t be able to much more work on the car engine until the new part arrives, except for putting the front of the car on axle stands, and starting work removing the grill and radiator then the failed viscous coupling. I also whilst waiting may take a look at the boot lid which has come off its rh runner and is no longer closing properly.

Will make more posts when there is something new to report on, and also close the “Stag Carburretor Choices Part 2” Thread.

Terry

[Tdm]

I have today started preparing for fitting a new Viscous Coupling.
Got all the tools I will need ready and put them in the car, then removed the front grill, and the fan guard, and loossened the bottom hose and started draining the radiator prior to removal. Also did a bit of work on the boot lid to try and get it to close properly again..

Can't do any more tomorrow as putting up Xmas decorations together with other owners in our Reception area, but might do a bit more preparaty work on the Stag on Monday. Any further real progress will depend on when the replacement VC arrives in Tenerife.

[Tdm]

Did manage to do some more work on the Stag today, removing the radiator, but I can't get the crankshaft bolt undone!
Fastened a chain round the pully as I did the last time I had the bolt off, held in place by threading it through an engine lifting lug, but this time the pully slips each time I try to lever the bolt off. Haven't got an Impact wrench which I am told would be the best way to loosen it. Can anyone suggest another way of holding the pully still enough for me to undo the bolt so I can then remove the failed viscous coupling?. Would a strong rope round the pully be a better bet?

Any suggestions would be most welcome, thanks.

[new to this]

Terry

you could put a spanner or socket on the bolt head tuck the other end under the chassis leg ,then turn the engine over on the ignition switch quick one turn only

Dave

[mike@thenook]

That's the way I do it to Dave

[DJT]

Is yours a manual? If so, put it in gear, handbrake fully on. That worked when I did it on my manual Stag. Couldn’t do it that way with my auto Stag, but a 24v impact wrench shifted it. With your chain in place, it should hold it enough to undo it.

[Jeff]

I managed it on my auto but didn't turn the engine over like Dave says. Trying to think how I stopped the engine from turning. Pretty sure just a lump hammer on the stilsons.

[Jeff]

Did manage to do some more work on the Stag today, removing the radiator, but I can't get the crankshaft bolt undone!
Fastened a chain round the pully as I did the last time I had the bolt off, held in place by threading it through an engine lifting lug, but this time the pully slips each time I try to lever the bolt off. Haven't got an Impact wrench which I am told would be the best way to loosen it. Can anyone suggest another way of holding the pully still enough for me to undo the bolt so I can then remove the failed viscous coupling?. Would a strong rope round the pully be a better bet?

Any suggestions would be most welcome, thanks.

Pretty sure it was Russ that told you about the impact wrench. If you are up to it, remove the starter motor and wedge something in the flywheel, another Russ recommendation.

[marshman]

As Dave (newtothis)says use a spanner on the crankbolt and resting on the chassis leg - extend the spanner with a bit of tube if it is not long enough, and turn the starter, worth a try. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE COIL TO ENSURE THE ENGINE DOESN'T FIRE. Only do very short bursts on the starter!

Failing that, find a friendly plumber and ask to borrow a 2ft pair of stilsons to hold the pulley - put them behind the main pulley wheel on the shaft of the pulley - if that makes sense.

Removing the starter would be a last resort as a) it is a bit fiddly getting to the top bolt and b) difficult to wedge something into the flywheel teeth and hold it there on your own whilst trying to undo the crank bolt.

Roger

[jakesmig]

Take out a spark plug and feed string / rope into the cylinder until you have enough trapped between the piston and cylinder head to stop the engine turning, keeping one end out of the hole, then undo the bolt.
If you are undoing the bolt the piston should be slightly after TDC on the compression stroke, if tighteming, slightly before. If the piston is 1/4 -1/2 " below TDC that should be enough.
Make sure it is at TDC on the compression stroke, closed valves will make sure none get bent.


John.

[Jeff]

As Dave (newtothis)says use a spanner on the crankbolt and resting on the chassis leg - extend the spanner with a bit of tube if it is not long enough, and turn the starter, worth a try. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE COIL TO ENSURE THE ENGINE DOESN'T FIRE. Only do very short bursts on the starter!

Failing that, find a friendly plumber and ask to borrow a 2ft pair of stilsons to hold the pulley - put them behind the main pulley wheel on the shaft of the pulley - if that makes sense.

Removing the starter would be a last resort as a) it is a bit fiddly getting to the top bolt and b) difficult to wedge something into the flywheel teeth and hold it there on your own whilst trying to undo the crank bolt.

Roger

More or less what I said, but yes, I used the Stilsons on the pulley under the chassis then hit the socket wrench with the hammer, worked a treat!

[richardthestag]

More or less what I said, but yes, I used the Stilsons on the pulley under the chassis then hit the socket wrench with the hammer, worked a treat!

same here, normally the flick of the starter trick works for me. One car however resisted all attempts. Your method above did it but with a 3ft scaffold bar over my breaker bar on the crank bolt. Even when it did shift it didn't go with a crack more of a 2mm shift so I repositioned and once I had wrestled the damn thing one full turn it started to shift more easily. Some anglo saxon profanity might have filled the air around me

I suspect that some tall had used glue on the threads

[Tdm]

Thanks for all the suggestions fellas, It will be dark here in half an hour or so (earliest it ever gets dark here is 6.30pm), so will have another go tomorrow, although I am supposedly now helping put out all the Xmas decorations in the garden and grounds (did the Reception area today), and I am the only one who knows how to wire up all the electrical pieces (Santa Claus, Rudulf, several Xmas Trees etc.), and where it all goes. If can get that sorted in good time, can then turn my attention to the Stag.

[Mark Serj]

Or if you can get sufficient access to the front, find a mobile mechanic with an air ratchet wrench and that will see it off no bother

[Tdm]

It's off (the vc that is) and the proof can be seen in the pic below, wedged the long handle attached to the socket on the crank nut beneath part of the chassis (as a couple of people suggested), removed the lead from the coil, and switched on the engine and it freed it. To DJT I can't see any identifying marks on it anywhere at present to see whether it is an original or not - where are they?
Just a matter now of waiting for it's replacement
.
IMG_9618.JPG