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    Timing Chains Replacement

    Hi All,
    The time has come to change the timing chains on the Stag. The tell tale rattle on start up has got worse so i'm thinking of having a go myself. I did get a price of £800, depending on what they find, which included an oil/filter change and fresh anti freeze.
    I have seen the Rimmers video and looked through the forums to get a feel for whats ahead but I have a couple of questions for all you experienced stag owners which i would be very grateful if you would help answer.

    1. Rimmers sell a complete kit, both standard and German, which seems to cover all the basics. Does any one have any recent experience of quality? I understand LD Parts are very good but any other ideas would be gratefully received.

    2. I'm planning on using the German chains. Is this the preferred solution?. It seems the sort of job you only want to do once!

    3. I will need to some pullers. Can anyone suggest a good quality make or is there not a lot to choose between them?

    4. Any hints and tips gratefully received!

    Many thanks

    Mal


    #2
    Happy with the iwis chains in my engine. I took a look at 25k , no visible wear on chains or sprockets so i left it all as is.

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      #3
      Just purchased a set of iwis chains from Peter LD Parts arrived next day

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        #4
        I only needed a puller to draw the pulley off the crank, it did not need much pulling but it needed quite a large span beam puller (two legged).

        Check the existing timing before you remove the old chains, and remove the distributor cap so you can watch the arm rotate to cylinder 2 for TDC.

        Careful with handling the tensioners as they are just poised on a hair trigger to scatter themselves into dark inaccessible recesses of the garage.

        Remember, remember, remember to stuff rag into the open end of the sump as soon as you remove the alloy timing chain cover it is especially shaped to capture any falling items and deliver them to the lower sump where they cannot be reached. - particularly the cylindrical supporting posts for the chain guides.

        Alan



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          #5
          I have just done this job, I asked Peter at LD to put together a kit of everything I might need, and he did, including IWIS chains and all sprockets, nuts, bolts, lock washers etc..

          Don't forget you will need a sump gasket (to replace the front section only).

          I did not need a puller for the crank pulley - it tapped off with a rubber mallet no problem. 18" stilsons are what you need to get the bolt undone.

          I had one (long!) bolt corroded into the timing cover, that was fun, put ceramic paste on them all when I rebuilt it.
          Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

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            #6
            hi Mal
            I am in upminster and have a hydraulic puller you are more than welcome to borrow if you want.
            Phil

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              #7
              You have to be very careful using a puller on the front pulley as you are pulling on the outer part which is only held to the inner by bonded rubber.

              A large crowbar and suitable blocks of wood against the timing cover are my weapons of choice for this job as the force can be applied to the inside of the pulley. Often as not they come off pretty easily anyway.

              Neil
              Neil
              TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

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                #8
                Originally posted by flying farmer View Post
                A large crowbar and suitable blocks of wood against the timing cover are my weapons of choice for this job as the force can be applied to the inside of the pulley. Often as not they come off pretty easily anyway.

                Neil
                Agreed with this, it's not a difficult part of the job. Undoing the crankshaft bolt is probably the hardest bit.

                Also agree with all the above about IWIS chains. Don't just buy 'German" chains, they could be made of any old cheese, but IWIS are stamped on each link and are the real top notch. Mine have been on there for about 50,000 pretty hard miles and show no sign of wear. Next event is the HERO Challenge One in March and I'll not be worrying about timing chains.
                Richard
                Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, Mo/d.

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                  #9
                  One thing worth concidering is that if you get chains that can stretch (iwis are pre stretched i believe ) as they stretch they will wear the sprockets as the link centers are now greater

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                    #10
                    Thanks all for your advice, much appreciated.

                    Phil, I may take you up on your kind offer although I could probably do with a set anyway. Since retiring I have lost access to my "borrowed" tools from work!

                    I'm sure I'll be back soon for more help and advice!

                    Mal

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                      #11
                      Made a note about IWIS chains, in case my current unhealthy noise coming from the right hand timing chain area means I too will now need to change my chains.
                      22,000 miles since I last changed them but also 15 years ago, and was hoping that was not going to be another thing I need to do as have had enough problems recently (see my Tenerife Stag ProblemsThread).

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                        #12
                        I use an endoscope now to check the crankshaft sprockets since finding one that was nearly worn out last year. Poking the camera down the front of the engine every time I change the oil (about four times a year for my car) gives me peace of mind. I keep photos of the tensioner extension position to compare against previous ones too.

                        Richard
                        Richard
                        Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, Mo/d.

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                          #13
                          Can anyone confirm the crankshaft pulley bolt size? Can't seem to find it anywhere and i need to order one for the impact wrench.
                          Terry - I have followed your thread and am suffering similar problems with oil leaks following the Weber install but I'm hoping that a new sump and timing chain gasket may help.
                          Richard - good idea about the camera, could do with checking my cylinders as well.

                          Mal

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                            #14
                            Just found out its 5/8" thanks to the Triumph workshop manual. Should have looked there first.....

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Thought it was 15/16ths, but could be wrong.
                              Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

                              Comment

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