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im taking the engine out of my stag on saturday, ive never done it before so i just wondered if anyone who has done it had any useful tips which i can take into consideration to make it easier.
thanks
jamie
Get the rear of the car as high as you can, then the engine will come out a lot more horizontally. This is if you do engine and box together which is probably easier.
If taking it out in one lump, be very careful with the engine lifting eyes. These are bolted into 40+ year old aluminium. Check the threads are all sound, helicoiling if necessary, and the bolts are torqued correctly. If in doubt, sling the unit using new nylon lifting slings of a suitable capacity. You don’t want the lifting assembly to fail when it is mid lift.
Dave
1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.
If you intend only to remove the engine and not the gearbox it is a fairly straight forward job until you come to four bolts between the gearbox and the engine which are both hidden behind the cylinder heads and party into the gearbox tunnel so a bent spanner will be very useful. Apparently it is easier to remove the heads first - or it would be if the head studs will come out easily, which they probably wont.
If you remove the engine and gearbox together raise the rear of the car at least two feet then the engine/box comes out more horizontally. You will need an engine levelling lifting beam, when you fit this ensure the levelling screw is at the rear(?) of the adjustment with shorter front strap; then once you start to swing the engine vertically there is more adjustment in the levelling beam than you will get from starting in a central position. I have also seen the crank handle removed from the engine levelling beam and replaced with a welded-on nut as the handle will foul the hoist and you will loose the last few inches of adjustment to swing the engine and box almost vertically, but a socket and extension bar can reach a welded nut more easily for cranking.
I have used both methods on my car working alone and both have equal benefits and problems.
Incidentally if you are using an engine hoist make sure it is a large (tall) one as the shorter ones might not have enough vertical lift if taking engine and gearbox together - also ensure any levelling beam is fitted very close to the hoist- do not waste vertical space (?). Just in case, ensure you have two suitable blocks / stands available as you may have to remove both front wheels and lower the front of the car to gain another 4-6" of height.
Whilst the engine and gearbox are out it is a great time to replace the rubber handbrake gaiter.
If you intend only to remove the engine and not the gearbox it is a fairly straight forward job until you come to four bolts between the gearbox and the engine which are both hidden behind the cylinder heads and party into the gearbox tunnel so a bent spanner will be very useful. Apparently it is easier to remove the heads first - or it would be if the head studs will come out easily, which they probably wont.
If you remove the engine and gearbox together raise the rear of the car at least two feet then the engine/box comes out more horizontally. You will need an engine levelling lifting beam, when you fit this ensure the levelling screw is at the rear(?) of the adjustment with shorter front strap; then once you start to swing the engine vertically there is more adjustment in the levelling beam than you will get from starting in a central position. I have also seen the crank handle removed from the engine levelling beam and replaced with a welded-on nut as the handle will foul the hoist and you will loose the last few inches of adjustment to swing the engine and box almost vertically, but a socket and extension bar can reach a welded nut more easily for cranking.
I have used both methods on my car working alone and both have equal benefits and problems.
Incidentally if you are using an engine hoist make sure it is a large (tall) one as the shorter ones might not have enough vertical lift if taking engine and gearbox together - also ensure any levelling beam is fitted very close to the hoist- do not waste vertical space (?). Just in case, ensure you have two suitable blocks / stands available as you may have to remove both front wheels and lower the front of the car to gain another 4-6" of height.
Whilst the engine and gearbox are out it is a great time to replace the rubber handbrake gaiter.
Jamie, I recently pulled just the engine on my Stag as well. The easiest way I found to get to the bellhousing bolts is, get nylon lifting straps. After removing the usual suspects (exhaust, throttle cables, coil wires, etc) hook up the lifting straps to your cherrypicker. Then I dropped the front sub-frame member; no need to remove, just drop it an inch or so. This allows you lower the engine giving you easy working space to all the bellhousing bolts.
I wonder how many owners have the luxury of a cherry picker never mind an engine hoist
Since Jamie is pulling his engine, I think it's fair to assume they have access to a cherrypicker and/or hoist. Otherwise, they have far more pressing issues.
Lol, I nearly commented but thought someone would come in with the explanation. Now what could I do with a cherry picker and a bunch of christmas lights that need to come down.
Lol, I nearly commented but thought someone would come in with the explanation. Now what could I do with a cherry picker and a bunch of christmas lights that need to come down.
I've wondered this a couple of time - if the heads are off, would it be possible to lower the engine between the chassis rails, is the gap wide enough? I guess not, because I've never heard of anyone doing it that way.
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