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    Engine removal

    im taking the engine out of my stag on saturday, ive never done it before so i just wondered if anyone who has done it had any useful tips which i can take into consideration to make it easier.
    thanks
    jamie

    #2
    Get the rear of the car as high as you can, then the engine will come out a lot more horizontally. This is if you do engine and box together which is probably easier.

    Comment


      #3
      If taking it out in one lump, be very careful with the engine lifting eyes. These are bolted into 40+ year old aluminium. Check the threads are all sound, helicoiling if necessary, and the bolts are torqued correctly. If in doubt, sling the unit using new nylon lifting slings of a suitable capacity. You don’t want the lifting assembly to fail when it is mid lift.
      Dave
      1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

      Comment


        #4
        If you intend only to remove the engine and not the gearbox it is a fairly straight forward job until you come to four bolts between the gearbox and the engine which are both hidden behind the cylinder heads and party into the gearbox tunnel so a bent spanner will be very useful. Apparently it is easier to remove the heads first - or it would be if the head studs will come out easily, which they probably wont.

        If you remove the engine and gearbox together raise the rear of the car at least two feet then the engine/box comes out more horizontally. You will need an engine levelling lifting beam, when you fit this ensure the levelling screw is at the rear(?) of the adjustment with shorter front strap; then once you start to swing the engine vertically there is more adjustment in the levelling beam than you will get from starting in a central position. I have also seen the crank handle removed from the engine levelling beam and replaced with a welded-on nut as the handle will foul the hoist and you will loose the last few inches of adjustment to swing the engine and box almost vertically, but a socket and extension bar can reach a welded nut more easily for cranking.

        I have used both methods on my car working alone and both have equal benefits and problems.

        Incidentally if you are using an engine hoist make sure it is a large (tall) one as the shorter ones might not have enough vertical lift if taking engine and gearbox together - also ensure any levelling beam is fitted very close to the hoist- do not waste vertical space (?). Just in case, ensure you have two suitable blocks / stands available as you may have to remove both front wheels and lower the front of the car to gain another 4-6" of height.

        Whilst the engine and gearbox are out it is a great time to replace the rubber handbrake gaiter.


        Alan
        Last edited by barkerwilliams; 1 January 2020, 12:26.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by barkerwilliams View Post
          If you intend only to remove the engine and not the gearbox it is a fairly straight forward job until you come to four bolts between the gearbox and the engine which are both hidden behind the cylinder heads and party into the gearbox tunnel so a bent spanner will be very useful. Apparently it is easier to remove the heads first - or it would be if the head studs will come out easily, which they probably wont.

          If you remove the engine and gearbox together raise the rear of the car at least two feet then the engine/box comes out more horizontally. You will need an engine levelling lifting beam, when you fit this ensure the levelling screw is at the rear(?) of the adjustment with shorter front strap; then once you start to swing the engine vertically there is more adjustment in the levelling beam than you will get from starting in a central position. I have also seen the crank handle removed from the engine levelling beam and replaced with a welded-on nut as the handle will foul the hoist and you will loose the last few inches of adjustment to swing the engine and box almost vertically, but a socket and extension bar can reach a welded nut more easily for cranking.

          I have used both methods on my car working alone and both have equal benefits and problems.

          Incidentally if you are using an engine hoist make sure it is a large (tall) one as the shorter ones might not have enough vertical lift if taking engine and gearbox together - also ensure any levelling beam is fitted very close to the hoist- do not waste vertical space (?). Just in case, ensure you have two suitable blocks / stands available as you may have to remove both front wheels and lower the front of the car to gain another 4-6" of height.

          Whilst the engine and gearbox are out it is a great time to replace the rubber handbrake gaiter.


          Alan


          thanks for your advice it will be very useful

          Comment


            #6
            Jamie, I recently pulled just the engine on my Stag as well. The easiest way I found to get to the bellhousing bolts is, get nylon lifting straps. After removing the usual suspects (exhaust, throttle cables, coil wires, etc) hook up the lifting straps to your cherrypicker. Then I dropped the front sub-frame member; no need to remove, just drop it an inch or so. This allows you lower the engine giving you easy working space to all the bellhousing bolts.
            John

            Comment


              #7
              I wonder how many owners have the luxury of a cherry picker never mind an engine hoist
              John
              1978 Stag Brooklands Green

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by JOHNS View Post
                I wonder how many owners have the luxury of a cherry picker never mind an engine hoist
                Since Jamie is pulling his engine, I think it's fair to assume they have access to a cherrypicker and/or hoist. Otherwise, they have far more pressing issues.
                John

                Comment


                  #9
                  splitting hairs, but a cherry picker is not for lifting engines, but an engine hoist is.

                  (ex cherry picker manager)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I think Its just a transatlantic thing. Over here the term cherry picker is a little looser than UK



                    looks like an engine hoist!!
                    Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

                    www.terryhunt.co.uk

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by trunt View Post
                      I think Its just a transatlantic thing. Over here the term cherry picker is a little looser than UK



                      looks like an engine hoist!!
                      Divided by a common language!!

                      You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                      This gallery has 1 photos.

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                        #12
                        Lol, I nearly commented but thought someone would come in with the explanation. Now what could I do with a cherry picker and a bunch of christmas lights that need to come down.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by PJM Stag View Post
                          Lol, I nearly commented but thought someone would come in with the explanation. Now what could I do with a cherry picker and a bunch of christmas lights that need to come down.
                          Just buy this https://www.amazon.com/Protection-5D...8093008&sr=8-4 and the cherrypicker. Then when it's time to pull the engine, you already own one.
                          John

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by RNF View Post
                            Just buy this https://www.amazon.com/Protection-5D...8093008&sr=8-4 and the cherrypicker. Then when it's time to pull the engine, you already own one.
                            That should do the job nicely

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I've wondered this a couple of time - if the heads are off, would it be possible to lower the engine between the chassis rails, is the gap wide enough? I guess not, because I've never heard of anyone doing it that way.

                              Richard
                              Richard
                              Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, Mo/d.

                              Comment

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