Gearbox removal

[Markvh]

Gearbox is off.
Didn't use the high lift gearbox jack in the end. Felt too frightened with it high up and not really having a feel for the weight or balance of the 'box. So connected everything up again and lowered the car down and used a trolley jack and timber blocks on the floor. 'Box came away fine but rotated and bellhousing rested on the slave cylinder seal and the slave cylinder push rod got in the way so I took it off then pushed the rod hard back in and tied it in with a cable zip tie afterwards. The box has also nicked off a bit of paint in a couple of places, so some touching up needed.
Had to take the o/s front pipe off in the end because the bracket for the bobbin was in the way. Ended up shearing a manifold stud so another job to do there. also had to remove the oil filter to get the pipe manifold bolts off.

I was wondering if it's worth having a couple of lengths of smooth steel rod to put through the bellhousing to flywheel housing to help keep everything in line when removing/reinstalling the gearbox? Something like an alignment spike that steelwork erectors use.
Anyway, thanks for all your help on this topic and by private messages. It is greatly appreciated. Now how do I get the damn thing back on?
Regards,
Mark.

[jbuckl]

Alignment spike = podger or podging spanner in heavy lifting terminology. Yes, useful, but a sturdy posi-drive screwdriver can be used too

[Markvh]

More questions
The gearbox rubber mounts on the rear subframe:
On one side the rubber mount has a stud projecting out at both ends to be fixed to the subframe. The other mount only has one stud projecting from one end of the rubber mount which fixes to the top bracket. The bottom side of the mount sits on a large flat washer bolted to the lower frame with a domed bolt for the rubber to sit on. The rubber mount is solid rubber at the bottom so looks like it was made like this.
Is this correct because the parts manual shows the same part number of 150403 for each side of the J Type o/d?

I noticed that the gearbox was tilted over at a noticeable angle. ie the o/d sump plate is at an angle to the ground. Is this normal?

Thanks,
Mark.

[DJT]

I would say that the mount has failed as the stud on one end has come unbonded.

[flying farmer]

One mount is knackered as they are both the same.

The box is tipped towards the driver, made getting the gearstick to go in the correct place in my Stag engined TR a bit of a challenge.

Don't know quite why they did this unless they wanted a slightly higher oil level in the gearbox.

Neil

[Markvh]

Hi All,
I've finally fitted the new clutch and all associated bits. Refitted the gerarbox and new speedo cable. I've only been out for a short test run but it all feels superb. The gear change is smooth and the clutch now bites higher up, it used to bite just above the floor at maximum clutch depression. Hope it all stays good when we can get out again.
Overdrive is still disconnected as wires broke and I need to finely adjust the gear lever as it throws over the gate to the reverse side too easily but struggles to pull down into reverse. Will do that later, as while the console is off I'm going to try and sort the heater control valve cable and all that entails and refit the demister ducts and put in new dash and cluster leds at the same time. (Is it worthwhile getting led brake/tail lights, indicators and relays, side lights and reverse lights as well?)
I'd like to thank everyone for their advice, it's comforting to know that there are people out there who can help and support when there's only me in the garage.
Thanks all again, and stay safe in these times.
Mark.